Now stop your laughing! We used to use them literally every day, and these 'anvils' actually worked! In fact, when my teacher/supervisor had Channel Setting, he called upon me 'tap' on the anvil that he was using. I'd either tap 'too hard' or 'too soft', but most of the time 'the hits' were spot-on!
I even used the 3-inch concrete nails and these were then fashioned to have a rectangular tip. These were a bit soft, but they had two (almost good) features: length and with a knurled area for finger gripping! These were mediocre, as they were heavy and the length was too long!
We used old file handles and they worked the best, why? They were hardened steel, thin to grip and had also a knurled handle, voila! These are still being used by many of my peers.
Why is this method better than your Reciprocating Hammering process? You can control the direct 'hitting power', not too mention the speed of the anvil hitting the metal. Basically, you have more control over every aspect of the Bezel or Channel Setting item!
There is one slight drawback, all of your items need to be put on a steel mandrel. You need one hand holding the hammer and the other hand has to hold your anvil.
On the "File-handle", there seemed to be one little problem. The thickness of the steel rod was too thin for some of the setter's fingers or just to hold them.
This "Dental pick", now an anvil, is the 'best' to use. It has all the features of a decent setting anvil.
These thin "file-anvils" are not at all suitable for thick Bezel Walls.
The "File-handles" might work for small Gypsy settings, only!
I'm not saying that this idea of using "unorthodox" anvils will work for you.
But in the course of many years of stone setting, some experimenting or even re-inventing new tools come in handy at a moments notice!
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