"Diamond Setting Tools that are needed" (8,196 words)

I wrote this tutorial essay with only YOU IN MIND.

 I wanted you to know just how important it is to have a wide selection of tools at your disposal. Not every tool will be used, but its good to be a "Tool oriented Diamond Setter".

This essay took me about 2 months in the writing, thinking, editing, grammar-editing, selection of the necessary tools, punctuation.   Plus editing the multiple times...then posting this essay.                                                                                                                                 This essay has 8,196 words in total, by no means was this an easy exercise!                            

Optical – Visor, w/ #5 lens attached.

Saw frame with adjustable frame length.    

Saw blades of number # 4/0.

Oil stone, double sided, “Arkansas”, 8 inches in length.

Bud burs, 3/32’’ shaft, numbers # 006 - # 012.

Ball burs, 3/32’’ shaft, numbers # 006 - # 032.             

Under–Cutting burs, “156 C” # 010

Cup Burs, “77 B”, #010 - # 022

“High Speed Steel” 90-angle bearing cuts, 4.50 mm.

Wooden Bur boxes,

Pillar files, wide, #2 - #4 cut, 20 cm’s. In length

Triangular files, #2 - #4 cut, 20 cm’s. In length

Blue Gray pumice wheels, #180 grit, Tapered & Flat edge

Pink Pumice, wheels (Flat &Tapered) #1,000 grit

Emery paper “Snap-On” disks, (Medium grit)

Pliers, small sized, with pointed jaws                                                    

Pliers, Large sized, pointed jaws

Side Holding, metal ring clamp

“Setters Hold-It” mini-vise

“Tube–Setting” clamp

Wooden ring clamps

Nylon Brushes and more.

Lubricating oil, light-viscosity

“Emery Paper” (as described)

“Polishing paper” (as described)    

Paint stirring sticks, for the Polishing & Emery papers

Onglette, Gravers # 1, and # 2

“Flat”, Gravers # 40

Mandrel, with groove

Ten Power loupe

Pair of Safety glasses

Plastic Peg Board

Elbow Cushion

Thumb guards

Mixture, of Bee’s Wax & Charcoal

Florescent light bar

Hand-held Hammer

Brass, Copper & Steel pushers

“Ergonomic” chair

Steel, Ring Mandrel with groove

Flex-Shaft, hand-pieces

“Flake Shellac”

“Ultra-Sonic” cleaner

Steam Machine

Reciprocating, Flex-shaft Hammer

Butane “Mini-Torch”

Alcohol lamp

Interchangeable, Graver handle

  “EXPLANATION & DESCRIPTION OF DIAMOND SETTING TOOLS!”

  My personal choice of tools and why!

     I have been asked of my choice of tools, on many occasions. This is from my students, or even some folks on another jewellery resource educational programs. After careful deliberation, I have compiled a detailed list of some necessary items that every setter should have within arms-reach. All of these items should be, as I just stated, “within arm reach”!  Not forcing your hand or your fore-arm to mess up some diamonds laying systematically on your bench. But your tools should be carefully laid out, basically, on the side of your bench-top.

    We all sit on chairs, yes, but comfortably? Almost! I will buy the best secretarial chair that is on the market. If I have to sit for many hours a day and I must give support to my lower back and lumbar regions. What I will spend on this chair will make me that much more money down the road.

   The fluorescent light bars are generally one of the most overlooked pieces of lighting equipment. If you cannot see what you are doing, well then get off your chair and get another profession! Lights and chair, should be foremost in any occupation. I use a three-bulb fixture at my bench, I usually pay the few extra dollars, why? How can I see if the beads are over the diamonds.  When I go travelling, I bring my additional light bar with me.

 

“High Speed Steel burs”

  This fantastic bur does what that the ‘156C’ cannot do, it cuts deeper into the metal at a ‘controlled rate’. There is no guessing or going over each cut. This one bur can in one simple cut, make a place for the Pavilion to rest against. The teeth are so further apart, it literally ‘chews away’ at the metal. This same bur will make a ‘bearing cut’ at the same time in cutting.

The “156C” bur is meant for mini-cluster patterns, not for Engagement rings, 4-claw or 6-claw patterns. The HSS bur is “Case-Hardened”, it is meant for long-term, aggressive usage! The 156C bur was not meant for this aggressive cutting process and can get burned even while being used. For an analogy, “would you use a little shovel to remove earth in building a basement?”

“Setters, Hold-it”

  This little hand-held apparatus can hold linked bracelets, albeit as many that will fit in the mini-jaws. The top flat plate moves & will secure the links as the setter wishes. Is it worthwhile buying? YES! I’ve used this for setting stones in tennis-bracelets and other linked items!

 “Mini-Torch!”

 Why would a setter have this in his bench? The answers are many, instead of using a torch to melt shellac or even preparing to heat up an item. This little micro-torch will fit just nicely in the back of your pan. No need to have large tanks in your room, this little mini-torch just suites me fine! If you need to anneal a bur that requires immediate reshaping, you must ‘soften it’ by heating it. Reshape and then reheat again by dropping it in cold water.

