Trimming your "Engagement Ring" claws - 25 photos (first of three essays on this topic)

 This topic is not easy, it is also challenging. One of the first things I learned 65 years ago was to learn to do this 'trimming'. "Do you Bright-Cut your 4 claws? Did I what? Are you serious? I am positively 100% serious, then what tools would I need?"

1) Flat #40 graver.

2) Triangular File, 8 cm long with a #4 grit.

3) Two Tapered Pumice Wheels, with #180 & #1,000 grit.

4) "Inside, ring clamp".

5) Eye loupe of (minimum) 10x power magnification.

6) Two Polishing Papers with #800 grit & #1,000 grit.

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 This first of many photos shows that even after rounding the 4 claws there will be a few 'remnants of metal' remaining...GET RID OF THEM NOW.

 On any '4-claw ring', there will be a greater need to keep the claws as smooth as possible. I always use my Pumice Wheel, of #180 grit for a start. I always hold any ring carefully in my "Inside, Ring Clamp". 

 The regular wide wooden ring clamps do not give me any access that I need. I want my fingers to get as close as I can to my working areas.

 When I'm finishing the 'trimming' on a "V" shaped claw. I will use my Pumice Wheel but with a "FLAT-FACED" surface, as shown here.

This "Triangular, 3-claw head" needs to be kept in this configuration at all times. I will even 'Bright-Cut' the inside of those claws, why is that? This action lets the wearer know that someone appreciates quality workmanship.

 On my 'Setters, Hold-It" pin-vice clamp, I want to have absolutely no movement when I'm filing the claws. "Pre-polishing" is so necessary that I can't overestimate how important this preliminary action is. 

 When the stone is set, there is no opportunity to polish any 'inside metal areas' afterwards. DO THIS DELICATE METAL TRIMMING NOW.

   This is the newer version of the "Inside Ring Clamp". With this special ring clamp, I can now hold my 'hand and file' very close to the ring. This is why I display my own clamp as seen above.

 These are my favourite 'light-abrasive', finishing wheels. The blue-coloured wheels are #180 grit and the Pink coloured wheels are #1,000 grit. These colours are not for decoration but for a specific purpose.

 All of these '4-claw, rings' should be pre-polished ahead of the insertion of the centre 'gemstone or diamond'. After the stone-setting has been done, all that remains is a light buffing of the claw tips.

 'Pre-polishing' is so important that it can be overlooked by some new jewellers who are starting to create a clientele.

 There is no need for a 'large and rough' file when finishing the claw setting. Stay within the parameters of using 'delicate needle-nose' files. 

 When I'm setting these claws I want to 'stop and see' if any problems might be starting. YES, the 'Opti-Visor' is great, but not perfect! Have a hand-held loupe in constant proximity to your bench-pin. I prefer a 10x power loupe, but a 15x power is best!

       

      WHAT ARE YOU ARE 'ALWAYS' LOOKING FOR?

1) Are your claws on your stone?

2) Are the claws of equal distance?
3) Are the claw tips symmetrical to each other?
4) Are all claws nicely polished?

  When setting a square gemstone ALWAYS KEEP THE CLAWS 'V'-SHAPED, (as shown in this photo).

 I have two Optivisor head visors the stronger is a #7 of a stronger magnification then I use a #5 lens for the normal setting.

 This assortment of mini-files will be of much satisfaction to you as they will get into delicate areas of those multiple claw heads. 

 

 This loupe is comprised of three lenses which is 'best' as there won't be any aberration in the viewing.

  This is my (well-worn) #5 lens with approximately 3x power magnification.

 These are "#77B, Burs" with another name of "Cup Burs". But I've modified the bur on the left of my oil-stone by shaving off much of the bur. I wanted the teeth of the bur to have greater contact with the claw tip.

 There will be many times when a FLAT graver will be used and the front tip MUST BE KEPT SHARP AT ALL TIMES. My Polishing Paper of choice is halfway between an "Emery and Polishing", hence I use a #800 grit paper.

  

 The underneath of the graver MUST BE SHARP AT ALL TIMES if it isn't in pristine condition, then there will be scratches on the claw when it's being used.

 This is my FLAT graver being inspected on the oilstone during the frequent resharpening processes.

 Here is the 'before & after' photo of the FLAT gravers. All gravers must have the HSS identification which symbolizes the strength of the blade, namely "HIGH SPEED STEEL". 

  The next essay on this important topic will show where these gravers will be used BEFORE and AFTER THE GEMSTONE STONE ARE SET.

 I decided not to make this essay too long to read. I found many photos of this 'finishing process' in my archives.