Gypsy Setting => 20 photos

  "Gypsy", or as it's commonly known as "FLUSH SETTING" is a smooth way to set gemstones in metal.

I'll be using only a "156C, Undercutting bur" to cut a seat for the intended stone.

 How deep should the stone be? Good question, look bellow.

 Where teeth of the 156C bur are sitting is EXACTLY at the top edge of the metal IS EXACTLY WHERE THE STONE MUST SIT.

  There must be a cutting seat all the way around the hole.

 This is exactly where the Girdle of the stone should be seating. Then the Table of the stone will just never protrude above the surface of the ring.

I finally use a #1,000 grit Pumice wheel to smooth the metal after all of hammering has been completed.

With this ultra-smooth surface, I can now easily hammer the surface leaving no indentations anywhere on the ring.

 

When the gemstone is inserted, I will gladly Bright-Cut the inside of the bezel.

  This photo displays how the inside frame is being cut.

 

The Riveting Hammer must have a very smooth surface with NO SURFACE INDENTATIONS IN IT.
I would use a #400 Emery paper to clean the surface.

Here is a great 600x power magnification after the hammering has taken place.

Even after a few taps with the hammer some marks might appear. Just redo the cleaning again.

This is the resurfaced hammer head again.

If there are defects at the hammer head, then these marks will appear in the ring.

 Just before the hammering starts, the stone must be level and not crooked.

 This is my best photo showing the stone after it has been set. 

 Just a footnote: Please use a #800 grit polishing paper to keep the hammer face SMOOTH.

 Make sure that all of your gravers are well maintained.

 To maintain a smooth paper surface, I apply a soft-pencil to increase the grit from #800 up to an estimated #1,200+ grit.