See why some setters use this? I’ve had my mini-torch for years. I use it to reshape ‘anvils’ on my special reciprocating hammer.

 

“4-wire, stone examining tool!”

 When asked to do a pre-examination of a stone, prior to setting. This little item can save $$ in your pocket in case you miss an inclusion that can cause stone chipping. It’s not easy to examine a stone in your fingers. Either you could drop it or miss something important. Holding a stone in this wire-tool, is so handy and you can see so much at once and nothing is covering any part of the stone. Worth buying what do you think?

 “Inside Ring-Holder”

 I’ve had mine for over 25 years, and no reason to put it down. The handle is made of wood and it has a slender dowel-handle to hold. There is no possibility for the ring to get loose while being used. Worth buying, you bet it is! The inside plastic insert has ring sizes from a size 5 to size 8+. So very handy to have!

 “Stones IN your bench-peg?”

 Just where else would you put them at a moment’s notice? BTW, don’t put too many at once, I only put a few at a time, why? Let’s suppose that you have to do some hammering, guess what might happen? “Whoops”

  “Polishing Gravers”

  I could spend a whole week discussing this topic. There are only 5 Emery & Polishing papers that you need. This is to transform a piece of rough looking steel into a ‘surgical-style’ metal cutting instrument. Starting off with the Emery paper #240 - #480 paper to remove any gouges in the new blade. Then ending off with the polishing papers #600 - #800 – #1,000 and then a soft pencil-rubbing to get an equivalent of a #1,200 grit paper from the #1,000 paper. BTW, there must not be any marks in or around the cutting sides of any blade. All papers are wrapped around your ‘paint-stirrer’ sticks. These sticks can be picked up at any paint-store of your choice.

 “77B”, aka “Cup Burs”.

  One of the most interesting burs in any setter’s inventory is also the most expensive, why so? It has only one use and that is to round off mini-claws in a cluster design pattern. Once you emery down the tips of the claws then just place your bur at a 15-degree angle back from vertical and start your motor. The design of these burs is very interesting, as the teeth of this bur are inside of the ‘cup’. But I’ve modified them as I can round off the large claws even next to an Emerald with no danger to the genuine Emerald! BTW, I would first trim the claws to be thinner as to make the claw more aesthetic and, not to mention if any inclusions are in the diamond.

My dear readers, these few items are just the basics, so now let’s continue reading.               When I am buying replacement bulbs, I buy “15 Watts/Cool White” colour and then I purchase two more for reserve. I never spare the dollar! There is, and will be, an eye-strain on you, if one of the bulbs are not working.   The constant ‘flickering’ of the remaining bulbs now pulsate at 15 times a second, not seen by you, but your eyes do pick up the bulbs’ these are internal neon gas pulsations. The result is a tiring eye-strain, and the subsequent eye-twitching from you…not a good sign! Therefore, each bulb has to cancel out the other bulbs “unseen” pulsations!  This is the reason you must not keep looking at a monitor computer screen for long periods of time.

In closing, buy a “three bulb fluorescent light fixture” instead of the cheaper, two bulb instrument.

 Then you will be a happy camper/setter!  Now that I’ve lightly touched on these few items, let’s now review the original listing of “Diamond Setting Tools” in greater detail.                                                                                   

At this juncture, let me just state that these are now my own preferences, not anyone else’s. Now just sit back, relax, read and above all. LEARN!

   “Disclaimer of Chosen tools!”

  I might use the correct names of manufacturers during this detailed selection of tools. There are other manufacturers with brand names, but the choice is yours to make. I will only suggest a setting tool that I am currently using. Do not take “my choice” as the only tool as your new preference. Experiment, modify, now you have base to start from.  I am not here to teach you, but I am here to assist you in making the right selection when purchasing the correct tools.                                                       

 If I make your purchasing easier and making you the more ‘informed buyer’, so be it. Then this essay has been worthwhile. If I show you some easier techniques in setting along the way and you learn them, fantastic! 

As swell if I am writing in too much in detail, well that’s what this discipline is, ‘full of details’. I’ve only now touched the surface.

“Optical Visor”.

     I suggest now that I would normally use a number #5 lens, why? If you prefer a number #7 you will have to bend over the bench peg closer to see. This will give you neck strain, and upper back pain will shorten your work time at the bench. I notice that some setters are using only number #3 lens.

This again is not strong enough and the length from your eyes to your bench-peg is too far. You might be having to keep the “setting object” at a greater distance.  Now let’s just stick with the favourite lens of number #5.                                                                                       

 Saw Frame!

 This well used item should be finger tightened, not with the pliers bolting device. If you must tighten the saw blade, try only “finger                               
tight”. You might purchase a saw frame that will allow you to extend the length of the frame to make sure you are grasping the blade fully.
 You should oil the blade holding-clamps near the “wing-nut”. Occasionally clean out the inside of the grasping areas of the blade, as dirt collects in these jaws and do not allow full gripping action.

Saw Blades.

