How do you "Pin Set" stones in metal? => 23 photos

   In this essay, we will explore how gemstones are set in metal. There are also 'errors' shown in this essay. 

 In the first of three photos, I'll be explaining how the 'pin-setting claws' are moved over each stone.

 

 The hollowed tip rests on the pin-set claw. This tube-like device enables the setter to actually move, but never push the claw. That 'pushing' will deform the shape of the pin-like claw.

 The flange, as seen here, protects the edge of the pin as it is moved over. Yes, some of these hollow pins tend to wear down.

 With my 10x power 'hand-held' loupe, you can see the pin-claw about to start the 'moving' process.

"Errors in Pin-Setting"

1) The base of the claws was cloth-wheel polished. I suggest that a 'Magnetic Tumbler' pre-polish the metal. This will be shown below.

2) The very tip of each claw has been severely over-polished and is rendered nearly useless.

3) The wax was deemed defective, and the pin-claws are now nonexistent. This resulted in the user not paying any attention to the poorly injected wax.

 4) There was no 'pre-polishing' with the aid of any 'Magnetic Tumbling' techniques. Any cleaning must be made immediately, if not sooner.

5) These 'little stumps' are not actually claws; they cannot be used for any stone setting.

6) The centre disk still has many wax claw settings that have not been cleaned before any metal casting. Poor preparation!!

 7) There haven't been any high polishing methods being observed. If this were to be done after setting, the 'pin-setting' claws could be ruined in an instant.

 The minimum number of jewellery tools still provides an adequate number of tools to be used. You can nicely see how clean the workbench is.

Here is another technique for moving a claw. The graver is resting against the base of the claw, and the 'face' is just GENTLY moving the claw.

 Here is exactly where those 'larger' stones are placed. There may be additional, larger places for these stones. 

It's best to keep them made available, just if they are needed.

For every stone that is to be set, a 'bearing' must be drilled.

 I separated the largest stones just for the 'corners'. This is because there is more space, thus allowing a larger stone to be set.

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 This photo was used in a previous essay; it shows the 'Magnetic Tumbler' in action. 

 These are the metal pins that, when rotating, will hit and lightly polish anything they come in contact with.

 Here is the specialised soap that will enable the metal pins to do their polishing.

 Always keep the 'bead burnisher' in a near vertical position; this way, the burnisher will be able to 'move' the claw over the stone.

 REMEMBER that each claw must have little bearings created for each stone.

 If the bur is being held crooked, so will be the stone. Always keep the handpiece held vertically at all times.

  Always be aware of any crooked stones that might be set. 

 Final suggestion: clean out each & every hole before all stone setting has started.

Do you use the Metric system? 12 photos.

  How accurate is the metric measuring system? In using the metric method, the weights & length are gauged in hundreds or thousands of a unit.

 No longer are we using 'pints, quarts, or ounces'; we use (in Canada) a more accurate system of measuring liquids.

 

These gemstones are actually .025mm's.

 

 The bigger 3 diamonds are 0.5 mm EACH. 

 This smaller stone is now 0.0125 mms in diameter; it is no longer a "1/2 point" in size.

        "Metric and Decimal" calculations in jewellery are more detailed and precise".

   In weighing wax patterns, there is a difference; the weighing system is calculated with 0.01 decimals, as shown below.

 When you are calculating metal casting costs, accuracy is essential. Some newer scales will now show 0.001 of a gram.

 

 Some casters will say that this example of a wax is 2 grams in weight. But for more accuracy, it is 1.97 grams.

 (I use a very accurate pricing system named www.dentritics.com.)

This horse statue is 'galloping' in at 6.64 grams.

 At 18karat gold in USD at $96.85 an ounce, and silver (925) is $48.60 an ounce. (These quotes are from Oct.31 2025.)

This is why accuracy in the weights is absolutely essential.

 This horse face weighs not 7 grams, but 7.04 grams. At the high price of gold or even silver, accuracy is more essential these days.

 

 This wax is accurate to the 'hundredths' of a gram. With the increase in metals, every increment on the weight scale could mean additional costs being incurred.

Why should you use C.A.D. for your intricate designing? => 13 photos.

  The most exquisite, shaped patterns are usually made by a computer program. There is no possible way that these designs can be executed by 'hand crafting'.

 The individual claw settings could not be designed with such precision in claw height and thickness. The uniform 'cut-out' patterns of these patterns would be difficult to replicate by hand. 

