Which Metal-Pusher, for
Which Stone?
These ‘recommendations’
for suggested metal-pushing came from my 55 years of setting stones.
I have not gathered
these ‘metal-pushing selections’ from any books, nor videos. These diamond setting 'choices' shown here
were not found on any other ‘internet sites’. These notes ARE MY NOTES!
The (bracketed notes) are not for some casual reading, but these should be read!!
(Please print this
list & paste it somewhere near your bench). I created this list
from my past setting experiences for YOU!
This is now yours & please share with your fellow trades-persons!
You can put your own thoughts along side of mine, if needed!
DISCLAIMER:If you find that the
selection you made from my list has broken you gemstones, I cannot be held responsible.
Greatest of care must be given at all times while setting your gemstones!
In this photograph; you can see my 3 steel pushers. There are as well 3 Brass & 2 Copper metal-pushers.
My choice can be now two-fold; either I make a totally new metal pusher, or modify what I have.
(I prefer a new series of pushers to be 100% 'untouched', just in case some newer tools are needed at a later time!)
"I do not buy new tools, I just modify with what I may have, at a moments notice!"
Name of Gemstone Metal Pusher (that may be also used)
Diamond Brass, Copper, Steel
Ruby Brass, Copper,
Steel
Sapphire Brass, Copper, Steel
Alexandrite Brass, Copper
Topaz Brass, Copper
Spinel Brass, Copper
Blue Topaz Brass,
Copper
Emerald Brass,
Copper
Andalusite (N/A)
Aquamarine Brass,
Copper
Iolite (N/A)
Smokey Quartz Brass, Copper
Amethyst Copper (stones are very fragile)
Tourmaline Brass, Copper
Citrine Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)
Garnet Brass, Copper
Onyx Brass, Copper
Tiger-Eye Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)
Zircon Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Bloodstone Brass,
Copper (avoid Steel)
Tanzanite Brass, Copper
Peridot Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Moonstone Brass, Copper (Steel is 100% no-no)
Hematite Copper, (Brass is a 'maybe')
Opal Copper ONLY! (Keep these stones ‘oiled’)
Lapis Lazuli Brass, Copper
(be very careful)
Turquoise Copper
(be extremely careful)
Malachite N/A
Coral Copper
(please be extremely careful)
Pearl Brass, Copper (never, never with Steel)
Amber Copper ONLY (too darn fragile for Brass)
After setting your gemstones, the “Pumice Wheel” cleaning
will now commence, why now? Some metal-pushing on the claws will leave a ‘textured’
surface and these cannot remain without your ‘post-setting’
cleaning!
After your setting & cleaning; the next
process is “Tripoli & Rouge” finishing.
Please do not be too aggressive
in this polishing process, as your claws/prongs might get ruined.
If you do your own 'post-setting' polishing, please use the greatest of care in this very delicate procedure!
Thank you, my friend. I'm having fun and learning.
ReplyDeleteRegards ...
Carlos Peixoto
Carlos,
ReplyDeleteThat is the best kind of response I can get from anyone.."having fun and learning". I have so many more essays still in the preliminary stages of writing!
Gerry!
Gerry,
ReplyDeleteFirst off, really great stuff here. I have 40+ years of experience working in jewelry - not to the extent you have with stone setting, but I concur with your findings regarding different pushers for different stones.
Second, I would make the comment that different metal pushers innately have a different feel on the different types of metal the stones are going into (gold vs. platinum vs. silver), and in the final analysis, from an "engineering" perspective, it's a marriage of the gemstone to the type of metal holding it. Think setting any stone in white gold here. It just seems like a more - for lack of a better term - "slippery" metal to set in than yellow gold, platinum, or silver. Steel pusher on white gold for any stone? No, thank you! I'll pick up my brass pusher every time regardless of gemstone type because it gives me the feel of having more "tooth" to grab the metal and not slip.
Lastly, I have a couple of questions for you: 1. In the list above, did you list the type of pusher for each stone in order of preference (For example: for diamond you listed brass, copper, steel)?
2. Do you always keep the pushing surface of your pushers smooth, or do you ever "texture" the pushing surface to get a more sure-footed grip on the metal being pushed?
I will give you an experience from my practice. Sometimes with certain stones in certain circumstances, I will "rough up" the pushing surface of my pusher to get a better grip by first pushing the pusher down on the surface of one of my coarse files. The result is not dramatic, but it leaves little indentations in the pushing surface and thereby providing a little additional grip while moving prongs or bezel walls, etc. over the gemstone. Since the prongs will need a bit of smoothing after setting the stone even with a smooth-faced pusher, I don't feel the resulting "tooling" marks are that big a deal. What are your thoughts/experience?
Thank a million for providing your expertise the art of setting stones. Keep up the great work.
Mike