 I will only use #4/0 blades because for the width/thickness and the number of teeth per inch. I always buy one gross, (twelve dozen). In case of an emergency if you only have 12 units you might break a few at one setting and be totally short during the off hours of the local tool supply store. Buying one gross could be cheaper for you as well!

 

“Arkansas”, Oil Stone.

 Here is the correct name of the right tool to use. Buy only a “two- sided” stone. Each side has the same grit and texture on BOTH sides. When the one side is ground down with ridges from your gravers, turn it over and “voila! New stone again”!

 Wooden Bur Boxes.

 It is here I use many boxes, one for each selection of precision type of burs, 1.0 - 1.2mm twist drills, large bud burs (#031 – # 045), large round burs (#030 – #050), large undercutting 156C, and then two boxes of new & “High Speed Steel”, #90 angle bearing makers. Six boxes in total kept within reach. There should be a fine layer of foam padding in each box, try and keep your burs moist with little dabs of oil, at all times. Rust is our constant enemy!!                                               

Lubricating Oil

I use either “Norton” or “3 &1” oil that can be found in any local hard-ware supply store. If failing this, try ordinary motor oil, with a slightly thicker viscosity. Keep all of the drills and burs well lubricated, I am not asking you to do this, “but pleading with you”. These little steel burs just love to be well taken care of. Some of my burs are $20.00 to $30.00 EACH+, then I make sure my initial investment is nicely looked after. “Oil is cheap…not the burs!!” 

  Half-round, large burs

  What is this little item? You will see my new addition to this tool selection, it’s so simple. It’s a wonder that no one else has thought of this. A half-round, grind off the top part of the curve bur is used as a Cabochon fitting bur. I would use my bench-grinder for this process. The gentle curve on the bur, should be the same angle as the sides of the Cab. Stone. With this new designed bur, there will be no wasted metal being removed as to the correct inside concave angle to the wall of the bezel.

  

Nylon brushes

 I use four kinds of brushes, one is very common, how about a simple used only when you are cleaning gold ejecta with the diamonds still sitting loose in the gold.
mention that before each diamond is inserted into the gold for beading or claws setting all refuse MUST BE REMOVED!                                                                                                      
  This will clean the surface but not jar the unset stones. When you are cleaning the bearing cuts in larger claws, you could use a toothbrush. 

 Pumice wheels!

When I finish setting, I will always look after my finished setting project with a thorough inspection. It is a part of my “quality and pride”. I always entertain the idea that someone else will inspect my setting and be critical. I don’t wish to ‘just set and walk away’. The pumice wheel is what separates the “setters of quality”, to just stone-setting. I will buy $300.00 per year, just on purchasing the different kinds of Pumice wheels. There are two wheels in my bench, “Flat Edge” and the “Tapered Edge”.

Each of these two designs are very essential in cleaning your precious metal.  I will use these to prevent severe cloth-wheel polishing to clean my work. If I want sharp edges on my claws, the only method is to enhance the design is with these two little ¾ inch, #180 grit, pumice wheels. Their colouring is a “bluish gray”.

 Emery Paper Disks    The disks that I’m comfortable with ”Moore’s” paper Discs, “Medium” Grit”. I find that the finer grit do wear away to the paper base too fast. The “Course Grit” take too much off the gold at one clean-up. Now with the “Medium” grade, you are able to control the sanding process. Do not speed up the motor speed to just to remove any marks on the gold. I would use a slightly slower speed, then you can moderate the cleaning on the finer sections near the diamonds.

“Control, is the name of the game”. You have more control of the sanding processes.

 Pink Pumice Wheel                                                            

Another pumice you could buy is a “Pink” @ #1,000 grit, coloured wheel. This is used only for trying to assist the polisher to get into areas where he can’t with his thick buffs and split-lapping wheels. This wheel has a grit of #1,000, instead of the #180 grit as described before. You should be very selective in the type of wheel & shape you need, fine point or the flat edged wheel. The results will be absolutely fantastic!

 Metal Ring Clamps

       Many years ago, I bought some metal ring clamps. Bad move! I found that my hand could not perspire. When you are gripping sometimes with tension, the skin of the hand has an awful means of getting rid of the build-up of perspiration, but with wood there is no effort in accomplishing this natural action. Metal can be heavier and cooler to the touch. The “locking devices” can interfere with your hands is not satisfying to the setter for long periods. There is one kind of ring clamp around, it has a “screw and hinged” (similar to a hands or fingers). Who wants this? As for wood, the tapered insert that is used in between the wooden clamp jaws have a tendency to break the brass-holding secure-rings that wrap around the clamp. If you are not tapping it into the clamp securely, the ring will become loose. The life of the clamp is measured in weeks. Why? When you attempt to hammer-tighten to push the ‘triangular peg’ further into the clamp, just to secure the ring, the clamp actually breaks. My personal experience now stops me from buying this clamp again. Good-bye clamp! I know, I have one of these for display purposes only!

