Trimming your "Engagement Ring" claws - 25 photos (first of three essays on this topic)

 This topic is not easy, it is also challenging. One of the first things I learned 65 years ago was to learn to do this 'trimming'. "Do you Bright-Cut your 4 claws? Did I what? Are you serious? I am positively 100% serious, then what tools would I need?"

1) Flat #40 graver.

2) Triangular File, 8 cm long with a #4 grit.

3) Two Tapered Pumice Wheels, with #180 & #1,000 grit.

4) "Inside, ring clamp".

5) Eye loupe of (minimum) 10x power magnification.

6) Two Polishing Papers with #800 grit & #1,000 grit.

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 This first of many photos shows that even after rounding the 4 claws there will be a few 'remnants of metal' remaining...GET RID OF THEM NOW.

 On any '4-claw ring', there will be a greater need to keep the claws as smooth as possible. I always use my Pumice Wheel, of #180 grit for a start. I always hold any ring carefully in my "Inside, Ring Clamp". 

 The regular wide wooden ring clamps do not give me any access that I need. I want my fingers to get as close as I can to my working areas.

 When I'm finishing the 'trimming' on a "V" shaped claw. I will use my Pumice Wheel but with a "FLAT-FACED" surface, as shown here.

This "Triangular, 3-claw head" needs to be kept in this configuration at all times. I will even 'Bright-Cut' the inside of those claws, why is that? This action lets the wearer know that someone appreciates quality workmanship.

 On my 'Setters, Hold-It" pin-vice clamp, I want to have absolutely no movement when I'm filing the claws. "Pre-polishing" is so necessary that I can't overestimate how important this preliminary action is. 

 When the stone is set, there is no opportunity to polish any 'inside metal areas' afterwards. DO THIS DELICATE METAL TRIMMING NOW.

   This is the newer version of the "Inside Ring Clamp". With this special ring clamp, I can now hold my 'hand and file' very close to the ring. This is why I display my own clamp as seen above.

 These are my favourite 'light-abrasive', finishing wheels. The blue-coloured wheels are #180 grit and the Pink coloured wheels are #1,000 grit. These colours are not for decoration but for a specific purpose.

 All of these '4-claw, rings' should be pre-polished ahead of the insertion of the centre 'gemstone or diamond'. After the stone-setting has been done, all that remains is a light buffing of the claw tips.

 'Pre-polishing' is so important that it can be overlooked by some new jewellers who are starting to create a clientele.

 There is no need for a 'large and rough' file when finishing the claw setting. Stay within the parameters of using 'delicate needle-nose' files. 

 When I'm setting these claws I want to 'stop and see' if any problems might be starting. YES, the 'Opti-Visor' is great, but not perfect! Have a hand-held loupe in constant proximity to your bench-pin. I prefer a 10x power loupe, but a 15x power is best!

       

      WHAT ARE YOU ARE 'ALWAYS' LOOKING FOR?

1) Are your claws on your stone?

2) Are the claws of equal distance?
3) Are the claw tips symmetrical to each other?
4) Are all claws nicely polished?

  When setting a square gemstone ALWAYS KEEP THE CLAWS 'V'-SHAPED, (as shown in this photo).

 I have two Optivisor head visors the stronger is a #7 of a stronger magnification then I use a #5 lens for the normal setting.

 This assortment of mini-files will be of much satisfaction to you as they will get into delicate areas of those multiple claw heads. 

 

 This loupe is comprised of three lenses which is 'best' as there won't be any aberration in the viewing.

  This is my (well-worn) #5 lens with approximately 3x power magnification.

 These are "#77B, Burs" with another name of "Cup Burs". But I've modified the bur on the left of my oil-stone by shaving off much of the bur. I wanted the teeth of the bur to have greater contact with the claw tip.

 There will be many times when a FLAT graver will be used and the front tip MUST BE KEPT SHARP AT ALL TIMES. My Polishing Paper of choice is halfway between an "Emery and Polishing", hence I use a #800 grit paper.

  

 The underneath of the graver MUST BE SHARP AT ALL TIMES if it isn't in pristine condition, then there will be scratches on the claw when it's being used.

 This is my FLAT graver being inspected on the oilstone during the frequent resharpening processes.

 Here is the 'before & after' photo of the FLAT gravers. All gravers must have the HSS identification which symbolizes the strength of the blade, namely "HIGH SPEED STEEL". 

  The next essay on this important topic will show where these gravers will be used BEFORE and AFTER THE GEMSTONE STONE ARE SET.

 I decided not to make this essay too long to read. I found many photos of this 'finishing process' in my archives.

Engagement Rings for 2024 & 2025 showing 10 designs & WHY?

 I saw these 2024 &2025 Engagement rings on a jewellery website and I feel that I want to put some of my thoughts into what I feel towards them.

