Monday, 9 July 2018

Which Metal-Pusher, for Which Stone?

 These ‘recommendations’ for suggested metal-pushing came from my 65 years of setting stones.

 I have not gathered these ‘metal-pushing selections’ from any books or videos. These diamond setting 'choices' shown here were not found on any other ‘internet sites’. These notes ARE MY NOTES!

The (bracketed notes) are not for some casual reading, but these should be read!!

(Please print this list & paste it somewhere near your bench). I created this list from my past setting experiences for YOU!

This is now yours & please share with your fellow trades-persons!

You can put your own thoughts along side of mine, if needed!

DISCLAIMER:If you find that the selection you made from my list has broken you gemstones, I cannot be held responsible. Greatest of care must be given at all times while setting your gemstones! 


 In this photograph; you can see my 3 steel pushers. There are as well 3 Brass & 2 Copper metal-pushers.

 My choice can be now two-fold; either I make a totally new metal pusher, or modify what I have.

 (I prefer a new series of pushers to be 100% 'untouched', just in case some newer tools are needed at a later time!)

"I do not buy new tools, I just modify with what I may have, at a moments notice!"

Name of Gemstone   Metal Pusher (that may be also used)

Diamond                      Brass, Copper, Steel

Ruby                            Brass, Copper, Steel

Sapphire                      Brass, Copper, Steel

Alexandrite                 Brass, Copper

Topaz                           Brass, Copper 

Spinel                          Brass, Copper

Blue Topaz                  Brass, Copper

Emerald                      Brass, Copper

Andalusite                        (N/A)

Aquamarine                Brass, Copper  
Iolite                                (N/A)

Smokey Quartz           Brass, Copper
Amethyst                     Copper (stones are very fragile)

Tourmaline                 Brass, Copper

Citrine                        Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)
Garnet                        Brass, Copper

Onyx                           Brass, Copper

Tiger-Eye                   Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)

Zircon                        Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Bloodstone                 Brass, Copper (avoid Steel)

Tanzanite                   Brass, Copper

Peridot                       Brass, Copper, (too risky for Steel)
Moonstone                Brass, Copper (Steel is 100% no-no)

Hematite                  Copper, (Brass is a 'maybe')

Opal                         Copper ONLY! (Keep these stones ‘oiled’)

Lapis Lazuli             Brass, Copper (be very careful)

Turquoise                 Copper (be extremely careful)

Malachite                         N/A

Coral                         Copper (please be extremely careful)

Pearl                         Brass, Copper (never, never with Steel) 
Amber                       Copper ONLY (too darn fragile for Brass)    

 After setting your gemstones, the “Pumice Wheel” cleaning will now commence, why now? Some metal-pushing on the claws will leave a ‘textured’ surface and these cannot remain without your ‘post-setting’ cleaning!

 After your setting & cleaning; the next process is “Tripoli & Rouge” finishing.

Please do not be too aggressive in this polishing process, as your claws/prongs might get ruined.

If you do your own 'post-setting' polishing, please use the greatest of care in this very delicate procedure! 


  

Friday, 6 July 2018

Claw-Prong Pusher, which is best for you

Claw/Prong Pusher!

 Which metal-pusher would YOU use, when, where and how?

Copper, Steel & Brass Stone Pushers!

(The following paragraphs were taken from a previously written essay. This essay was written three years (2015) ago, the fonts are slightly different, but the text and information is still so very, very important!
 If you find that there is a repetition of facts, my humblest apologies. That is because setting skills & talents haven't changed, just the year!

Much debate now centres on which pusher gives the best suits and for which job. The merits of each metal will now be discussed in the greatest of details.

 The Brass pusher is often used for Gypsy Setting delicate stones such as Emeralds or other semi-precious stones. This Copper pusher will not compress the gold around the girdle as much as a harder Brass pusher might. (Note the word…“might”.)


