Monday, 9 July 2018

Which Metal-Pusher, for Which Stone?

 These ‘recommendations’ for suggested metal-pushing came from my 55 years of setting stones.

 I have not gathered these ‘metal-pushing selections’ from any books, nor videos. These diamond setting 'choices' shown here were not found on any other ‘internet sites’. These notes ARE MY NOTES!

The (bracketed notes) are not for some casual reading, but these should be read!!

(Please print this list & paste it somewhere near your bench). I created this list from my past setting experiences for YOU!

This is now yours & please share with your fellow trades-persons!

You can put your own thoughts along side of mine, if needed!

DISCLAIMER:If you find that the selection you made from my list has broken you gemstones, I cannot be held responsible. Greatest of care must be given at all times while setting your gemstones! 


 In this photograph; you can see my 3 steel pushers. There are as well 3 Brass & 2 Copper metal-pushers.

 My choice can be now two-fold; either I make a totally new metal pusher, or modify what I have.

 (I prefer a new series of pushers to be 100% 'untouched', just in case some newer tools are needed at a later time!)

"I do not buy new tools, I just modify with what I may have, at a moments notice!"

Name of Gemstone   Metal Pusher (that may be also used)

Diamond                      Brass, Copper, Steel

Ruby                            Brass, Copper, Steel

Sapphire                      Brass, Copper, Steel

Alexandrite                 Brass, Copper

Topaz                           Brass, Copper 

Spinel                          Brass, Copper

Blue Topaz                  Brass, Copper

Emerald                      Brass, Copper

Andalusite                        (N/A)

Aquamarine                Brass, Copper  
Iolite                                (N/A)

Smokey Quartz           Brass, Copper
Amethyst                     Copper (stones are very fragile)

Tourmaline                 Brass, Copper

Citrine                        Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)
Garnet                        Brass, Copper

Onyx                           Brass, Copper

Tiger-Eye                   Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)

Zircon                        Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Bloodstone                 Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)

Tanzanite                   Brass, Copper

Peridot                       Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Moonstone                Brass, Copper (Steel is 100% no-no)

Hematite                  Copper, (Brass is a 'maybe')

Opal                         Copper ONLY! (Keep these stones ‘oiled’)

Lapis Lazuli             Brass, Copper (be very careful)

Turquoise                 Copper (be extremely careful)

Malachite                         N/A

Coral                         Copper (please be extremely careful)

Pearl                         Brass, Copper (never, never with Steel) 
Amber                       Copper ONLY (too darn fragile for Brass)    

 After setting your gemstones, the “Pumice Wheel” cleaning will now commence, why now? Some metal-pushing on the claws will leave a ‘textured’ surface and these cannot remain without your ‘post-setting’ cleaning!

 After your setting & cleaning; the next process is “Tripoli & Rouge” finishing.

Please do not be too aggressive in this polishing process, as your claws/prongs might get ruined.

If you do your own 'post-setting' polishing, please use the greatest of care in this very delicate procedure! 


  

9 comments:

  1. Thank you, my friend. I'm having fun and learning.
    Regards ...
    Carlos Peixoto

    ReplyDelete
  2. Carlos,
    That is the best kind of response I can get from anyone.."having fun and learning". I have so many more essays still in the preliminary stages of writing!
    Gerry!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Gerry,
    First off, really great stuff here. I have 40+ years of experience working in jewelry - not to the extent you have with stone setting, but I concur with your findings regarding different pushers for different stones.
    Second, I would make the comment that different metal pushers innately have a different feel on the different types of metal the stones are going into (gold vs. platinum vs. silver), and in the final analysis, from an "engineering" perspective, it's a marriage of the gemstone to the type of metal holding it. Think setting any stone in white gold here. It just seems like a more - for lack of a better term - "slippery" metal to set in than yellow gold, platinum, or silver. Steel pusher on white gold for any stone? No, thank you! I'll pick up my brass pusher every time regardless of gemstone type because it gives me the feel of having more "tooth" to grab the metal and not slip.

    Lastly, I have a couple of questions for you: 1. In the list above, did you list the type of pusher for each stone in order of preference (For example: for diamond you listed brass, copper, steel)?
    2. Do you always keep the pushing surface of your pushers smooth, or do you ever "texture" the pushing surface to get a more sure-footed grip on the metal being pushed?
    I will give you an experience from my practice. Sometimes with certain stones in certain circumstances, I will "rough up" the pushing surface of my pusher to get a better grip by first pushing the pusher down on the surface of one of my coarse files. The result is not dramatic, but it leaves little indentations in the pushing surface and thereby providing a little additional grip while moving prongs or bezel walls, etc. over the gemstone. Since the prongs will need a bit of smoothing after setting the stone even with a smooth-faced pusher, I don't feel the resulting "tooling" marks are that big a deal. What are your thoughts/experience?

    Thank a million for providing your expertise the art of setting stones. Keep up the great work.
    Mike

    ReplyDelete
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