 

 Ten (10x) Power Loupe

There are many brands and designs on the open market. I would suggest a “Triplet Magnification Loupe” This style of apparatus has three lens in the eye-piece. The other kinds are just hand magnifiers, nothing else. There is a common aberration of the lens with these mediocre styles of lens. Basically, you get what you pay for! For an honest, dependable magnifier, use the “10x Triplet”, nothing else!                                            

Elbow Cushion

     If you don’t work without an elbow cushion, you will endangering your little bunch of nerves in your elbow-slot. This area is called the “Ulnar- nerve” if you are continually leaning on them, you will definitely find that your fingers are tingling and some numbness will occur in years to come.

 

Plastic, Peg-Board

This is one of the simplest space-saving requirements for any jeweller or diamond setter. Simple, basic, clean to use, and orderly. Did I say orderly? I have only 7 of these little pads on my bench. I never allow loose burs of any size, to clutter my working area. It is here, that I use these boards to hold my burs in sequential order (if needed) and each of these boards have only one shape of burs. I know at a moment’s instance where each bur will be located. For an estimated $12-15.00 each peg-board, its money saved in time lost in locating one bur among hundreds. 

 Bench Grinder!

 You can buy any of these 3,450 rpm, 5” inch wheel grinders at any hardware store. I have mine at arms reach and close by my bench. Along side of this, is a little receptacle of water to cool down the gravers, I am grinding. I prefer to keep the wheels’ rotating axis at near eye level.

 Safety Glasses!

One of the most overlooked safety features we completely ignore is the safety for our eyes. Why? Do we not have only one pair of eyes? If these are damaged what can we do then?

Once saw a stone setter sit at his bench some years ago and was attempting to cut some gold. One of the shards of gold “hit” his cheek and then subsequently glanced upwards and damaged his cornea. The agony of the pain was so much that I took him to the hospital  Emergency Room. There was no long lasting tissue damage, thankfully. When I am using the bench grinder for example, I wear two types of glasses. 

My “Opti-Visor” 

“Bi-Focal” lenses. My eyes are too precious to hurt by hot granules of corundum and graver steel being ejected off the rotating grinding wheel and damaged his cornea. The agony of the pain was so much that I took him to the hospital Emergency Room. There was no long lasting tissue damage, thankfully. When I am using the bench grinder for example, I wear two types of glasses. My “Opti-Visor” and also my close fitting to my face, “Bi-Focal” lenses. My eyes are too precious to hurt by hot granules of corundum and graver steel being ejected off the rotating grinding wheel.

 

Thumb guards!

 Now this seems like a simple excuse to add more words to this page. If you are a novice at using the Onglette of Flat-gravers, trust me on this extra feature for your “thumb safety”. If you go to any office-supply store, please, for the protection of your “thumb pads”, buy these little rubber protectors. They will definitely protect your thumb-pad skin. These guards are a real necessity! The reason is that the thumb has a tendency to move under the sharp knife edge of the graver causing line carvings in your thumb.

Sometimes the graver might break the skin and while working, dirt enters your finger and you might even get an infection. Do you want this to happen? The thumb numbers is either #12 for the Ladies & #14 for the Men.

                                                                                    

Small Jaw Pliers. 

 Many of my students go to their local hardware store and pick up some cheaper pairs of pliers. Why buy the expensive tools if you can use the cheaper non-jewellery store supply? I always believe in modifying the initial design. I will observe their introduction in using the bench grinder in modifying the pliers’ jaws. I will ‘finish off’ the rough edges from the rough grit of the wheels. You should also do this with an emery paper of #1 grit. Smooth away all of the sharp edges. Your sensitive skin will be cut very easily if not attended to at this point. I will use these pliers for the average cluster mounts and or engagement rings. I only have at least 12 sets of pliers in my inventory. Each set of pliers are used for many kinds of setting. You have to be 100% prepared.      

   Long-Nosed Pliers 

I would use these pliers only for hard to reach and delicate areas not easily accessible as with the “short-nosed version”.  If for some reason the outside of the pliers are rounded, I would use this section for reaming open a bezel and to almost stretch the “bezel walls” further apart. Another idea on pliers; With a Corundum cutting wheel, or as it’s called a “Separating Disc”, make little grooves near the tip or points. This is when you are pulling or just moving the plier tips, the jaws while in motion won’t slip off and damage the claw while securing the stones. When I’m finished, I’ll just smooth over the ‘disk-cuts’ with a pumice wheel.         

End or Side-Cutting Pliers

These cutters can be used in lieu of the sanding disk. You will have more control as to the length of the claws that should be shortened. I use only “Lindstrom”, very strong, the jaws will maintain the cutting edge.  I have two styles, one is a side-cutting and the other is a front-cutting. You can use either, whatever you are comfortable with. 

                                     

Hammer 

The weight of a comfortable hammer is about 85 – 100 grams, but with a wooden handle. You should notice here that the “swinging action” from the wrist must be light enough but with enough downward force to give strength in the hammering action. The “front face” of the hammer is very important, it should and must be cleaned off regularly. If there are any pits or defects in the “face”, these will be easily transferred on to the Gold or Platinum bezel. Clean with an Emery #240, Emery #480 paper you’re Polishing paper #600 then lastly, Polishing paper #800. You must check this at least every few days or under busy setting conditions.

