"PUMICE WHEELS". WHY do we need them? => 19 photos

 (This essay is a 'repeat' but I've used a few extra photos to prove my point.)

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 I've written about these phenomenal 'lifesavers' many times. These little wheels are what make the 'finishing process' so important. They are used in either 'Gemstone Setting' or of course, jewellery production. 

 Let's write about the 'grit and shapes', they can come in many grades of textures: #180 and #1,000 grit just to name a few. The variety of shapes is good to know, 'TAPERED' & 'FLAT' there are other shapes as seen in this photograph, my own preferences are the 'Flat & Tapered'.

 These sticks are good to use but they can't bend to the shape of the contact, if needed. If used often, the paper on those sticks just wears away FAST. The soft-bending wheels are inexpensive plus they will bend to the shape of the piece of jewellery.

  Here are additional grits of wheels as no grit was mentioned, I suppose (by the colour) they are #240 & #400 grits.

 These are pre-formed and made just to be made to the metal shaft, but what happens if they get worn from constant use? Your guess is easy to understand. I've seen these many times and what I saw is that they are rigid and not able to bend to the shape of the detailed curves of your intricate design.

 These emery wheels are not the 'Snap-On' style. They are made to be screwed to a mandrel and reversing the cutting face leaves time being wasted.

 These particular wheels are tightened & secured with a screw-type mandrel.

 These mandrels are the shapes that I 'would & could' like to use. The one drawback is that the holes of these Pumice Wheels do get worn and made unusable over time. It is best to leave them secured to the metal mandrel.

 This wheel's name "Adalox" is synonymous with emery wheels as well as "Moore". If and when you are interested in either, experiment and enjoy their continuing excellent results.

  Once your delicate hammering has been completed, it is still imperative to finish the surface by using a Pumice wheel. PLEASE DON'T USE A FILE. 

Start your smooth cleaning by using a #180 grit followed by the extra-smooth #1,000 textured wheel.

 With your 'Flat Edge' pumice wheel put the wheel along the surface of the bezel wall. Remember not to touch the stone as the pumice will surely scratch the surface rendering the stone 100% unusable.

  I saw this absolutely fantastic breathtaking brooch on the internet. 

1) The only way that this pendant can be hand-polished is to GENTLY let the #180 grit wheel remove & smooth any sharp corners.

2) Then follow with the PINK coloured Tapered, Pumice wheel of  #1,000 grit to (again) GENTLY apply very little pressure to the metal. 

 All of these 19+ sections must be "surgically cleaned" before soldering together to be made into a brooch. 

 The fine edge of the pumice #180 wheel should cleanse the deep recesses of any casting remnants. Try to avoid any metal filing as this will remove too much of the metal.

 With the fine edge of the #180 grit wheel, just let the wheel justify its sole purpose in improving on the deep areas around the claw basket.

 

 When the pumice wheel is showing signs of wear and getting 'rounded', then the wheel has another 'life'. That 'life' is to lightly polish the inside of the ring as being shown.

 With the Flat edge of the "Pink" coloured soft #1,000 grit of a pumice wheel. You can then GENTLY allow the wheel to polish the ring around the Flush settings.

 If a cloth wheel is used in polishing this ring, one thing will happen "The claws will get worn and lose their sole purpose in holding the stones".

 This is where a 'Tapered, Pumice Wheel' works best, why is this? The shape of the claws is paramount in gemstone settings. If the required metal is removed by

accident, then the stones will get loose and fall out.

 The next reason for using pumice wheels is the in-between areas. DON'T USE A CLOTH POLISHING WHEEL You should maintain the design and patterns of the ring.

 Everywhere the files or Emery disks have touched the metal, they MUST BE MADE AND LEFT SMOOTH to be worn on the finger.

 The ring's multitude of deep crevasses must remain in pristine condition at all times. Please don't rely on the 'cloth wheels' to polish the claws.