How to set a Marquise Stone into a Bezel => 12 photos

 In this essay, I will attempt to explain the basics of setting a Marquise stone into a Full Bezel ring.

1) The very first step is to clean the inside of the bezel. As you can see that there are remnants of casting metals preventing the stone to be sitting with ease.

2)  A 'bearing cut' is immediately required to ascertain where the stone will sit in the bezel.

3)  The (long) bearing cut will start at the two ends of the bezel.

4)  Place the stone into the bezel and notice just where to points of the stone will be touching.

 

5) Look into your selection of round burs and pick a bur that has the same diameter (thickness) as the girdle of the stone.

6) Use your High Speed Steel (HSS) bur and cut a seat into the bezel at the same depth of the stone. =>This is extremely important.

7) Fit the stone exactly into the bezel!!! With a loupe, check that the stone is sitting level.

8) GENTLY, (I repeat) GENTLY tap the top of the bezel as it must now come in direct contact to the facets of the stone.

9) Tap the Bezel as now the tip must come in immediate contact with all of the contours of the stone.

 =>AVOID ANY SPACES (AS SEEN HERE). DIRT & REFUSE WILL COLLECT IF THERE ARE SPACES NEAR THE ENDS OF THE STONE.

10) Bright-Cut the inside edge of the bezel wall. 

 

   11) Attempt to keep the bezel top flat at all times, as this will aid in the polishing aspect of stone setting.