 In my previous essays, I suggested that a 'pre-polishing' technique be used in cleaning your jewellery before stone setting.

 Would you believe that the Azure and Blue Sapphire stone setting was created while this ring was still in the CAD program?

 C.A.D. computer program visualises many possibilities without going into the actual metal casting.

 This wax disk was created while the designer was still thinking about the metal form.

 The designer always plans ahead according to the client's needs.

 There is no possibility that all of the 64 large stone claws can be created equally by hand.

 This casino disk was crafted while it was still in the CAD program. The stone setting was still active in the 'computer program'.

 Modifications can be made easily while the pattern is still in the CAD program.

 For my American friends, I designed the 'stars & stripes'. I requested that the setting be a 'shared claw' arrangement on all of the stone settings.

 Computer carving doesn't always come in metal. Here is a prime example of 'computer wood carving' being used on an upscale clothing store in Toronto, Canada.

 I touched the surface, and it was as smooth as silk.

 With a few computer clicks, the designer can replicate white stones to simulate gemstones.

 In this remarkable CAD program, the designer visualises how diamonds can look once they are set.

 In these two photos, you can now observe the assembly of the bracelet links without any of the usual metal casting.

 While still in the computer program, the designer can alter and make changes within a few seconds. Thus saving hundreds of dollars in metal casting.

 The best part is that the client can change his (or her) mind to meet their own client's wishes. 

Must you always "Pre-Polish" your jewellery & WHY? 14 photos

 This little machine has given me much enjoyment during the past 5 years. It has cleaned many large and delicate jewellery items.

 These little steel pins are what this machine uses in cleaning the jewellery.

 From an extremely large, non-gold item as this tiger's face, anything will get cleaned by these 'tumbling pins'.

 Inside the black coloured plate, a revolving series of magnets rotates the pins at a high speed. This tumbling action keeps the little pins tumbling against each other.

 

  I have just one question: What kinds of jewellery can be cleaned in this machine? Here are just some of them:

 There is no way that a 'cloth, polishing wheel' can polish the intricate areas of these delicate bracelet links.

 Be forewarned that all of these sections of this bracelet should be tumbled before any total assembly.

 This top section of the clasp for this bracelet MUST BE CLEANED & PRE-POLISHED before any stone setting. 

 This way, all of the holes will be cleaned and be ready for setting.

  This large 14 karat gold ring MUST BE TUMBLED before any diamond setting is to start.

  This photo displays the 'before & after' pre-polishing techniques.

 Even before any of the square stones are set, the Magnetic Tumbler must do what is necessary.

 It is best to pre-polish the complete plate 'front and back' before engraving.

 

There is no possible method for cleaning this wedding band if not by Magnetic Tumbling. The cloth wheel cleaning process WILL DESTROY THE CLAWS IN MOMENTS.

  

 Even on this intricate engagement ring, 'Pre-Polishing' is essential and 100% required.

"You are only limited by your imagination!"

I dropped a small diamond, how do I pick it up? 5 photos

"Darn, I dropped a .01 point diamond into my bench. I see it, but how do I get it out?

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 I've heard this question many times, and the answers cease to amaze me. First of all, don't use a pair of tweezers, as this won't grab such small gemstones as shown below. SQUEEZING THE STONE IS NOT TO BE DONE.

 The only recourse is to buy a 'wax pick up FOB'. The basic price is under $10.00 CDN, but well worth the purchase. You can pinch the tip with your fingers to make it into a finer point for smaller stones.

  In my earlier (1965) days, I used to melt 'finely mixed pieces of charcoal powder with hot candle wax' and mix this combination in my hand. This was an awful and dirty experience, but it got made.

 The whole purpose was not to leave any residue on the stones. These days, we can buy this new wax fob that will last for many months or even years.

 These three stones each measure .02 mm. I have smaller stones to show you...ready?

 The three larger stones measure 2mm; the group of really small stones are only .0122 mm in diameter.

 Here are the mini-sized stones that only a wax fob can 'safely' grip.

 Don't contemplate using any callipers to grab these little stones.

 If your fingers tremble, please use a wax fob instead (PLEASE.)

  REMEMBER THAT THIS $10.00 PURCHASE IN BUYING THE 'WAX FOB' IS THE GREATEST INVESTMENT THAT YOU CAN MAKE FOR YOUR 'ACTIVE BENCH'.

Gerry Lewy: gerrylewy18@gmail.com