Wedding Band , 2-bead style (circa 1974)

 Everything was "Rough & Bright-Cut" by hand, either we did this Bright-Cutting at 100% perfection, or it was scrapped. Simple as that!!! I had a fantastic teacher (Stan Levine of Blessed Memory, z"l)

 This technique was taught to me 48 years ago!

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 This very up-close 'rough cutting process' was done only as a guide for the next step in preparing any setting with a graver. 

  Don't be too alarmed if you see some (poor) corner cutting, I will repair two of them in the next process.

 I was more interested in separating the 'two beads' from the rest of the wedding band.

  The very first cut should look like this, as shown here.

 

 You can see just how "DEEP YOUR CUTTING IS BEING DONE". We are aiming at a very deep cut to separate the two beads from the rest of the pattern. YES, you can be aggressive in your graver cutting at this stage.

   I'm now starting to use my Onglette graver #1 to create a fine outline around the inside and initial cutting. You can see the flaring of metal being removed.

  You can see just "How & Where" the Onglette graver is starting to cut deeper into the metal. Try to ignore the first series of cuts, as they are only acting as a guide for important "Outside 4 Lines".

  Do not cut at a shallow depth, we need this deep cut for the next stages of cutting.

  I would ask you, the engraver, or the setter to start your cutting right at the converging of the end corners of the pattern. Then using your Flat Graver #40, use more cutting just to the corners where the two side lines converge.

 

 Does this sound like a mixed set of instructions? Just follow the photos, as it isn't too difficult, even for the beginner-setter.

 Whatever you do, don't remove too much of the metal around where the two "Beads" are positioned. YOU NEED THIS BEAD METAL FOR SECURING THE STONE!

 That cutting angles should (and must be) at a 45degree angle.

 In the deep, "outside cutting line", back-cut at as well at a 45-degree angle. Here is exactly where you can use your "Milgrain Tool".  

 

 Please use your Bead-Burnisher of #8, this is the best size for pushing over and down onto the stone.

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  Just to repeat these important instructions again, use your Onglette Graver, either #1 or #2.

  Your first cut is only at a shallow cutting angle. Then followed with a deeper cutting technique.

   The wedding band cutting is starting to nicely take shape, agree?

 

  Please be very careful in your ring polishing not to wear away any of the new delicate patterns. To avoid any aggressive polishing, I suggest you use your (PINK) Pumice Wheel of #1,000 grit around the delicate pattern.

 Following this process, you can polish anywhere else that you need to go!

 

   Where I learned this cutting process at "Siffari Jewellers" here in Toronto, only two setters were obliged to cut these patterns. It was myself and my instructor/teacher gemstone setter. 

Therefore I can offer you, the reader, my experience in this cutting technique.

(Gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com)

    BTW, always keep your Onglette and Flat gravers sharp.