 Brass can be used with gold, but it is still softer than steel. It is best used when setting with Platinum. Use "Emery, Snap-On" paper wheel with a 'Medium grade' over its pushing tip to prevent deep marks. (This technique may also be applied to the Copper & Steel pushers.)



 Brass, however, delivers better results than the softer Copper. Neither Copper nor Brass has the strength when applying heavy downward pressure for thicker and wider Engagement-ring claws. 
 The potential for slipping is greater with either of these two softer metals.

Steel is the hardest metal to use and too unforgiving to be used for Gypsy Setting. The tip, or edges of the pusher can and always will mark or scratch the stone. It could destroy a facet, scratch Turquoise, or damage a softer Mohs scale stone. 

The "Serrated Edge" of the pusher will leave deep indentations in the metal and should not be used with Platinum. Often marks will remain for your cleaning after the setting and may require extensive polishing.

 Therefore reduce the much-needed metal thickness when setting with gold or Platinum.

 Please handle with great care with the softer metal with the steel pusher!

(Here is the newer essay that was written only a few days ago. 

When & How to make them. I have in my collection of pushers ranging from Brass, Copper & Steel. The interesting question here is when to use them?

I believe in fabricating or ‘modifying’ any new pusher, at a moment’s notice!

 Let’s start with a steel pusher, I prefer to use a steel from a large file, just for that steel! I find that this steel is still great for many decades to come, as you can see that one pusher I continually use, is only to be on Diamonds. In fact, in this ‘steel pusher’ you can still see the old file teeth still showing near the wooden handle. (BTW, that pusher being shown here is well over 50 years old!)

Brass & Copper pushers are just excellent, why so? Many stones you will be setting requires constant thinking on what metal-pusher you need! I will just never think of relying on one metal pusher, again why so? You are dealing with so many ‘hardness’ of stones.

 Most metal rods come in basic widths, but I feel comfortable with a 3/16” inch diameter. But these ‘pusher tips’ should sit comfortably in your hand and not to exceed the first knuckle of your middle finger!

 Would I use a ‘Steel-Pusher’ on an Emerald? Only if I want it to be broken and that is what happens if I do use steel on Amethyst, Emerald, Coral, Blue Zircon, Amber or Pearls?..;>(

  If I do use these pushers on the soft stones, my metal-pusher might slip off the claw-tip and scrape or even ruin the “Crown, or the Star Facets” these might touch these facets by accident & good-bye stone!

 I think it is prudent that the many reasons be mentioned, as accidents could very well happen!!!

 I will use Brass or Copper with these stones and you should have the metal tip ‘trimmed to shape’ as these tips will now have a serrated edge. These ‘textured surfaces’ are created by hitting the pusher-metal that you just created, with your large "Pillar" file.
 The new teeth marks will give you the desired texture that you need. A light 'hit or tap' will give the required 'minimum texture' you might need now at your bench. 

 I again prefer to 'roll over with the pusher' and I need to see & observe just where the pusher is making contact!

 Where do you buy these specialized & modified tools? Simple answer, you don’t, you have to make these new tools yourself!

 Your local or international tool suppliers only sell the rod that is joined to wooden handles. You have to ‘trim & create’ the tip and measure it to your length from your finger, to the palm of your hand.

 I will use a Pillar-file of #1 cut, to 'texture' the tip, then follow up with your Emery-disks of “Medium” grade just to smooth the surface further. 
This is followed by using a Pumice wheel of #180 grit.

 The basic metal tools that you buy from your supplier are just a ‘long metal rod’. You have much to do in the “Reshaping & Experimenting" department!

 If you have to set Pearls or Opal, what tool would you use? I would test the softness of the metal and prepare to again sculpt & modify the claw-tip just to fit against the claw. I would drill a little recess into the pusher and that is just where the claw will rest while being used.

