ONLY 'END BEZELS' (Securing & Hammering) -19 photos.

 This is not an exercise but of a 'technique'. It is one of the most important features of setting square stones in 'end bezels'.

 The difficulty is "Rated at 15, out of 10 on my Difficulty Scale" as this is not for the 'beginner'.

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What tools are required to set these Princess-Cut stones?

 I suggest using a "Reciprocating Hammer" with the hammering tension set to a "hitting speed" of SLOW. Being careful is an understatement!!!

 We have stones sitting against each other. I always say "Speed Kills"  and this is where doing the stone setting quickly, could severely damage or break the stones.

The stones must be prepared well in advance. Each stone has a square Pavilion that needs to be carefully 'bur-cut & opened' into the bezel.

Under close examination many areas need to be cleaned with a #002 - #003 Bud bur.

 As I don't want any of the two stones to slide out. My stone bearing will be carved out with two individual bearings.  Look carefully as the two seats or bearings, are not joined together. This will prevent any 'side movement' of the stones.

 With your "Reciprocating Hammer" GENTLY hammer the two stones into their respective spots in the setting.

 One of these two stones is slightly crooked and of the wrong shade of PINK. It's too late to fix or repair them.

 I put little 'mini-beads' over the main stone. If I didn't do this, I'd be having a difficult time in keeping the stone tight during the hammering process.

 Just for a different display, I inserted a long white stone, but using only one long bearing. At the end of the ring setting I inserted two stones.

 Was this a convoluted gem-setting process? YES, but anything can be done if the skill & techniques are there.

  Here is the #1 bearing cut prior to placing the center stone in the ring.

 

  Here is the #2 photo showing the additional Pavilion carving for the stone before setting.

 I created an 'unorthodox tightening' process by raising many mini-beads to prevent ANY MOVEMENT. Do what I did if you have any other way of securing your stones.

 You can be inventive and discover other methods of keeping your stone tight. The hammering process can be a challenge at the best of times.

 

 The stones should be tight against each other. This 'special tightening' can be a tough experience for the first time in this stone-setting project.

 When the hammering has been completed, then and only then, can you cut (remove) these mini-pieces of metal away with your Onglette graver.

With having stones of unequal widths can leave you with the stones overlapping. IF THIS BEING THE CASE, select a smaller size.

 No two stones (together) should be longer than the channel of the ring.

   The 'overlapping' is hardly noticeable, but it happened.

 The width of the bearing is governed solely by the width of the Girdle of the stone. Always be cognizant of this fact.

 On this simulated Princess (square) stone there could be 4 sides of the stone with 4 widths. Create your new seat that will occupy the 2 sides of nearly same width.

 The two white stones are as close as possible, without any breakage. As you can see there is no spacing at all. WOW!

 Long before any stones are being set, use your Tapered Pumice Wheel of #180 grit and remove any deep marks in the metal.

 When the many stones have been set, it's too late to use any cloth wheels or Pumice wheels. Precision cleaning of the ring is paramount in setting stones.

  This is one of the intricate stone settings, there can be many problems in the stone setting. JUST BE SO VERY CAREFUL.