https://Gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com: How do you shape your NEW ONGLETTE graver? => 31 photos

This technique was the very first thing that I learned when I was an apprentice, circa 1961.

This particular display graver was made for my 'left-handed, student' the store-bought Onglette graver is suitable for anyone who is either 'left, or right-handed'.

This metal shaping technique will allow my student to be able to sit down and engrave immediately.

This graver must first have the 'end removed' on the bench-grinder. It must be tightly locked into place as this process depends upon accuracy at all times.

Here is a close-up of the 'end section' that must be removed to fit into the wooden handle to fit the length of the palm of the hand.

Here are the FLAT and the Onglette gravers after the shaping has taken place.

The graver must ALWAYS BE KEPT COOL, if not, the overheated steel will ruin any future work in metal carving. If there isn't any 'pooling' of water on the blade. STOP! Make sure that there is water sitting constantly on the blade.

The optimum length of the (working area) of the blade is measured at 15mm's. After having the blade starting to get warm to your touch, drop it into water immediately!

The total carving area is at a 'gentle curve' this whole process took me approximately 30 minutes, from start to finish.

The graver must never exceed the first joint in the finger (as shown).

To prevent any steel particles from getting into my skin, I used thin Latex gloves.

From the start of the 'gentle curve', to the face of the graver was the length I measured with 15mm's.

If any 'brown staining' is occurring, this means that the steel is getting overheated. KEEP THE BLADE COOL TO THE TOUCH.

HERE ARE THE MANY (photo & text) DETALS OF GRAVER SHAPING & PAPER POLISHING.

My very first step is to remove 1/2 of the blade that will be sitting inside of the wooden handle.

GENTLY start the shaping of the 'face of the blade' that will be doing the metal carving.

The measured length of the blade that will be used is 14.50 => 15.00 mm's.

At the desired 'length on the blade' is where shaping is now to start. Keep your eyes on the 'measured length' at all times.

NOTICE IF THERE IS ANY STAINING ON THE BLADE, THIS IS SO IMPORTANT. Keep a jar of water within close reach to the rotating grinding wheel.

Once that the desired shape of the graver has been made, the next step is the "Paper Polishing", as I always write in this blog "There are no short-cuts anywhere in Diamond Setting".

In this photo you can easily see that there are many water droplets collecting as the blade is held against the Emery Wheel.

The first of many papers is the #240 grit Emery paper. This coarse paper removes any imperfections that might have been created within the creating of the blade.

(Some stone setter will use a #400 grit paper, I chose not to use this paper as it isn't always necessary). I will rub a soft graphite pencil core into the pores of every "Polishing Paper". This will make that paper even more softer and make it to a higher grit.

With this newer grit #600 paper, it is even now within the range of #750 grit, WHY BUY MORE PAPERS IF WE CAN MAKE OUR OWN?

I want to make the steel blade 'shiny to the touch'. I can do two things here, rub the graver on the #600 and then rub it again on the 'softer' pencil-rubbed section.

WOW, two papers on just one side of the board!

You can see now that the steel blade is starting to shine like a mirror.

With the rubbing of the pencil, the paper will be now from an #800 paper it will be now equivalent to #1,000 grit.

We are getting even smoother paper due to this "pencil rubbing" process. The Polishing Paper was bought at #1,200 grit, it will be now almost #1,600 grit without buying any newer papers.

Where the rubbing has taken place, it is best to put the blade first at the paper where hasn't been any 'rubbing'. Then carefully place the blade on the 'pencil rubbed' area.