 When you are setting a Pearl in a 6-claw head. I would use a Copper pusher! Here is a little solution to prevent any slippage. Have your pusher-tip drilled with a round bur just where you are applying pressure! Have this bur-recess made larger than the claw, how is this done? I’d measure the claw diameter, then have your new tip 1/2 mm larger in size.






 If you use a steel-pusher; you very well could have the ‘serrated-edge texture’ remaining on the claw. That alone will cause you much stress in trying to remove those deep marks & resulting in metal & great time lost!

 To make such a textured surface. I always use a "Corundum,
 Separating Disk" these will cut little grooves into the steel surface. 




 If you are attempting to set an Opal, Turquoise or even Amber I would suggest to use a soft Copper metal-pusher. For you to use Brass, I’d shy away from using this metal on these very delicate stones. This is still a very hard (pushing) metal to use, some problems might occur! The problems are literally cracking the Opal, or just splitting the Turquoise.  The Amber is rated too soft  for cleaning, to use with your Pillar or Triangular files.

 I’d keep using the new 'pusher' until you get the ‘feel’ of the amount of pressure being applied. Then you can graduate in using any tool that you need. I still use the "softer metal" pushers, even today!

 HOW DO YOU MODIFY THEM? Great question, so easy to answer!
 I’d first use a ‘very rough file’ surface to place a ‘texture’ on the tip, as I said once before, hitting it with a file to the soft metal gives you just the texture that you need.
 Once this is done, softly use your pumice wheel at #180 grit to ‘gently smooth the coarse textured finish’.

On the Copper, 3/16” rod, use a round bur at about the size of the claw that has to be pushed over. If you prefer a larger claw-recess, do so! The claw has to fit comfortably against the ‘pusher‘. If you prefer to even ‘pre-polish’ the setting area and claws, please do so now!

Then once the ring is completely finished, you can place those so very soft stones into the ‘prepared claws’. Then you can gently push over the claws but put the ring into your clamp lined with tissue paper! Why so? I don’t want any marks remaining in the highly polished metal surface!

 I keep my variety of ‘pushers’ all in long & short wooden handles, all of them have little “Identifying Markings” in the handles. At a moment’s notice, I can visually locate which handle has the ‘desired & required metal-pusher’.

 My many steel pushers have rectangular-shaped tips, even square-shaped tip, why so? I can literally ‘roll the metal tip over the contact area on the claw’. I rarely use my “Reciprocating-Hammer” on any gentle stone.


 Always keep additional pieces of the 3/16 inch rods near your bench. You just never know when you might be needing another similar (but not the same) pusher!

  I have 8, metal-pushers & sometimes I feel that these might still not be  enough!

Be creative in your thinking of the new tools you might need and how each might be used.

 Just think that your own selection might be three or four just to get your gemstone settings completed.

Choosing the correct metal pusher is an 'acquired skill' and done at a moments notice! So don't worry if you fumble or make a mistake.

Sunday, 1 July 2018

Mohs Scale of Hardness for Gemstones

“Mohs Scale of Hardness!”

(This list is only for "Setting of Gemstones"!)

Name of Gem      Hardness    Ease of Setting 
                                                    Easiest  Difficult 
Diamond                  10               1
Ruby                          9               1
Sapphire                   9                1
Alexandrite              8.5             3
Topaz                       8                2 =>3   
Spinel                      8                4
Blue Topaz              8                3 
Emerald                 7.5ó 8                    10
Andalusite             7.5              4 
Aquamarine          7.5ó 8      4
Iolite                      7 ó 7.5     5 
Smokey Quartz     7                 5
Amethyst               7                 5
Tourmaline           7 ó 7.5      5
Citrine                  7                  4
Garnet                  6.5ó 7.5    4
Onyx                    6.5 ó 7       3
Tiger Eye             6.5 ó 7       3
Zircon                  6.5 ó 7.5    3
Bloodstone          6.5 ó 7       3=>4
Tanzanite            6.5 ó 7       3
Peridot                6.5 ó 7       4=>5
Moonstone         6 ó  6.5      5
Hematite            5.5 <>6.5     6
Fire Opal           5.5 ó 6.5                8
Opal                   5.5 ó 6.5                8
Lapis Lazuli      5 ó 6                      9
Turquoise         5 ó 6                       9
Malachite         3.5 ó 4                    8
Coral                 3ó 4                      10
Pearl                 2.5ó 4.5                10
Amber              2ó 2.5                   10
=====================
The “Rating of Ease of Setting” is my own numbering system. Other setters might disagree with me, but I’m satisfied with my own rating.