“End-Holding”…metal ring clamps

These ring clamps must be metal as in this style along with a metal screw. The ring will never get loose during the setting procedure. I use this clamp when I am ONLY setting stones on the side of the mount and then the locking-screw is plier tightened, the ring will secured in a horizontal position. No movement, no slipping, no way!

Tube Setting

 Holder with a wooden handle. I use this for tube & bezels and ‘earring studs’ or individual settings before soldering into pendants. Each individual holder kit comes with a wide selection of various chucks.    

 Steel Ring Mandrel  (these must always have a ‘recessed’ groove)

 When is this used and how? This little item is used when you are hammering on white gold for instance. It frees up one of your hands, as when you are applying the ‘reciprocating’ hammer. You can have the hammer blows’ deal directly to that “impact spot” on the gold and at the same time holding the diamond securely. You need to obtain a mandrel with a groove, if when setting a deep stone, then the culet won’t get broken.

 Oil Receptacle

This item should be situated next to your working area. What I use as a container, is a ladies ‘make-up’ container. Place a small piece of cloth in the plastic-container to hold the machine oil these can be bought in any hardware store. Screw on the lid and then the oil won’t evaporate!

 Brass, Copper and Steel Pushers

These are used to stabilize a diamond before the beading is done. Another tool is a Brass pusher, to “Gypsy Set” a diamond on the Gold or Platinum. Make sure that the “face” is flat and without any noticeable marks or defects. The reason being is that these marks can be transferred onto the gold and will be rather difficult to remove.

 Steel Pusher This one implement was be used with greater care when pushing metal tight over a stone. The chances of slipping are great and slipping ‘might’ occur. If you need to use a steel-pusher, have the tip serrated as to not let any problems start.        

 B r a s s   P u s h e r

     You can your purchase this “3/16th” inch diameter rod at any electrical supply store or automotive shop, in the “welding section”.  Once you have a good size round wooden handle that fits your palm of your hand, drill a hole that will now receive this brass rod. I would now shape the tip, so it looks rectangular in shape.  How long should it be?
As while you are holding it, it should not extend further than your tip of the middle finger. Remove all marks on this ‘new’ hand-made tool. This my be used for securing diamonds prior to bead raising, moving over Gold in Gypsy Setting a.k.a. “Flush Setting. Pressing down Platinum, do not use steel on this metal, this is highly unadvisable. It can be used only to “lightly” push over soft gold claws.                          

 Copper Pusher 

     The description of this construction, is the same as in the Brass Pusher. The uses for this tool is as follows. Securing softer stones in setting Emeralds, Aquamarine, Blue-Topaz, and Turquoise. This Copper is ‘softer’ than the aforementioned, Brass. The very fact that this tool is softer on the more precious stones lends you the reader setter not to be any more concerned in setting the softer stones.               

             

 F I L E S!      

 All files should be of 20 cm’s in length. 8 inches in length.

 P i l l a r:  # 1, # 2 cut.  T r i a n g u l a r:  # 2, # 4 cut!                                      

     The "Forward File Stroke” or pressure action for the removal of the metal. Why must you always compensate for action taken by a file that is not up to your filing needs? This is one good reason why the wider “Pillar” and thicker file, are more suitable for any filing motions. 

I also use an indelible ink marker number at the base of the file to indicate what grit this file is. This “marking” system on all of files is for easy retrieval.

In the process of filing: I would use the coarser number #1 cut and then switch over to the number #2 cut for the final cleaning and removal of unnecessary amount of gold.

  For trimming:  I use only Triangular Files!  

     Again, all of my files are one standard length, 20 cm’s, or as it’s known in

as 8 inches. What can the Triangular file do that the Pillar cannot finish?

 For one thing it can get into areas where a thicker Pillar file can’t reach

 It can do intricate trimming, filing end-bezels on baguettes, trimming

solitaire Engagement claws, filing ‘shared’ claws below the setting

areas. How about fancy cut “Vee” claws on Pear and Marquise stones,

reducing the sizes of thick claws before using the 77B (cup burs).

For this purpose of cleaning, don’t use the #2 cut. Realizing that the #2 cut will leave further serrated files marks wherever you touch the metal. On this note, please use only the #4 cut of all files, for all the final cleaning.

I suggest using only #005 -> #009. In this series of explanations, I will show you, the reader, that there is a total different use for these burs.

Bud Burs 

I use a small bud bur to ‘deepen & accentuate the separation’ between “shared claws” that are opposing each other. You are basically making the claws ‘longer’. This bur will take the place of a very thin file, if none are available. If claws were not in great detail after casting I will use these burs again for this very delicate cleanup. These are called my “Buddy-Burs”.                                      

I even sometimes use a bur, for example, #006 to initiate a bearing cut in small earring claws and allowing a quick placement for the 156C undercutting bur. Slightly ‘move’ a hole in one direction if it was incorrectly drilled opened.

