Updates on 'Polishing Papers' for your gemstone setting.

 It's been a few years since I wrote the first essay on "Polishing Papers". The many uses have changed and so has the need to explore newer examples of how these papers can be used.

 In this 'revised' essay, I'll take a photo of the polishing paper and where each is used. As there are so many photos, I apologise if a few are duplicated.

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There are Emery papers of #240 & #400 grit and then the numbers change as does the grit. But here is a little surprise for you, we can change the paper grit texture within a few moments. 

I'm increasing the 'grit' by using a soft-core, drafting pencil.

 Any available polishing paper may be used with the 'drafting pencil', I used a "Primary #1" grade. It's fantastic how simple this process can be for your setting needs.

 

  This is the pencil that I'm going to use to make some changes to the grit.

The easiest sharpening method is to use a 'snap on' razor blade. This prevents any sharp points while doing the 'rubbing' process.

 

  I always do my 'pencil rubbing' on any Polishing Paper #600 paper grit and higher. I'll avoid the shaping on #240 & #400 grits at all times.

 I attempt to have my drafting pencil at a 45-degree angle. This will give me a wider pencil spread while doing my paper 'rubbing'. 

These two photos show how fast the pencil lead can wear down. Always maintain a good exposure of the pencil lead at all times.

This pencil lead cannot do what is required, get this pencil lead sharpened again before you do anything else. This lead is really badly worn down.

I will allow only 1/2 of the paper board to be used for the pencil rubbing.

  I like to keep my papers laid out in sequential order, at all times. I don't want to keep looking for the sticks if they are strewn around my bench.

If any papers are not laying flat, tear off that one side and start again.

 Don't use binding wire or elastic bands to hold your paper. I prefer good old-fashioned tape to keep the paper tied down.

 I'm now reshaping my Flat graver, but with my pencil rubbing, my paper could now be #1,000 grit.

 You can see the broken tip of my graver, no problem for me. With my Emery paper at #400 grit, I can easily modify this broken graver to cut again.

 

  To improve further on this graver, I'll proceed to use a Polishing paper of #800.

  All of my gravers are "HSS", aka 'High-Speed Steel', why this? The chances of breaking a point of any graver are kept to a minimum.

 As this graver just got off from the bench grinder, it needs to be polished.

 As in the previous photos, the sequence of 'polishing paper' starts at #600 grit and terminates at #1,200 grit.

  Here is another great idea for using polishing papers, is to clean the surface of your wax creations.

 As a rule and a habit, I keep all of my paper sticks in essential order at all times.

  In this photo, I could have 2-3 sticks of one grit, why so many? Some of these papers have 'pencil modifying' done to them.

  Something went bad here, the 'point of the graver' was dug into the paper by mistake. If this happens too often, tear off that section of the paper as it's now being ruined or destroyed for future use.

 

 The following 6 papers demonstrate which papers to use in order.

 I only use half of the paper board, it's easier for you to gently rub the graver on that short area.

  I 'pencil rubbed' more than I needed, I only use short strokes on the paper.

 Don't press the pencil deeply into the polishing paper. All you are doing is putting the pencil lead into the pores of the paper, nothing else.

 Here is a close-up of how the pores are getting filled with the pencil lead.

 Here is another great idea on how to polish your "hammer face". As seen, I suggest starting with Emery #400 grit paper.

 

 The next polishing paper could be your #800 grit. Then switching to a #800 paper with a modified pencil-rubbed paper. Your hammer will just be like a mirror when finished this process.

 I keep all of my gravers in pristine condition, and frequently I will examine each graver for any cutting problems.

 KEEP YOUR PAPERS FROM GETTING TORN from the graver fixing.

 This #1,200 grit paper when modified, is equivalent to #1,500 +

 From this oilstone process, go right into the paper-polishing. You can't do any Bright Cutting if your graver hasn't been paper-finished.

  

 Any torn paper is 100% useless, get rid of it. The second from the 'left' (#1,200) is an example of not being good to use.

   I keep all of my gravers clean with no existing cutting problems.

All Flat gravers need to have a surface free from any metal-cutting problems.

 Sometimes you can find #2,000 grit paper. If you can, buy a few sheets as they are so helpful.

 I use a pointed awl to scribe the paper when making corners around the wooden stick.

Don't use any binding wire to hold the paper to the stick.

This is one of the main reasons why my gravers are constantly cared for.

 For a quick visual review, here are a few extra photos to be looked at.

 Here is another use of your "#240 Emery" paper, which is to smooth the surface of any wax that you have been working on.

My gravers are always kept from being damaged from touching others.

 Please be careful of torn papers, the graver wasn't held in a proper flat position.

In these photos, you can see how the gravers are held in a position to polish the side of the cutting blade

 Only one side of this graver will be used, with many thanks to these GREAT Polishing Papers.

 This graver is going to be named "Right-Sided, Onglette cutting blade"

I sincerely hope that you've learned some extra points in using your 'Polishing Papers'.