Detailed Steps of a Cluster Ring. (FINAL ASSEMBLY) =>19 photos

BEWARE, mistakes might happen. This is why I prefer to make this topic informative and explaining what could happen.

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 Here are the only graver tools that are needed to start and complete this project. I use basically the regular sized graver #40, as it is useful in creating the wire beads in securing a stone.

 I have two Flat gravers that tighten gemstones; they are a #39 (narrow) and a #40 that I use continually.

 In the dark red coloured handle is the pointed tool that I use to widen the claw opening.

 With a soft brush, I'll make sure that all pieces of metal dust have been removed from the claw settings.

 Here I am using my 'bent nosed' plier jaws to tighten the gemstones. I will insert one jaw into an empty space and lever the other jaw against one claw. 

This technique will prevent any need to start 'pushing fragile claws'.

  Here is a close-up on how this technique works. It works great!

Is there enough space in between these claws to set a stone?

  I'm going to use my 156C bur and prepare a seat for a few of the stones. (Not all, but only a few) I want to make sure the stones will be sitting at the correct depth and not crooked.

 When that stone is sitting correctly use your Flat graver and skim the surface of the claw.

 Your Flat blade will now create a 'wire bead' will hold & tighten the stone.

 You can now see how that wire bead is holding the stone tightly.

  At this opportunity, check all of the other stones for security and not being crooked. Then carry on further around the cluster.

 Here is a close-up of this ultra-delicate technique. There are no second chances!!!

 If you find that your Flat graver is not digging in to the metal, go to your oilstone and sharpen the front of the blade. Then polish the underneath of the Flat graver and re-polish the graver again.

 DO NOT and NEVER 'HAND-PUSH' THE OUTSIDE CLAWS OF THE CLUSTER.

 This will cause much distortion of the claws in general. We don't want any claws to get ruined at this stage of delicate setting.

 Please tighten one 'outside claw' at a time. Don't rush yourself; you want this ring to last for years. What is the point of a few minutes more being spent on setting this ring?

 Another thing is that I use my pliers and hit the clamp (not the ring) to see if any stones start to move. I did this even during this setting process. (I found that one stone was slightly loose)

 When the setting was completed, it was time to 'start the finishing'.

 You should NOT USE A MINI-FILE ON THE CLAWS. Why not?   The file might easily loosen some of the tightened claws. I suggest using your 'Snap-On' Emery wheel of a "MEDIUM GRIT" as shown here.

 To 'round' all of the claw tops, I'd use a "77B", Cup Bur that will make every claw top looking like a little ball.

 Always have an ample supply of burs on hand to assist in the finishing process. I erred in this, and I didn't get the exact finish as I wanted; neither should you!

 These 77B burs were too large, but I managed to round the claws as best as I could.