 I will then lean the cutting of this small bur, just on “one side of the hole” and make the cutting wider & larger than the hole that is now being “moved”.

I will use a bud bur and use the many angles of this bur, and gradually open up the base of the hole, to now facilitate the ‘in-between’ size of the diamond. With all of these helpful hints for this bud bur, now you know why I call this bur my “Buddy Bur”!!

 

Round Bur  

Using only sizes #006

   Yes, we all know what a round bur can do, there are some other uses also and here are some! When preparing a channel setting, I will use a smaller bur than the diamond. This way it’s to make a ‘seat’ for the stone to sit on and clear a path for the next step of the channel setting.

 When I am to prepare a large “4 claw setting”. I will always use a large round bur increase the depth into the gold. This is to prevent the Diamond Culet in not touching the base of any Engagement ring.

In a “free-form” ring, I will generally use a smaller round bur to make sure that there is no ‘little extra’ of gold laying around the setting area I will most of the time speed up the little round bur to simulate polishing or grinding the metal prior to setting. This will give the “polishing stage” an easier chance to clean and finish the hard to reach areas.

   Even if there are some minor ring ‘details’ that need to be pierced through from a poor casting, I will use the finer #007 round bur, to accomplish this “clean up”. With a very delicate mini-cluster 4-claw area, I will use on most occasions, the small #007 round bur.

 1)This is to ascertain that the inside of the small cluster settings are free of ANY amounts of gold that do not belong there.                   

  2) In the case of a "Bezel Setting" wall, prior to setting a Cabochon stone, I will at all times use a fine round #007 bur. This is to ascertain that the Cabochon stone is sitting correctly around the bearing cuts made by your HSS bur.                      

    I will only use a “High Speed Steel”, HSS 90-angle bur!

The main purpose of this bur, is to create a ‘groove’ in the metal, this to bear the “weight” of a stone. This groove will make a place for the pavilion of the stone to sit in the claw, in question. The size of this bur is to the diamond, should be no more than 75% size of the stone to be set. The corresponding height should not be more that 30% from the claw tip. All measurements can be made visually. While making a bearing cut, it is imperative to keep the shaft of the bur vertical at all times during the ‘grooving’ process. If this is not done, you will not have the diamond sitting in this ‘bearing cut’ correctly and sufficiently to have you classed as a quality setter.

   If any of the teeth of any bur have “shiny edges”, this means this bur is not useful and needs to recut! This being said, the “shiny edges” mean that the sharp teeth are worn down will not cut gold sufficiently. They are only sliding around the claw. One of most well used tools is my “oil receptacle”, this gives the metal a chance to be removed while rotating against the metal.

If you speed up the motor, this action will definitely heat up the bur. The resulting action will soften the ‘hardness’ that was made for us to use.

If you are not sure if the bur is cutting, look through your 10x loupe and check for build-up of gold on the bur and make sure that the teeth are sharp! When ordering burs of any size, don’t just buy one a “six pack” of burs…. I usually buy two dozen of EACH size and stock up! 

 “Flex-Shaft” hand-piece”

  What good is a correctly sought out bur, if you don’t have an easy to use, comfortable Light weight, hand-piece? I have two styles at my bench, at arms reach. These are two "Foredom" tools, one is a “Micro-Motor”, and the other is a lightweight, plastic handled “Push *n Pull” quick release, all maintenance free! If these tools are well looked after, there is a good chance that you can have a comfortable relaxing decade doing your setting.           

 

Reciprocating Hammer a.k.a. “Electric Hammer".

 This little invention is a boon to many setters who do not have the power in the hand to keep pushing over the metal. It comes with variable tension adjustments and can hammer over metal on the softest stone; Emeralds, Turquoise The care given to these stones is a learned level on how this modern tool works, its applications are endless. The needs will over-shadow the initial investment. I buy only the best there is on the market, mine comes with a ‘flex-shaft’ handle for easy usage. I prefer the Swiss made “Bedaco” instruments.

  I once used a Reciprocating hammer on a 5 ½ carat Emerald set in a Full-bezel frame. The stone was worth $13,500 at that time.

There are some less expensive ‘reciprocating hammers’ that come in various tool suppliers, but they have a mixture of plastic and metal, “penny-wise and a dollar foolish”. (I will not mention them in this article).

 I never lend out my tools, neither should you! I did this once, and it cost me mega-bucks’ for the repair bill.

   I find that the best affect is when you are hammering on a steel mandrel. The subsequent ‘hitting’ is not absorbed into the wooden ring clamp. While hammering on the mandrel, you are now freeing up two hands for the setting. As in the wooden clamp, you are tying up one hand just for holding the clamp. This can be unwise! I rarely use the stronger heavy hitting action this hammer comes with, hardly ever. I will re-shape the “hitting anvil” to a flat surfaced, rectangular shaped, blemish free, mini-tool. With this new tool and tip, you will have years of great setting, worry free!

Ultra-Sonic Cleaning apparatus.

