How many ways are there
to set an Engagement ring Diamond?
“The opinions & techniques on Diamond Setting, are expressly those of this Blog-Author”. The listing of these setting patterns” are from my work-experience spanning ONLY 60 years!
Although there are many ways to set a
Diamond, or Gemstone. With the assistance of the 'Computer Aided Design' program this dramatically helps the jeweller in designing an appropriate ring to match the new diamond.
During the past many years styles have evolved
& changed, but the basic designs, still stay with ‘us’.
With each photograph; I’ll explain in
detail where each stone is finally used with what size it can take.
Suffice to say, these patterns are now
to be kept in these blog-archives for posterity. Some of these patterns have gone
by the wayside and not seen much these days.
“In writing about them; I ask "Not now, when else? And if not by me, who
then will take their time in explaining these styles?"
Furthermore, I’m not doing this project for myself, I’m writing this blog for
everyone and including YOU! So let’s now start!
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Let’s start with two ‘popular rings listed as
(A-B)’ from the 1960-70’s. I learned
to set these stones during my formative years in learning to set large stones.
=> A) This Gent’s ring, 'out of style' had a novel
way of holding the stone into the ring. No 'Setting of Stones in Wax' in those
earlier days everything had to be set by hand. No errors, or mistakes were
allowed, “We learned perfection” right
from the beginning!
The size of the stone was
quite limiting, as it had to be of a size that still allowed the four corner bars,
each to be saw-blade cut & and the little
amount of metal to be lightly
pushed over the stone.
The stone size was usually from .15 ó to .40 point size.
But thankfully, this
pattern has been deleted and ‘put out to pasture’ =>The next ‘out of style’
engagement ring was named
“Flat-Topped Design”, the diamond range was in .18ó .38 point. I know these facts personally, as they
were the cornerstone for sales of the company I once worked for. Because of the
style of head, these rings were sold to the newly married couple who had a very
limited budget!
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A
“6-Claw/Prong head” was so popular and still is, why so? It gives a great deal of security & as well lets the customer see much of the stone as possible! The
stone range is about .50 pointsó 1.00 carat.
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One of the best and basic rings ever created
was & still is the 4-claw head!
There are no limitations as to what size of stone can go into this head. I’ve seen a stone in this ring design from
basically a .30 point size & to over 1.50 carats. I prefer to have my
CAD person have the stone prior to designing thus making ring perfectly fit the
stone!
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One of the most popular styles in Fancy-Cut
stones is the “Pear-Shape”! I’ve
seen either a round claw, or a “VEE” shaped claw covering the point of the
stone. Either method, the point of the stone is paramount in protection and
security from breakage! In this design, I’d prefer “Double-claws”, as one claw
is too fragile in the ‘security department’. The size of the diamond (measuring
in mm’s) is dependent upon also the customer’s budget. I’ve seen .75 (3/4 carat) ó 2.00 carat sizes, but these would be then carefully CAD designed just for these
“Fancy-Cut” stones.
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The most popular is the “Cluster-top”, now this can be such a
wonderful showing of diamonds, why so?
When all of the diamonds when placed
“side by side” the effect is great! It gives the customer more access to “Show
& Bling” & for less money spent.
This ring has 16, (3.0mm’s) stones of .08 points EACH and a .15+ point (4.5mm’s)
center! I like this design as it gives height,
as well as width. You will
see the same ring style, but now seen as a pendant option.
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“Halo
rings”, so darned great to look at … even though these shown are only in silver and set with CZ’s. As all
of these ‘essays rings’ are in silver and set with CZ’s. The diamond sizes used are 16, .015 points and a center size
depending on the stone requested.
This ring is CAD created WITH THE STONES
on hand. No guessing, or ‘mix to match’!
The CAD creator needs
all of the diamond measurements before his skill of computer-designing takes
place!!!
The favourite choice of stones for
these special rings are either in a Round shape, or using Cushion-cut stones. I
personally prefer a stone with no sharp corners (Square or Princess-cut). If
this stone is needed, there may be some problems while in setting.
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“Square
stone, or Princess Ring!” There are many designs where a square, or
Princess-stone can be set. Some are shown here in this essay. I use two
different styles in my teaching to my students, which is best is your choice.
Again for that special order, I suggest to get your ring CAD created.
Remembering, that all claws must eventually not be bent over to grab the stone.
On this particular style of a ring, it is advisable to “Pre-Polish” lightly prior to setting.
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“Tube-Set and
Half-Bezel ring”. One thing to understand is that in
any Tube-Setting, there is an amount of 10-15% of the metal covering the stone.
Appraising is quite difficult and leads to much guess-work. If you select this
style of ring, get the stone ‘Pre-Certed” prior to setting, or as it’s properly
named “Pre-Appraised”.
Remembering, that there could be an ‘inclusion’ just at
where the girdle is now being covered!!
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“Triangular, shoulder-stones”. This particular shape of stone is very delicate to set. I’d ask you to
be careful in working with these shapes of stones. In the empty mount, I was
asked to set Triangular-shaped, Rose-Cut diamonds but have them upside
down…what? Yup! The studio owner requested them to be “Culet” up & then the
“Table facet” facing down!!! The nice part is that the corners were completely
covered & protected. In the center, the owner wanted her “Rose-Cut” center-stone secured with not 6, but 8 claws! Too many claws and all are covering the multi-faceted
stone!
(There was a further challenge; as her initial design made that I couldn’t set her shoulder stones. I had to re-design the end-bezels and give more space between the ‘head & the shoulder bezel-claws’ all of this with the help of my CAD designer.)
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Another pattern is having two Triangular stones on the shoulders. I prefer to have the shoulder stones mounted, or set first. Then Laser-solder the head, why this convoluted process? I need full access to the mini-claws, filing of the claws, then getting the polishing process completed.
The corners of these stone are so sharp, you can break them just by looking at them. Once the stones were set, I “Bright-Cut” the inside of the “Vee” shaped claws. Do the "Rouge polishing", post setting post.
Setting this delicate stone is a 9 out of 10 on the “Difficulty Scale”.
But I had to ‘archive my past experiences’ in creating this new ring, was this easy? NO! But I found that knowing the procedure in how to set a Princess ‘Vee’ shaped claw, greatly help me!
I didn’t want ‘big blobs of metal’ holding the little stone.
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“Marquise shaped stone”. I
prefer to have two, round-shaped, end-claws giving security to the points of
this fancy-cut stone. The claw tips must be made round & smooth to your
touch. In this case, the center stone is
set first, then the shoulder-stones are set afterwards! I’m even thinking
of pre-polishing the Marquise-stone claws first.
If I attempted to set the shoulder stones
first, then the center stone next, many of these claws could get crooked. You
might even lose a stone after a short while.
It could get to be a quite a messy setting job! “Center first, then the
shoulders, agree?”
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When setting an Oval stone, I'd prefer to use round tipped claws, as these are more aesthetically appealing.
In this essay, I prefer to show how the larger stones are set. In the next essay and accompanying this essay (part 2) are setting for smaller stones..for example; Gypsy/Flush, Shared Claws and a mini, 4-claw layout.
For private training in Diamond Setting, I offer in-house training programs from 3 to 5 days. Contact me at "gerrylewy18@gmail.com"
