"CUT DOWN" Diamond Setting pattern & metal carving -14 photos

 This pattern is so interesting that IT MUST BE SHOWN. I don't know how many Diamond Setters there are who know of it's name, or even familiar in how to execute this innovative pattern. That is why it's so very interesting.

 I have a series of photographs with these exacting techniques. There WON'T BE ANY BEADS OR CLAWS IN THIS DESIGN, this pattern is really different. It still amazes me even during this writing, how strange it still looks.

 The Level of Difficulty is at a high level of complexity. I'd rate this at "12 out of 10".

When I was in my apprenticeship, my teacher Stan Levine, (of blessed memory) spent only one hour showing me how to do this pattern. Now it's your turn to learn this innovative technique.

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           What tools are needed in this project?

                      Onglette graver #2

                      Flat graver #40

 There is no danger of setting Genuine Emeralds of any size, with this technique.

 Just what keeps the stones in the metal? The answer is so very simple and to do this pattern is to use a Flat Graver of #40 width, not the thinner #39 or a wider #41...but only a blade of 1.35 mm in width.

 On either side of the '4 cuts' that now appear, it's imperative to keep these 'cuts' separated from the new overall pattern. How is this done?

 

Use your Onglette graver #2 and make cuts in the shape of a wide "V", as shown. This is where the delightful pattern name "CUT DOWN" comes from.

 

 With your Flat graver #40, make a wide flat cut as shown.

 How do you make these flanges of metal, just look at the 4 points that is pivoting from beyond the setting of each stone. 

Each 'pivot-point' starts lower & deeper than where the stone is sitting. There are 4 of them for each stone.

 The 'pivot-point' determines the length of the new bead-flanges. (as shown in this photo)

  

 The "Cut-Down" setting rule is easy "DIG INTO THE METAL ON ONE EDGE (or side) OF THE GRAVER AND TWIST".

 In between the stones, you may create a little square, or two 'parallel lines' or cuts. With these lines you can Bright-Cut them.

 To make this simpler, place the palm of your hand on a table-top and pivot your palm to the left. Now transfer this "hand-motion" technique to your Flat graver, isn't this easy to grasp?

 Don't be overly concerned about uneven or large spaces in between any stones. I will delve into this during this important 'instructional essay'.

 

 It's much better to 'set & secure' 3-4 number of stones, than 'one at a time'. This will give you continual lines of even setting, "Uniformity is very important".

For safety reasons, I suggest you lower your stones much lower than the regular bead-setting levels.

 Keep the 'Table' of all of these gemstones below the level of the metal.

 I like to have a 'bearing' created, as I don't want any stone to be set crooked or sometimes on a slight angle by accident.

 My 'Palm-Pivoting' technique as described, is the rule for you to follow and to practice further. Do you see the amount of metal literally covering each side of the round stones?

 If the round stones were set at a higher level, the amount of metal covering each stone would be miniscule as compared to those shown here.

 What do 'we' do with the spaces in between the stones? As seen above in the upper 3 photos, I created little squares and then Bright-Cut those squares.

  

 For decoration purposes, I always Bright-Cut these spaces. I then will scribe with a ink marker as a rudimentary guide for cutting with my Onglette graver.

   It is important to make sure that the 4 cuts of metal ARE COVERING THE 4 NEW CORNERS. If not, the whole appearance and function of a "Cut-Down" will be in jeopardy.

THIS IS THE EPITOME OF A "CUT-DOWN" STONE SETTING.

  To create these 4 deep cuts, the Flat graver MUST DIG INTO THE METAL DEEP

''shallow cuts" will never give you the results that are needed.

  The Flat graver 'pivot-point' must start beyond where the stone is sitting. Then you can 'twist the metal over the stone' with the greatest of ease, trust me!

  

                 =>This is the technique of 'Cut-Down' setting<=

 I used an ink-marker pen to be used as a tool to guide myself in creating these metal covering beads.

 At first, I drew little squares, and then on each side, I created Flat graver diggings. I prefer to make these beads on 1 & 2 corners, I'd turn the ring around and start again with corners 3 & 4. This will be culminating in 4 Flat-graver flanges securing each stone. Good Idea?

  This "Cut-Down" design is not an easy process, but after a few dozen practice settings it will become easy for you. Then you can use my notes and guide your students.