 I try not to mention the creator's name nor the costs for those diamonds but suffice it to say these are just spectacular and original. The jewellery site did report that "what was old, is now new again".

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The ring on the left is an "Old Fashioned Cut" stone, how did I know this? The Culet point was removed. Many of the facets we not completed during the Diamond Polishing process, this shows that this diamond was from the last century (1900's).

 At each corner of the 6-cornered pattern, the designer chose to have a larger diamond. This was to give more emphasis to a 6-cornered design. Good idea!

  The other stone-setting techniques will be discussed further in this essay.

 I enjoy the thick and protective "V" shaped 2 claws as this gives maximum protection to the most vulnerable areas of the Marquise. The 'wide, side claws' also protect the widest part of the stone giving maximum security to this 3.25-carat diamond.

 The Blue-stone bezels were correctly Full-Bezel set and they were Bright-Cut. The four claws just seem to blend in towards the centre stone. Job well done!

 This Full Bezel seems to make the Marquise diamond look wider as well as longer. It also fully protects all areas of this precious diamond. The three diamonds were set in white gold, which is why the white gold ring is a perfect match for a 'near-colourless' diamond. The inside of the 3 Full Bezels were Bright Cut.

  All of the sharp corners of this diamond are fully protected by 18karat gold. There are no sharp edges anywhere to be seen.

 Even though the Engagement ring is yellow, the Diamond Bezel is white gold. It is an 'unwritten rule' never to set a white gemstone into a yellow bezel, why is that? The diamond will pick up the colour of the gold-yellow bezel, thus giving the diamond a 'false colour.'

 This ring totally fascinated me as all of the diamonds are of a Yellow tint. Thus having the diamonds blend in with the gold.

 Do you notice that there's a "Milgrain effect" around the Full Bezel of the large 3.25-carat diamond? A truly remarkable skill is keeping the Milgrain tool on the edge of the bezel wall. WOW!

 The claws that are holding the shoulder stones were split into two claws. Thus giving 'double security' to every stone.

 In keeping this insanely expensive Emerald-Cut Diamond safe and secure, the designer chose very wide claws. These claws give extra strength and protect the four corners. (I personally wouldn't choose yellow gold on a white diamond).  There would be a 'negative colour' reading for the Diamond Appraiser and the appraiser might even ask that the stone be removed to get an accurate GIA report.

What is a "Milgrain decoration" and how is it used? => 17 photos

 Any Milgrain decoration starts with the basic 'rotating gnurled wheel'. This decorating effect serves only one purpose and that is to enhance the overall 'Bright Cutting'.

 This essay is not a repeat of a previous topic dated Feb.3rd, 2024, but it's an interesting essay where this 'decorating process' can be used.

 This collection of Milgrain wheels was created if the need arose to develop more 'decorative patterns' in jewellery.

 This is the up-close view of the "Milgrain Wheel". This curved rod of steel has a decorating 'rotating wheel' located at the tip. 

 

 This is another version of a Milgrain wheel, you will notice that the rotating wheel indentations are closer together.

 Because of this, the Milgrain effect will be more precise and not so difficult to create. The 'Milgrain balls' will be quite small and closely knit. 

  When I chose to set these Emeralds on a yellow plate I wanted a touch of glamour. The answer was a Milgrain was the answer!

 But not wanting to use a rough-looking Milgrain tool, I chose to use only a gentle texture. Milgrain should enhance, but NEVER overpower the finish.

 When the rotating wheel is pressed against the edge of the metal wall then a series of 'mini-balls' is reproduced. This is the whole purpose of a "Milgrain Edge".

 

 In this collection of Milgrain wheels, there are 6 sizes of rotating wheels.

   All of these metal carving photos did not use any 'CAD' in their metal cuttings. 

 I chose to use a final decoration during my finished cutting namely just to enhance the pattern.

 

 Some of these patterns needed to be more visually enhanced, hence the Milgrain was used just to make the pattern more luxurious to the viewer.

This 'enhancement' effect is apparent in applying the Milgrain finishing touch.

  The Milgrain effect made this pattern look much more 'pleasing' to the eye.

 I found this pattern interesting and applied the Milgrain decoration during my apprenticeship years circa 1960+.

 I decided to do something novel to my ring by using the 'finishing effect' by applying the 'Milgrain' to the edges.

  I was asked to dismantle all of the diamonds, but I saw that there was a nice 'finishing touch to the edges'. I 'captured' this effect before it was destroyed. This ring was created in the early 1900's, it is the epitome of early luxury.

 I created this Pearl Butterfly, but to add a touch of beauty to the wings, I Milgrained the tip of the wire wings. Now the wearer can see each vein of the wings. This makes the wing much more visual and not just simple 'wires'.

 If I didn't put a little emphasis on the metal cutting, the lines would just blend in together. Only a Milgrain Edge can do the cutting justice.