 In this machine, all the grunge of polishing and gold particles will be nicely removed.  It separates all of the alcohol and shellac that was held in suspension. It will also attempt to remove all gold dust UNDER the diamonds, if there were any. It will test the security of the stones of your setting. I say on many an occasion, I prefer to have the diamond come out in this machine, its worse than the customers hands. It can lead to some very embarrassing moments.

                                    

Alcohol Lamp

Just what every setter needs, this a very simple item to explain. It consists of a Bunsen burner or alcohol lamp. This following igniting substance will not leave any residue on the jewellery when being heated.  It’s called “Methyl Hydrate”, do not buy “Bisoprolol Alcohol”. This will definitely leave a black residue and will give heat, but the smudging will be hard to remove. Keep the wick covered at all times, as the alcohol has a great tendency to evaporate.

 

Steam Machine

    A setter with his own steam machine? I use it for heating up the alcohol to facilitate the easy removal of shellac off my settings. To remove minute polishing particles that may be overlooked in the ‘sonic-cleaner’.

Another use, is to just clean up the residue from inside of the small areas of where the stones are sitting. I prefer steam of 40 lbs. pressure for a very thorough cleaning.

 Orange Flake-Shellac

      This is one good friend of mine at my bench, trust me! I use this compound constantly to hold intricate, odd-shaped items that are to be set. I will, when heated, with the burner support all ‘the areas’ to be set with this substance. When it is heated, it oozes and is very hot. Do not let this ‘oozing’ drip onto your skin, it burns and I have enough old blisters on my fingers that can attest to this fact! To remove this shellac, melt it off with the burner and leave in a jar of “Methanol Hydrate” sitting on the hot steam machine surface. This will rapidly remove all of the shellac and next you can do the clean-up and testing with the sonic-cleaner, or steam machine.

Here is a quicker way, put your glass jar with the alcohol into the sonic-cleaner, both the heated solution, along with the alcohol vibrating will hasten the removal of the shellac
This works all the time when you are rushed to get things done fast the forms this shellac comes is in a “flake consistency or as in a stick. I prefer the "Flake" type.

                         

“Flex-Shaft”, Motor

     One thing I have to say on this matter, full r. p. m. is not required! What are we really looking for when purchasing a motor? We are looking for maintenance free, how slow will it work? It all depends of the foot rheostat, we will never in all of our setting days “rev” up the motor. The correct length is as follows; does your hand-piece hang freely off the Bench-pan?

   

When you secure the motor to the wall or metal post, the shaft should end resting alongside your setting hand! Do not leave too much room for your leg to stretch out to activate the foot rheostat.

The height of the motor & with the hand-piece should be of enough length so it is not again touching the bench pan. This length should just be above your pan, so this way it won’t damage the bur tip as it is not being needed.       

 Do not let the "tool shop retailers" sell you on highest possible speed, we do not need them. Buy extra “bushings” for the motor. 

Grease the inner shaft with a heavy-duty grease, not oil, this will prevent noise and over-heating of the shaft. 

Clean the "very end tip of the rotating shaft end" as it connects to your inside of the hand piece. Dirt often collects here!

  Alcohol Lamp: aka Bunsen burner                      

 I use now just for this melting of the Flake Shellac a low heat source of my portable mini-torch. I can regulate the heat as needed. With the Alcohol lamp there is always a danger of the alcohol spilling out through the next and causing a fire! I just threw that glass beaker into the garbage. The liquid did just do that one day at work, all of the liquid just bathed my bench-pan! Ugly sight and a great scare.

THESE ARE MY “PERSONAL FRIENDS” AT MY BENCH!

Gravers                                  Polishing and Emery Papers

Onglette #1, #2                 Emery paper, #240, #400 grit

Flat, #39, #40                   Polishing paper #600, #800, #1,000 

How to prepare your ‘polishing papers’ to a wooden stick!     

This is going to be a lo-o-ong description of all the above requirements, so take your time and read, slowly!

 If you go to your friendly ‘paint store’ and look around for some wooden

paint stirrer sticks, buy only 4 (four). That’s all you need for this exercise.

Start with the edge of the wooden stick at the very end of the paper and

watch that both are aligned equally. Score the other edge that will be bent

over with a small pointing device, but do not tear the paper. Keep turning

over the wooden stick, score and turn again, score the paper till all of the

paper is wrapped around the stick. Tie up the two ends with elastic bands or

adhesive tape.                                   

Do not staple or use “binding wire”, this might hit your fingertips. Do all of the wrapping with the next three series of papers. Try and achieve sharp edges to the now wrapped paper boards. Now this is done,                                     

     We can go to the next level of smoothing out our gravers. With your Emery paper #1, now slowly smooth out the beveled areas near the forward section of your graver and keep the “barrel shape”. As you will need this concaved angle for future cutting work.    

 

Try and remove much of the ‘rough edges’ on the Onglette blade. The use of a 10x power loupe is much needed, why? 