Saturday, 23 June 2018

Diamond Setting patterns! <=> Larger Stones

How many ways are there to set an Engagement ring Diamond?

“The opinions & techniques on Diamond Setting, are expressly those of this Blog-Author”. The listing of these setting patterns” are from my work-experience spanning ONLY 60 years!


Although there are many ways to set a Diamond, or Gemstone. With the assistance of the 'Computer Aided Design' program this dramatically helps the jeweller in designing an appropriate ring to match the new diamond.  
 During the past many years styles have evolved & changed, but the basic designs, still stay with ‘us’.

With each photograph; I’ll explain in detail where each stone is finally used with what size it can take. 

Suffice to say, these patterns are now to be kept in these blog-archives for posterity. Some of these patterns have gone by the wayside and not seen much these days.

“In writing about them; I ask "Not now, when else? And if not by me, who then will take their time in explaining these styles?"
Furthermore, I’m not doing this project for myself, I’m writing this blog for everyone and including YOU! So let’s now start!
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 Let’s start with two ‘popular rings listed as (A-B)’ from the 1960-70’s. I learned to set these stones during my formative years in learning to set large stones.

=> A) This Gent’s ring, 'out of style' had a novel way of holding the stone into the ring. No 'Setting of Stones in Wax' in those earlier days everything had to be set by hand. No errors, or mistakes were allowed, “We learned perfection” right from the beginning!


 The size of the stone was quite limiting, as it had to be of a size that still allowed the four corner bars, each to be saw-blade cut & and the little
amount of metal to be lightly pushed over the stone.
The stone size was usually from .15 ó to .40 point size.
  But thankfully, this pattern has been deleted and ‘put out to pasture’ =>The next ‘out of style’ engagement ring was named
 “Flat-Topped Design”, the diamond range was in .18ó .38 point. I know these facts personally, as they were the cornerstone for sales of the company I once worked for. Because of the style of head, these rings were sold to the newly married couple who had a very limited budget!


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A “6-Claw/Prong head” was so popular and still is, why so? It gives a great deal of security & as well lets the customer see much of the stone as possible! The stone range is about .50 pointsó 1.00 carat.


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 One of the best and basic rings ever created was & still is the 4-claw head! There are no limitations as to what size of stone can go into this head. I’ve seen a stone in this ring design from basically a .30 point size & to over 1.50 carats. I prefer to have my CAD person have the stone prior to designing thus making ring perfectly fit the stone!

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 One of the most popular styles in Fancy-Cut stones is the “Pear-Shape”! I’ve seen either a round claw, or a “VEE” shaped claw covering the point of the stone. Either method, the point of the stone is paramount in protection and security from breakage! In this design, I’d prefer “Double-claws”, as one claw is too fragile in the ‘security department’. The size of the diamond (measuring in mm’s) is dependent upon also the customer’s budget. I’ve seen .75 (3/4 carat) ó 2.00 carat sizes, but these would be then carefully CAD designed just for these “Fancy-Cut” stones.



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The most popular is the “Cluster-top”, now this can be such a wonderful showing of diamonds, why so?
When all of the diamonds when placed “side by side” the effect is great! It gives the customer more access to “Show & Bling” & for less money spent. This ring has 16, (3.0mm’s) stones of .08 points EACH and a .15+ point (4.5mm’s) center! I like this design as it gives height, as well as width. You will see the same ring style, but now seen as a pendant option.


