Jewellery - "Square Cutting" pattern

 This was one of most difficult patterns to cut during my 14 years apprenticeship. I'm reliving every moment in this essay writing. But I want to share EVERYTHING with you, the readers.

 The Difficulty Scale is about 15 out of 10! Why so high, it's because there are so many chances of ruining this delicate pattern.

 Remember, that none of my cutting exercises were CAD created. I used only 2 gravers, namely the Onglette #1 and the fantastic Bright-Cutting, Flat Graver #40.

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 The very first step in this delicate pattern is to ink-scribe a square design. This will be your guide from now on.

 

With the four corners marked, you can start to cut a pattern as shown.

 

  How would you start to cut a pattern? I'd ask you to cut a "VEE" shape just at the corner, this is how I would initiate the Bead-Separation design.

 Cut DEEP as you can, this is very important in the preparation of the 4-Beads.

 Between the four "VEE" shaped corners with your Onglette graver, cut a DEEP line from one corner to the other. Then with your Flat graver joining these corner-cuts together.

 

  Do you see just how nice these cuts are now looking? Remember, this is not a CAD designing.

 When I started my training, CAD wasn't even a "glimmer in the eyes" of the 5 model-makers on staff at where I was learning.

When the inner pattern has been started, you can now start the important 'outer square',

  Rule to remember.. "CUT AND CUT DEEP" You need the depth to start your Bright-Cutting process.

 With your fantastic FLAT graver #40, cut at a 45degree angle (as shown) on all of the four sides. Your graver MUST BE 100% sharp and ready to exercise the Bright Cutting processes.

 Where the "VEE" corners you can now Bead-Set the center stone of your choosing.   You can even set an Emerald, as now there will be no way you can chip, of break any of those soft stones, why? You won't be touching any stone. 

 Use your Onglette graver #1 and recut (as shown) where necessary. You need to keep those corners clean for the next step. The Bead-Setting processes!

  I really suggest that you entertain using another graver. This is a Onglette #2 or #3, but to round off the front sharp point on your Emery Paper #240 grit. 

 Then you dig in the back-end of the "VEE, Triangle" and gather that metal and push it over the stone, as shown.

 By doing this procedure, you are actually cleaning out the corners at the same time. Good idea?

  This finished design looks so clean and without any rough or rippling stops from the "Bright-Cutting" Flat graver.

 Here is the final viewing of this very useful 'square' designed pattern. You have the option to use your "Milgrain Tool", if you need too.