"Modifying your Bead-Burnisher, how & why?
This technique will save you from any stone breakage!
When you have a series of fine 'beads' to burnish, here is a fantastic method in finishing your project. The thought of damaging your Diamonds or even Emeralds will be now a thing of the past!
This method and techniques were taught to me only 60 years ago! It has been a 'real life-saver' when dealing with expensive stones that need to be safely 'burnished' & uniform in size.
In decades past we had to make our very own 'bead-burnishers'. For only a small $ amount, you can buy these in a set of 12, or even 18, time saved than making your own.
First of all, select a bead-burnisher that is 'larger in circumference' than the bead you need to be rounded! For example, in your pre-made set of burnishers, use a burnisher that is not the same size as the bead, why not?
When you attempt to rotate the burnisher, you will see a little rim (or dish) around the tip of the bead. This is definite "no-no"!
With your selected burnisher in your handle, lay it on your oil-stone at a 45-degree angle. Your stone should have oil on its surface as the metal will not get embedded into the pores of the stone.
With "three long strokes" of the burnisher, from one end of the stone to the other is sufficient to get the correct results.
Do not keep stopping and looking as this might give you a 'faceted' effect on the tool when you're wanting to start again! Three...long...SLOW draws on the oil-stone, it's now done! Was this EASY?
When I was awarded the "Guinness World Record" some years ago, I used a 'bead-burnisher'
that didn't damage any fragile stones in the process. I placed the 'facet' of the burnisher against the stone if not there would have been 'stone-dust' in my bench pan!!!
Instead of using a "cup-bur, aka 77B" on each claw tip, I did many things at once. I 'rounded off '
the mini-claw tips and at the same time pressed the 'tip' down on the stone and furthermore making the claw-tips uniform in appearance.
There is no other way to finish setting these 516 stones (double-sided plate & the "88"). Using a correctly designed 'bead-burnisher' and let it do the clean finishing with you!
When the burnisher is held vertical, that section of the rim on the burnisher is no longer going to make any contact and damage the Facets of the stone.
Basically, there is now only 3/4 of a rim now to 'round' the beads. Interesting scenario?
You can still rotate the tool as you have done in the past. Now there are no longer having any 'barriers' to prevent you from getting the beads finished!
I have added a few of my 'archived' photographs of the many uses of a 'faceted, bead-burnisher'.
(I might suggest in having you experiment on some 'sample' beads to familiarize yourself with this very easy technique.)
Try some 'fresh' beads on a silver plate and get used to the "Oil-stone & Faceting process". Then understand what is going on between the 'burnisher-facet' and the 'soft' stones.
Here are a few of my archived pictures!
Here is a set of "Grills", the beads are now secured and strong enough to withstand further graver cutting.
In this picture, I can easily bead-burnish these very delicate stones with no 'breakage' problems!
All of these 'tender' stones were equally burnished in size, even on Emeralds & Rubies!
This process will now enable you to burnish your beads with no further problems!
This technique will save you from any stone breakage!
When you have a series of fine 'beads' to burnish, here is a fantastic method in finishing your project. The thought of damaging your Diamonds or even Emeralds will be now a thing of the past!
This method and techniques were taught to me only 60 years ago! It has been a 'real life-saver' when dealing with expensive stones that need to be safely 'burnished' & uniform in size.
In decades past we had to make our very own 'bead-burnishers'. For only a small $ amount, you can buy these in a set of 12, or even 18, time saved than making your own.
First of all, select a bead-burnisher that is 'larger in circumference' than the bead you need to be rounded! For example, in your pre-made set of burnishers, use a burnisher that is not the same size as the bead, why not?
When you attempt to rotate the burnisher, you will see a little rim (or dish) around the tip of the bead. This is definite "no-no"!
With your selected burnisher in your handle, lay it on your oil-stone at a 45-degree angle. Your stone should have oil on its surface as the metal will not get embedded into the pores of the stone.
With "three long strokes" of the burnisher, from one end of the stone to the other is sufficient to get the correct results.
Do not keep stopping and looking as this might give you a 'faceted' effect on the tool when you're wanting to start again! Three...long...SLOW draws on the oil-stone, it's now done! Was this EASY?
There are many instances where the simplest procedure can turn into a nightmare! When you have to secure for example 49 stones in this item.
Every one of these beads must of the same size & moved over the stone in an orderly fashion.
A 'bead-burnisher' is the only setting tool you need to use, but it must be configured as not to damage any of the stones!
When I was awarded the "Guinness World Record" some years ago, I used a 'bead-burnisher'
that didn't damage any fragile stones in the process. I placed the 'facet' of the burnisher against the stone if not there would have been 'stone-dust' in my bench pan!!!
Instead of using a "cup-bur, aka 77B" on each claw tip, I did many things at once. I 'rounded off '
the mini-claw tips and at the same time pressed the 'tip' down on the stone and furthermore making the claw-tips uniform in appearance.
There is no other way to finish setting these 516 stones (double-sided plate & the "88"). Using a correctly designed 'bead-burnisher' and let it do the clean finishing with you!
To review this important topic:
Why must there be this 'metal facet'? The answer is very interesting and easy to understand.
When the burnisher is held vertical, that section of the rim on the burnisher is no longer going to make any contact and damage the Facets of the stone.
Basically, there is now only 3/4 of a rim now to 'round' the beads. Interesting scenario?
You can still rotate the tool as you have done in the past. Now there are no longer having any 'barriers' to prevent you from getting the beads finished!
I have added a few of my 'archived' photographs of the many uses of a 'faceted, bead-burnisher'.
In this picture, I wanted to secure the bead as it might get cut or destroyed in the 'rough-cutting processes.
(I might suggest in having you experiment on some 'sample' beads to familiarize yourself with this very easy technique.)
Try some 'fresh' beads on a silver plate and get used to the "Oil-stone & Faceting process". Then understand what is going on between the 'burnisher-facet' and the 'soft' stones.
Here are a few of my archived pictures!
Here is a set of "Grills", the beads are now secured and strong enough to withstand further graver cutting.
In this picture, I can easily bead-burnish these very delicate stones with no 'breakage' problems!
All of these 'tender' stones were equally burnished in size, even on Emeralds & Rubies!
This process will now enable you to burnish your beads with no further problems!
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