"Princess-Cut" stone setting with greater details - 12 photos

 This 'repeated essay' will be given to you to have a better understanding on "How to set a Princess-Cut stone in a 4-claw Engagement ring". I will explain every aspect and the many suggestions in completing this exercise.

 I never write "Do this or do that, but WHY you should do it without harming your stones".

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 The first step is to have every claw at the same height, even if it has to be filed down with your emery disk.

At approximately 1/2 the distance from the tip of the claw, a round bur will make a hole. This is where the corner of the stone will be situated.

 

 The next step is to use a Bud-shaped bur of approximately #006  => #007 in size. This bur will cut at a 45 degree angle on the inside of the lower bezel. This is to remove any metal that the stone might be touching.

 

 

This is another closer photo of the bur starting to cut the bezel at 45 degree angle.

  From the claw hole there MUST BE ANOTHER SERIES OF CUTS. These cuts are for the edge of the Pavilion of the stone to rest against. 

 THERE IS SO MUCH CUTTING IN BEING DONE FOR THIS SQUARE STONE. Just so much mind-boggling action taking place, just be so careful.

 On both sides of the one hole, the must be TWO MORE SIDE CUTS, why? This is where the "Girdle-Facet" must against the claw.

 For each claw, all of the facets of the stone now have FOUR 'contact spots'. How many minutes of frustration are needed to prepare for this setting? MANY!

 The four claws need now to be extended outward to capture the large stone. This only a temporary step as we need to have a greater access to the stone in the claw-setting.

 FINALLY, the stone is being placed into the '4-claw basket'. PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE SQUARE STONE IS SITTING FLAT AND NOT TWISTED.

 Always be aware that the four Pavilion STONE FACETS are not touching the inside of the Bezel.

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 When tightening the four claws NEVER, NEVER TIGHTEN THE TWO CLAWS 'CORNER TO THE OPPOSING CORNER'. There must never be any pressure put on the stone, or breakage will occur.

 To be safe, just tighten two side claws and repeat all around the 4-claw head.

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 Let's continue on further, have your Emery (#220 grit) disk keep the claws at the same height.

 With your large 77B Cup-Bur start rounding the claws. The selected BUR MUST ALWAYS BE LARGER THAN THE TIP OF THE CLAW.

 

 Never, never hold the bur perpendicular to the stone, why not, you ask? 

Your bur will come in contact to the fragile stone (Emerald, Amethyst or a stone with less than 6 on the Mohs scale). Always hold the bur-teeth away so the 'rotating teeth' won't touch the stone.

 If you wish to use your Tapered Pumice wheel of #180 grit to do any claw-cleaning. Do this now as your cloth polishing-wheel will ruin all of your hard labours in rounding the sharp edges on your "Piece of Wearable Art".

               HOORAY, THE 'PRINCESS STONE' IS NOW SET & COMPLETED! 

      This stone setting is about 9 out of 10, on the Difficulty Scale.