https://Gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com: Setting OVAL Bezels (PLEASE READ THIS "REVIEW")

This is a major review of an important "tutorial essay". I've seen numerous attempts to explain the many techniques of "Bezel Setting". This essay could be 'the BEST one' you might find worth your time in reading.

============================================

I use a "High Speed Steel" bur, otherwise known as a 'HSS', cutting bur. This will be the best bur for cutting a deep groove into the bezel for this stone.

The finer "156C" have its bur-teeth too close together and these teeth don't cut as deep.

This is a diagram of the HSS bur, you can see that these angles are equal to that of OUR OVAL STONE. So why would you select a bur without these preferred angles?

The 'HSS' bur are best bur, or tool to use in preparing the multitude of angles for the facets of the OVAL stone.

This is a photo of the fully completed Oval stone setting. There are loads of techniques to get to this stage. If I selected some of my photos photos 'out of sequence', my humblest apologies.

I'm displaying many coloured stones from my gemstone inventory. These might be out of sequence, but that's just my OVAL stone setting from a period of many weeks of work.

The most important observation in setting a large Oval stone, is to keep the stone flat.

Here is my Onglette graver #2 Bright-Cutting the inside of the Bezel walls.

This is the 'flange' of metal during the Bright-Cutting process.

Any residual burs of metal should be removed with the aid of a Pumice wheel.

Error number one: The bezel is not hammered totally down on the stone. There is a space near the curve of the stone. In Bright-Cutting this could be a problem.

Error two: Here is another view of the 'space', this is not acceptable!!!

Error number three: After the hammering has been completed, it is more apparent that the 'space under the bezel lip' is more noticeable. Repeat the hammering process AGAIN.

Never hammer on a wooden ring clamp as the wood absorbs all of the hitting pressure.

I always use my steel mandrel as a 'solid base' for the hammering.

When I started the initial hammering, I secured the stone by hitting the four 'curved edges' first. This simple process keeps the stone aligned in the bezel, getting the stone crooked is a relative disaster, if the stone has been tightened.

Once that the stone has been set, use your #4 cut Pillar file and trim the edges of the bezel. The finished bezel should have a 'curved shape'.

You can now see the remnants of the metal filings.

Trim the edges of the bezel with a Triangular file with a #4 grit. Then you could use the Pumice wheel of #180 grit to semi-polish the corners.

NEVER LEAVE THIS FOR YOUR CLOTH-WHEEL, if you do, then the cloth-wheel might destroy all of your precision filing.

All of the bezel frame needs to be cleaned with your Pillar file again with a #4 grit.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: Check for any uneven finishing on the 'Under-Bezel' then use your Tapered Pumice wheel to remove any uneven finishing. This should be 'repaired' before the stone is set.

This stone hasn't been set yet, this is the 'best time' to clean where it's needed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are many areas of this HSS-bur where these angles of the bur match the angles of the stone. I suggest learning these angles and where they occur on the bur.

This photo shows where the bur is cutting these stone angles. (This can be a 'training exercise' for you).

I always put the stone into the bezel and check if its not 'rocking', if it does that means the stone hasn't been properly drilled out. DO THIS DRILLING AGAIN!!!

With a round bur that is larger than the Girdle of the stone put this round where edge of the HSS bur was cutting. This will be in the exact position where the Girdle will be sitting.

You can now see where the 'Round and the HSS burs' have been doing the cutting.

AGAIN, check to see if the stone isn't rocking, if it isn't, then you can proceed with your OVAL stone setting.

If the Girdle of your stone is too thick for the Bezel, just redrill with a larger round bur where necessary.

If another series of HSS bur cutting is required, you should do it now!

Remembering that the Culet is not leaning against any inside metal, this could be a major problem further as the stone won't sit well.

I always have an assortment of other Oval stones if one won't fit, then you have others to work on.
=======================================================
The round bur should always be larger than the thickness of the stone.

This is exactly where the round bur should be drilling.

Once your stone is finally sitting in the Bezel, then starts your hammering with your "Riveting Hammer".

The hammer face MUST ALWAYS BE SMOOTH, WITH NO DEEP MARKS. These marks will be quickly transferred to the Bezel wall, to remove any deep marks this can cause many cleaning problems.

I always secure and then to prevent any twisting of the stone there is one way to prevent this problem. Start your hammering at the 'four ends of the bezel wall'.
This will process will stabilize the stone and prevent any movement during the tightening.

After the hammering has been completed then come the final cleaning. I use my Pumice Wheel of #180 grit, I prefer these wheels to ensure a clean and shiny finish.

For the top of the Bezel wall, I will use my Flat, Pumice Wheel to give me a flat surface. You notice that I avoid any metal filing, why is this? If I use a Pillar or Triangular file of #4 grit, there will be striations on the surface and these will be rather difficult to remove.

At the last moment, make sure that there are no spaces anywhere under the bezel walls. If there are any, then the Bright-Cutting cannot get started.

The Onglette graver of number 2 is the best graver to give you a shiny inside surface.

When all of the setting and hammering has been completed, then you will have a "Piece of Wearable Art'. Enjoy your ring.