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“Halo rings”, so darned great to look at … even though these shown  are only in silver and set with CZ’s. As all of these ‘essays rings’ are in silver and set with CZ’s. The diamond sizes used are 16, .015 points and a center size depending on the stone requested. 




This ring is CAD created WITH THE STONES on hand. No guessing, or ‘mix to match’!
The CAD creator needs all of the diamond measurements before his skill of computer-designing takes place!!!

The favourite choice of stones for these special rings are either in a Round shape, or using Cushion-cut stones. I personally prefer a stone with no sharp corners (Square or Princess-cut). If this stone is needed, there may be some problems while in setting.

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“Square stone, or Princess Ring!” There are many designs where a square, or Princess-stone can be set. Some are shown here in this essay. I use two different styles in my teaching to my students, which is best is your choice. Again for that special order, I suggest to get your ring CAD created. Remembering, that all claws must eventually not be bent over to grab the stone. On this particular style of a ring, it is advisable to “Pre-Polish” lightly prior to setting.




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“Tube-Set and Half-Bezel ring”. One thing to understand is that in any Tube-Setting, there is an amount of 10-15% of the metal covering the stone. Appraising is quite difficult and leads to much guess-work. If you select this style of ring, get the stone ‘Pre-Certed” prior to setting, or as it’s properly named “Pre-Appraised”.
 Remembering, that there could be an ‘inclusion’ just at where the girdle is now being covered!!




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 “Triangular, shoulder-stones”. This particular shape of stone is very delicate to set. I’d ask you to be careful in working with these shapes of stones. In the empty mount, I was asked to set Triangular-shaped, Rose-Cut diamonds but have them upside down…what? Yup! The studio owner requested them to be “Culet” up & then the “Table facet” facing down!!! The nice part is that the corners were completely covered & protected. In the center, the owner wanted her “Rose-Cut” center-stone secured with not 6, but 8 claws! Too many claws and all are covering the multi-faceted stone!
(There was a further challenge; as her initial design made that I couldn’t set her shoulder stones. I had to re-design the end-bezels and give more space between the ‘head & the shoulder bezel-claws’ all of this with the help of my CAD designer.)

--------------------------------------------
  Another pattern is having two Triangular stones on the shoulders. I prefer to have the shoulder stones mounted, or set first. Then Laser-solder the head, why this convoluted process? I need full access to the mini-claws, filing of the claws, then getting the polishing process completed.
 The corners of these stone are so sharp, you can break them just by looking at them. Once the stones were set, I “Bright-Cut” the inside of the “Vee” shaped claws. Do the "Rouge polishing", post setting post.

  Setting this delicate stone is a 9 out of 10 on the “Difficulty Scale”.
 But I had to ‘archive my past experiences’ in creating this new ring, was this easy? NO! But I found that knowing the procedure in how to set a Princess ‘Vee’ shaped claw, greatly help me!



I didn’t want ‘big blobs of metal’ holding the little stone.
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  “Marquise shaped stone”. I prefer to have two, round-shaped, end-claws giving security to the points of this fancy-cut stone. The claw tips must be made round & smooth to your touch. In this case, the center stone is set first, then the shoulder-stones are set afterwards! I’m even thinking of pre-polishing the Marquise-stone claws first.

 If I attempted to set the shoulder stones first, then the center stone next, many of these claws could get crooked. You might even lose a stone after a short while. It could get to be a quite a messy setting job! “Center first, then the shoulders, agree?”
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When setting an Oval stone, I'd prefer to use round tipped claws, as these  are more aesthetically appealing.

In this essay, I prefer to show how the larger stones are set. In the next essay and accompanying this essay (part 2) are setting for smaller stones..for example; Gypsy/Flush, Shared Claws and a mini, 4-claw layout.

For private training in Diamond Setting, I offer in-house training programs from    3 to 5 days. Contact me at "gerrylewy18@gmail.com"