All about "Polishing Papers" => 18 photos

 There is a symbiotic relationship between the Gravers and the Polishing Papers. The Diamond Setter MUST understand these, papers & blade improvements.

 These two blades will Bright-Cut better than previous, just because of the enhanced metal surface.

  There are 8 different grades of paper to create an ultra-smooth texture. 

 From a #800 grit to a #1,200 grit, the process is frustrating in the labour involved. But the results are well worth the effort as shown.

 I could explore the higher grit of # 1,800, but suffice to say this setter chose to limit the number of papers in polishing new gravers.

 In this photo, I am polishing the surface of a new Flat graver.

  I must lay the new graver on it's side, as I have to prepare the  blade now for Bright-Cutting.

These 4 gravers have been improved by just working with the improved polishing papers.

 All of the polishing papers collectively, have pores in the surface. These paper pore improvements that enhance the polishing to more than 50%.

 Why buy #1,600 grit when you can buy the #1,200 and use the enhanced polishing instead paper?

When the pencil-lead has been filled into the pores, the paper acts differently. The paper will act mildly-smooth, to very smooth.

In this photo, you see just how 'rough' the paper is, but wait a minute!

 Where the soft-pencil lead has been applied, that paper will be lots smoother. The pores of the paper are now filled pencil-lead. This alone makes the paper of #800 equivalent to #1,200.

 This #1,200 grit paper is now at #1,600 grit, instead of buying new paper.

  The very rough #240 grit paper along with the added pencil lead-rubbing will give a new grit texture of #400 grit. WOW!

 There is now a distinct difference of the textures on these new gravers.

 

NEW-Graver Shaping =>19 photos

From this little bench-grinder, I can create well-shaped gravers.

    You can see just where the important beaker of water is located.

This little beaker of water is so very important to the QUICK cooling of the warm< =>hot graver point.

Do not extend the actual graver shaping beyond 2.0 inches from the tip!!

This 2.0 inches is the basis for all of the cutting on this blade.

 The cutting has a curve as shown.

While shaping, there might belittle shavings of metal getting into the skin. PLEASE wear gloves for protection, as shown here.

 The length of the graver & handle should not extrend further than the FIRST FINGER JOINT.

 

When shaping a FLAT GRAVER, this idea is not to cut beyond the first finger joint.

            

                         Keep the graver point area water cooled.

                      

 

 For extensive metal grinding, for the sake of your skin...WEAR GLOVES!!!

 

Never go beyond grinding without immersing the graver tip into water. HEATING actually softens the steel blade.

 The graver tip should look like this rectangle when completed.

I again, shape the front of the Flat graver to be made thin.

 KEEP YOUR BLADES COOL TO THE TOUCH.

 These two graver shapes are the basic shapes in Diamond Setting.

 

How to Harden, or Soften Steel Burnishers => 12 photos

 In these photos here are the burnishers that need desperately to be repaired before being used again.

 These tools are the basis of diamond setting. The first thing we must do is to carefully soften the steel, just to start this delicate process.

Here are these badly worn burnishers that need to be repaired.

 Not every setter has a bench-torch at their disposal, it is best for me to have immediate access a torch of this style. (It allows the steel  burnisher to get hot as required).

 The flame should be aimed exactly at the tip of the tool. Please  let it just 'AIR-COOL', not 'WATER COOLING' IT. The burnisher is now so soft,  you can now file it to your specifications.

(Water-cooling again hardens the steel).

This is the 'tip flame' position that I'm refering to.

To 'cool' the tip of the heated area, of course, don't use your fingers.

 I'd keep the 'bench-torch' stationary and work the burnisher around the flame.

 To HARDEN THE STEEL. Once that the steel is RED hot, drop it quickly into a beaker of water. Immediately the steel will harden.

Always have your beaker of water within hands-reach.

 I keep the 'cooling burnisher' leaning against my bench tray, this will aid in the 'slow, air-cooling' process.

  At the tip of the BLUE FLAME is where you should aim the heat.

 In this position, you now have both hands free to hold the burnisher and pliers.

 

How to set a Marquise Stone into a Bezel => 12 photos

 In this essay, I will attempt to explain the basics of setting a Marquise stone into a Full Bezel ring.

1) The very first step is to clean the inside of the bezel. As you can see that there are remnants of casting metals preventing the stone to be sitting with ease.

2)  A 'bearing cut' is immediately required to ascertain where the stone will sit in the bezel.

3)  The (long) bearing cut will start at the two ends of the bezel.

4)  Place the stone into the bezel and notice just where to points of the stone will be touching.

 

5) Look into your selection of round burs and pick a bur that has the same diameter (thickness) as the girdle of the stone.

6) Use your High Speed Steel (HSS) bur and cut a seat into the bezel at the same depth of the stone. =>This is extremely important.

7) Fit the stone exactly into the bezel!!! With a loupe, check that the stone is sitting level.

8) GENTLY, (I repeat) GENTLY tap the top of the bezel as it must now come in direct contact to the facets of the stone.

9) Tap the Bezel as now the tip must come in immediate contact with all of the contours of the stone.

 =>AVOID ANY SPACES (AS SEEN HERE). DIRT & REFUSE WILL COLLECT IF THERE ARE SPACES NEAR THE ENDS OF THE STONE.

10) Bright-Cut the inside edge of the bezel wall. 

 

   11) Attempt to keep the bezel top flat at all times, as this will aid in the polishing aspect of stone setting.