   To observe if most of the scratches are being removed during these initial smoothing stages. As you are smoothing out the roughness, do not “flatten out” the barrel-contours on the blade, this is so-o terribly important

  Now let’s got to the Emery paper #400, a bit smoother but still not finished or maybe halfway, continue to do your gentle smoothing and now try to remove the last remaining ‘deep marks’ left from the factory while in the making of this precision cutting tool. Go over again all of the two sides of the Onglette blade smooth till you can see some improvement on the sides, near the knife edge on your graver.

Do not attempt to remove the knife-edge off the Onglette graver.

  If you do, you are ruining the cutting blade for which it is was originally been made. I would suggest that you hold the graver with your hand and gently ‘rock’ the graver and keeping the emery board still, but resting the board on your bench peg. Let your graver do the cutting or twisting as you require. Let the blade be nearer to your eyes, for easy examination, as the need is required.

 The “finishing” is always done with a forward action and taking longer strokes. You are now “finishing” the exposed length of the graver at this point, (handle to point), not necessarily the area you need right now. Do not, or never use a sanding disk to ’cut corners’, it just doesn’t work, you will leave deeper gouges in the steel.

 I prefer using only “Muller”, “Lyons”, or “Grobet” gravers and prefer to keep my selection to a minimum. I am very satisfied with these manufacturers.

With the “High Speed Steel” (hardness), the chances of the knife-edge being damaged, is kept to a minimum.

    Now that we have finished the “Emery” section of preparing the graver, lets now proceed to the next level of cleaning, “the Polishing Papers”.

 We will now be using Polishing Paper #600. Now with this paper we do not have to smooth the blade so deeply we are now going to GENTLY rub and shine the steel to a finer finish.

Now it’s time to carefully use a finer grit of #1.000 grit paper to get this tool to be more of a precision cutting tool. Repeat the same technique in finishing as with the emery paper, but remember that we are now just smoothing out the steel to a higher luster.

The soft angular motion is still much required on the lower barrel shape. Watch very carefully that no ‘flat areas’ will be made, anywhere.  Keep the soft barrel shape rolling action on both sides of this graver.

If, in this section of cleaning, you notice some little areas of scratches that were overlooked, go back to the Emery Paper. “Smooth out” further as the polishing will not be able to clean sufficiently, the papers are made very differently!! 

 Now you can go the next and almost final stage of poling and that’s with the Polishing Paper #1,000. Use the rolling action but lots more gently and you will see a brighter finish emerge, the finish is akin to the Hubble telescope finish. Do not roll-rub heavily, if you are ready, here is another little technique.

Use a soft leaded “Artists #1” pencil rubbing on this #1,000 and the grit is now smoother to a finer #1,200 style of paper. Instead of buying another sheet of polishing paper, this “pencil rubbing” actually fills in the pores of the paper or the silicone granules. The results are just fantastic! This area must only be applied to the needed areas of the graver You need never to apply this finish to the top section of the graver near the widest section, only the areas need the refining is at 2-3 mms above the knife edge design.

 If you see that the paper is shredding that means that your graver is digging in to the paper too deeply and at the wrong angle! 

Now that we have touched lightly on how to apply the preparation to the gravers. This method is the same for “Onglette and Flat” gravers, bearing in mind, that practice is the next thing you all must learn, but this is left to you! I don’t teach experience, sorry!

   One more thing, the real difference with all of these papers is the grit, but what is Grit? Glad you asked, it’s the separation of the silicone nodules on the paper. The separation means the closer these nodules are, the finer paper you will be using all of the grit must be used in sequential order!

Hence, (review) Emery #240, then #480, Polishing #600, and lastly  #800 with the help of a pencil rubbing simulating a #1,000 paper, got it?  When you are “rough-cutting” no labourious refining or polishing of gravers, is required.

Interchangeable Graver Handle

 This relatively new addition to a setter’s bench is a handle that has 2 screws on one side. I can now use all of my 20 graver blades with just one handle. I

can interchange any blade at a moment’s notice, this is now without putting the blades into used or worn down wooden-handles.

Bees wax “stone pickup wax!”

    How do we pick up the small diamonds or gemstones? I was taught to mix ordinary bee’s wax and fine shavings off of the charcoal block. Place this new mixture into a little metal scoop and heat up to a liquid consistency over the alcohol flame.

Once this is thoroughly mixed up, drop this liquid in to a container of water. Now you can roll the bees wax in your palm of your hand and touch up this

sticky substance with other very fine charcoal…and you’re ready! If you still don’t know how to do this, buy your own in any tool supply store.

This is only an introduction to the some of the tools I generally use. I could have kept on going for a few more items, not including their specific description. If I completed these, I would have about 5-6+ more pages.

  Again, my readers, this is only an introduction. Every year, more tools are being introduced into the market, modifying what is on my list. As stated in my pre-amble, these are only my choices. You, the setter/jeweller, may have your own type of tools to use and if it makes YOUR life easier, GREAT, I just offer many newer options.

 Hope you enjoyed viewing ‘my bench of tools’. Thanks for the reading

  these 31 pages containing ONLY 8,250 words!