In this essay, we will explore how gemstones are set in metal. There are also 'errors' shown in this essay.
In the first of three photos, I'll be explaining how the 'pin-setting claws' are moved over each stone.
The flange, as seen here, protects the edge of the pin as it is moved over. Yes, some of these hollow pins tend to wear down.
With my 10x power 'hand-held' loupe, you can see the pin-claw about to start the 'moving' process.
The minimum number of jewellery tools still provides an adequate number of tools to be used. You can nicely see how clean the workbench is.
These are the metal pins that, when rotating, will hit and lightly polish anything they come in contact with.
Always be aware of any crooked stones that might be set.
"Errors in Pin-Setting"
1) The base of the claws was cloth-wheel polished. I suggest that a 'Magnetic Tumbler' pre-polish the metal. This will be shown below.
2) The very tip of each claw has been severely over-polished and is rendered nearly useless.
3) The wax was deemed defective, and the pin-claws are now nonexistent. This resulted in the user not paying any attention to the poorly injected wax.
4) There was no 'pre-polishing' with the aid of any 'Magnetic Tumbling' techniques. Any cleaning must be made immediately, if not sooner.
5) These 'little stumps' are not actually claws; they cannot be used for any stone setting.
6) The centre disk still has many wax claw settings that have not been cleaned before any metal casting. Poor preparation!!.jpg)
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7) There haven't been any high polishing methods being observed. If this were to be done after setting, the 'pin-setting' claws could be ruined in an instant.
Here is another technique for moving a claw. The graver is resting against the base of the claw, and the 'face' is just GENTLY moving the claw.
Here is exactly where those 'larger' stones are placed. There may be additional, larger places for these stones.
For every stone that is to be set, a 'bearing' must be drilled.
I separated the largest stones just for the 'corners'. This is because there is more space, thus allowing a larger stone to be set.
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This photo was used in a previous essay; it shows the 'Magnetic Tumbler' in action. These are the metal pins that, when rotating, will hit and lightly polish anything they come in contact with.
Here is the specialised soap that will enable the metal pins to do their polishing.
Always keep the 'bead burnisher' in a near vertical position; this way, the burnisher will be able to 'move' the claw over the stone.
REMEMBER that each claw must have little bearings created for each stone.
If the bur is being held crooked, so will be the stone. Always keep the handpiece held vertically at all times.
Final suggestion: clean out each & every hole before all stone setting has started.
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