Introduction to a MAJOR Cluster-Ring project => 18 (photos & diagrams)

 When I was travelling, many of my students were asking me questions about Cluster-Ring settings.

 In this tutorial essay, I will delve into this topic and display the setting tools & burs to use.

THIS SINGULAR PROJECT IS NOT EASY! There will be many essays on this topic for you. There could be many errors. Be careful.

 This essay will be on how to 'set and secure' the stones.

 When you are using gemstones of the same size, the most important aspect of this is to have them all of the same colour.

 The most important tool in securing the stones is to use a FLAT Graver. I personally use a #40 (wide) blade.

 The first thing I will do is to use a tapered awl (red handle) and open the claws further apart. This will allow me to increase the space for the bur to do the metal cutting.

 In this setting project, it is incumbent upon me to keep the blade thin. The reason is to get the flat graver into very delicate areas.

Here are some important measurements for your records.

The "156C" (Under-Cutting) bur should cut seats for the stone at a 90-degree angle. 

 If I used a 70-degree bur, it would not give me the same shape as the stone. All gemstones are shaped at a 90-degree angle, either genuine or simulated. So why use them?

 It is not necessary to trim the claws with any file; the best option is to use a "77B" Cup Bur.

Here is an assortment of various 'Cup Burs' that I use constantly.

 The 'centre stone claws' are the first to be set for this pendant. The 'middle row' is joined to the large centre stone claws. Then the 'outside claws' are equally joined to the 'middle row'. DON'T AVOID THIS SEQUENCE, EVER.

 Never think of filing these small claws. The best option is to use the #77B - Cup Bur, but hold it on a slight angle as the steel bur won't damage the delicate facets.

 The most important thing to do FIRST is to use a round bur to clean each of the setting holes.

 After your metal casting, there could be little pieces of metal remaining in the holes. GET RID OF THEM, NOW!

This is your finished cluster setting, NICE? You will notice that the claws are 'well-rounded' before the delicate gemstones were set.

  Here are the centre claws after the '156C' bur was used to prepare the seats. You will also notice that the Pavilion Facets of the stone will rest against the claw.

  You can select larger stones for the middle row, if you need to. Then, for the bottom (outside row), the smallest stones can be used. For this, you will have an overall tapering effect.

                      Drawings to guide you further...(I hope!)