Updates on 'Polishing Papers' for your gemstone setting.

 It's been a few years since I wrote the first essay on "Polishing Papers". The many uses have changed and so has the need to explore newer examples of how these papers can be used.

 In this 'revised' essay, I'll take a photo of the polishing paper and where each is used. As there are so many photos, I apologise if a few are duplicated.

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There are Emery papers of #240 & #400 grit and then the numbers change as does the grit. But here is a little surprise for you, we can change the paper grit texture within a few moments. 

I'm increasing the 'grit' by using a soft-core, drafting pencil.

 Any available polishing paper may be used with the 'drafting pencil', I used a "Primary #1" grade. It's fantastic how simple this process can be for your setting needs.

 

  This is the pencil that I'm going to use to make some changes to the grit.

The easiest sharpening method is to use a 'snap on' razor blade. This prevents any sharp points while doing the 'rubbing' process.

 

  I always do my 'pencil rubbing' on any Polishing Paper #600 paper grit and higher. I'll avoid the shaping on #240 & #400 grits at all times.

 I attempt to have my drafting pencil at a 45-degree angle. This will give me a wider pencil spread while doing my paper 'rubbing'. 

These two photos show how fast the pencil lead can wear down. Always maintain a good exposure of the pencil lead at all times.

How can a steel mandrel help you in setting stones?

 Before you read my 225th tutorial essay, here are a few more samples of a steel mandrel used in the gemstone setting.

                                                               

                                                            

In my experience, this was the only method in securing this rectangular stone. It proved to be rather successful.

 Ring mandrels are usually for sizing rings, now as well they can be used in "Bezel, Gypsy & Channel" settings. They can free up one or both of your hands, and you can get close to your work and see where the hammer should be touching. 

 One end of the mandrel can be secured to your bench while your 'free hand' can hold the hammer. 

 Some of my "descriptive" photos needed 3-4 hands, but as I only had 2, I tried to 'visually' explain my texts.

 You can easily use your riveting hammer or even the "Adjustable tension, of your Reciprocating Hammer".

  Now why the 'groove' in the mandrel? If the item you are setting has a protruding Culet for some reason. The 'fully rounded' mandrel will have no chance to save the Culet from damage or be ruined by the continuous downward hitting. You can also adjust the force of the 'hitting motion' to suit your taste with your hammer. 

  If you wish to use your 'reciprocating hammer', you can still use your steel mandrel, but now you have a 'free hand' to hold the many stones more securely. Even with any hammering, always check for the 'Culet' exposure.

  This steel mandrel is not only used for checking for finger sizes, but now it's another 'friendly' setting tool. 

 When setting stones in wax, the coolness of the steel mandrel keeps the wax cool at all times. When you are holding your wax in your fingers, the finger warmth will quickly distort (or ruin) the shape of your delicate wax frame.

 Even when keeping the wax for stone setting, the absolute roundness of the mandrel keeps the inside of the ring free of getting out of shape.

In this photo, I'm holding the wax on the mandrel while drilling holes.

 These photos are a collection of very thin wax set rings. There isn't any way I'd hold my fingers on the wax rings while wax setting the stones on these delicate wax rings, as I'd be asking for problems.

 When the setter is required to use the 'reciprocating hammer', always attempt to use the steel hammer as well. The reason is that there will be no collapsing of the 'setting gallery'.

 When the hammering (of any description) is used with a leather insert ring clamp, the leather absorbs all of the DIRECT HITTING FORCE.

 Therefore very little 'direct' hitting action is centred on the ring itself. ALL OF THE HITTING can be measured in "pounds per inch" of downward pressure and all of this will then be transferred to your ring.

Both styles of ring clamps have the same supporting problem, which is the thickness of the leather. Any hammering will not be useful to you.

 A steel mandrel can be also used as a 'third hand' when the moment arises, you can use a riveting hammer also for stone setting. You can easily rest your steel mandrel against your bench and then be totally 'hands-free'.

 I'll still use the steel mandrel for Channel Set rings, I need full 100% security while setting these Rubies.

 Both of my steel mandrels have 'grooves' in them in case any of the stones unexpectedly protruded "Culet Facets".

  I hope that I've succeeded in allowing you to see another setting tool. 

 REMEMBER, THAT THE LEATHER IN THE RING CLAMPS ABSORB THE 'HITTING FORCES'.

Gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com

The many uses of "Pumice Wheels"

 Although there are many hardness and shapes of "Pumice Wheels". The most desirable is the #180 grit as shown in this display. Instead of using a Triangular file of #4 grit, the cleaning wheel keeps all marks of the filing to a safe minimum. Hence, less cleaning from any "Tripoly & Rouge" polishing wheels. In fact, much to return to the original fine edges can be acquired from the use of "Tapered & Flat" Pumice wheels. 

 There is even a #1,000 grit Polishing Pumice Wheel, these are sold in conjunction with the #180 grit wheels. Their colouring is a great idea, as they are only Pink in colour.

 For edges around the setting areas, the need for a fine-edged wheel is far superior, now there is no need for any Emery Wheel or "Pillar" & "Triangular files" with #4 cut. The Emery wheel is too aggressive for any delicate sections near the diamond setting areas.

 These pumice wheels only enhance what is already there, not ruin it.

 Other needs for this cleaning process are prior to the actual setting procedure. It removes many aberrations that may occur while in the casting stages. Once the stones are set, it is really difficult to remove any of the extra flakes of gold. These pumice wheels may be used prior to, or post-gemstone setting.

 BTW, again note, all of these 'Pumice Wheels' come with 'Flat & Tapered' edges. When they get worn down they can be used on the inside of the rings.

 

 These "Snap On, Emery Disks" are of #220 grit (as shown). 

 These are the #1,000 grit, Pink, Polishing Wheels

  Here are a few uses of the Pumice Wheels during my 'ring cleaning'.

 The "Tapered" rotating #180 grit wheel is so easy to use. No cloth polishing wheel can get into these minute areas.

 Here is the Pink #1,000 grit doing its work without ruining the tips of the "V" shaped claws.

 Instead of mishandling the finished tops of any ring, I will rely upon the Pink wheel to assist me.

 In this photo is the rotating "Snap-on" Emery wheel. There is no need to use your Emery stick, why? You just can't see what is going on, you can easily guide the wheel yourself.

 Finally, here is the 'almost, worn down' Pumice Wheel #180 grit, removing any marks prior to the setting of your diamond.

 Hoping you now fully appreciate these Pumice Wheels of both grit textures.

Gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com