Repairing a Wax, before Casting

  Here are the many views of what can happen prior to any kind of metal casting. In the "wax repair" process, this is the best (only way) of fixing future errors.

 Please view the many errors and how they were carefully repaired.

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 This is my 'wax file' cleaning out the teeth of the file prior to my repairing process.

The filing process is done along the angles of the teeth.

 

 These two knife-edge burs have only 3 teeth, these burs will clean the holes filled with dirt.

 This "break in the wax injection" is totally unnecessary in the way it is for casting.

This wax-sprue has no reason to be there and it should be removed. NOW!

 The wax heating-pen is using the same wax and any problems can be easily repaired.  

 

 Close examination of this wax-disk is imperative. 

I used the same wax and just "dropped a ball of wax" into the cleaned hole.

 Once the hole is filled in, I will use my file and smooth that little 'bubble'.

 Using a low-heat on my 'pen', all errors can be repaired.

 The low-heated pen must fill in the in the breaks in this very thin injection wax form. 

I let the bubble of wax flow gently and afterwards I'll file this bubble down to blend in with the frame.

 Please don't let the pen TOUCH THE WAX-FRAME. I usually let the wax just drop a little wax then I'll file it to be smooth.

 The heat of the pen is sufficient to melt wax, where needed.

 The wax-pen has a collection of wax to drop a small amount. KEEP THE HOT PEN AWAY FROM THE WAX-CASTING. If the pen touches the frame, everything will be totally destroyed in seconds!!! 

What is this flake of wax doing on the frame? It's dirt and it shouldn't be there, when the metal casting has started, this dirt will be removed and a hole will be remaining.

 These are the simple implements I'm using for these wax-repairs.

 Keep your large wax-file clean at all times. You can't file your waxes accurately if your file is full of any residue. USE THE WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN.

This "blue joining" wax is put there for one important reason. When the metal is being cast, metal has to flow from one side to the other, afterwards this can be removed with little effort. 

 I like to keep my soft wax on a steel block, why? If I'm holding the wax in my warm fingers, this wax may get be distorted. I like to have the delicate wax get cool again.

 Even if the wax-frame could be resting on the steel block, it's just to keep it cool.

 

  A great idea is the "burn" off the residue wax off of your hot 'wire-tipped' pen. This is the best way of cleaning your wax-tips.

 If you 'feel' that the wax-form is too thin for casting, then fill in the 'hollow' areas with the wax-pen.

 Let the wax fill in to a level that you need. You need a good secure metal cast, not a poor looking thin pendant.

 This wax-form is needing a "fill-in" PLUS a repair on the inside edge. 

 This is my wax-pen, I wrote a "smiley-face" which meant that the desired temperature is good where it is.

 The word "wax" meant that I mustn't go any higher with this 'melting heat'. I experimented many times to find the correct melting temperature.

 There is dirt on the form and this has to be removed NOW and not after the casting.

 

  AVOID touching the soft wax-form, that's why I'm using plastic gloves.

 The top of the wax-bezel is not smooth, meaning that in the metal form, there will be defects for setting.

 Any adjustments MUST be corrected prior to metal casting.

 The sprue is not thick enough for transferring metal from one side to the other.

 

  With this particular design, this wax will be too thin for casting. It looks rather shallow, as you can see light shining through it. 

 Remember not to have your wax-pen touch the frame.

 If you do touch the pen to the frame, you could very easily melt this important area. "Repairing waxes" is not always an easy thing to do. 

 With the "3-blade" bur, remove any residual wax that is remaining.

 Core out that area on either side, YOU MUST GET RID OF ANY UNUSED WAX.

 

 If necessary, re-drill the hole and make it larger just to get it clean again.

   You can see how great this wax-form is now looking, free of any underneath defects.

 GENTLY FILE AWAY ANY "LITTLE BUBBLES". In the metal, it's so much more difficult, trust me!

Again, make the "connecting sprue" much thicker, prior to casting.

Get rid of the little specks of dirt...NOW! If not now, after the casting those little spots will be holes.

 Don't let the hot pen-tip get near the desired wax pattern. The heat that is flowing from the tip will be enough for you!

 Important words for you to remember "melt the wax & file clean again"

 

 If you have to re-drill any holes, don't have them too close together for Pave' setting.

 This has been a rather challenging exercise. The Difficulty Scale for this project is a definite "8.5 out of 10" with much practice ensuing.