BEST method in setting a "Pear-Shape Diamond" ring. => 1 photo.

 I estimate this is one of the 'best' methods in setting an expensive Pear-Shaped  Diamond.

1) There is a very secure "V" shaped claw protecting the point of the stone.

2) The Bezel is well protecting the curved area of the diamond. This is very important.

3) Much of the curved girdle of the diamond is also well protected. 

4) How is the Pear-Shaped diamond set? When I prepared to set this stone, I placed the stone inside the bezel and scribed 'two little' marks. These little marks were the guiding spots while I was preparing a seat for the girdle. Why did I do this 'preliminary scribing'?

5) I didn't want any unnecessary 'bearing cuts' to be exposed. Basically, all I will show is the 'shape of the stone' laying against the Bezel Wall.

6) Finally, I wanted the Bezel Wall to remain clean and without any extra lines of bur cutting.

7) I emphasised that the 'metal over the curved areas' of the stone should offer me two things. "Security". The additional security is with the help of the "V" claw.

8)  There won't be any breakage during the constant wearing of this ring.

9) I "Bright-Cut" the inside of the Bezel and the V claw, why? I want the wearer of this beautiful ring to appreciate the high quality of Diamond Setting.

10) The amount of Bezel metal around the 'Girdle' must not be thin, but nice and thick. This is displayed in the photograph shown below.

  Now compare the setting of the Genuine Emerald that I wrote about on January 27th.

Errors in setting this 'Pear-Shape Emerald'

 There are many problems in setting this expensive Pear-Shaped Emerald. I will go by numbers and give my reasons. As a Diamond Setter for only 65 years, I've come across many techniques that this particular ring is lacking.

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1) There are 'no means of protection' in guarding the point of the stone from being further damaged. Already I can see a faint 'rounding' at the Emerald point. This 'absence of protection' is an expensive error in the design.

2) The wearer will have a tough time preventing further breakage from taking place.

3) The point of the Pear Shape will cut into the skin of the finger.

4) To protect further catastrophic breakage to occur, there must be a "V" shaped claw at

 the point.

5) The '4 claws' are too short, thus having no means to protect the stone from further          damage.

6) The '4 claws' have not been 'rounded' at the tip, thus leaving sharp edges, why?

7) All claw tips must be 'rounded & smoothed' and not be left in the 'condition' as being      seen here.

8) If I was the retailer or fashion conscience wholesaler, I would never let my client take this ring out of my office, or store. There would be instant 'negative feedback' from the  new client. 

9) The 4 claws were not trimmed or completed in an orderly fashion. There are extra slivers of metal on 3 of those 'mediocre' looking claws. 

  These comments are just my own personal thoughts when I saw this photograph. I am very sure you have learned much from this tutorial essay.

"Gerrylewy18@gmail.com"

What do "Shared Beads" look like"? => 17 photos

  In this essay, I'm showing what "Shared Beads" initially look like. Many of these photos explain how they are 'constructed and spaced' in the metal.

 These are not "CAD" designed and created, but by using 'mini-claws'. 

 I'd avoid using my Onglette graver to create beads as these wouldn't be strong enough. I chose the uniform protection & strength of large pieces of metal, aka claws.

 It is here that there is uniformity in the sizes of these 'strong' mini-claws.

   All of my metal cutting is completed before any gemstones are set.

 It is your choice to apply a 'Milgrain' edge, I'd avoid this step, as it doesn't enhance the overall design.

 Wherever there is a 'step' in the angles on the ring (as shown), follow it through with the metal cutting. I avoid making a 'curve' out of an 'abrupt, sharp step' design.

 

 This completed ring shows how much time has been spent in planning each step to fruition.

 In between each hole, there are 'little bars of metal', these bars will eventually be 'mini-claws'. I used a bud bur to create these new 'mini-claws'.

  This essay is built around two separate rings yellow & white gold. The diamonds must not be touching, but allowing enough metal to create the future claws.

 The large diamond MUST BE SET FIRST. It is virtually impossible to set the large diamond after the small stones have been set.

The first in the series of diamonds was the largest in the collection. Towards the end of the row were the smallest, thus giving a 'tapering' effect.

 This large diamond was lowered into the 'split shank' on purpose, why? The idea was to give me ample metal for creating the mini-claws.

  You can easily see how deep into the metal the stone is to sit. 

What is the actual depth of the large diamond? I prefer to have the 'Table Facet' of the stone to be at the surface of the 'split shank'.

 Initially, the first stage of drilling the holes is to have the stones well-centred and spaced equally along the diamond strip.

 Once the stones have been well spaced, it is now easy to start the drilling of the holes for these stones.

 These photos show the thought that has gone into 'spacing and setting'.

 When the stones are finally 'well-positioned and set', it is easy that the stones are now almost touching. The whole idea is to avoid having any slivers of metal remaining in between the mini-claws.

  

 This silver display plate, it shows 'what and where' the mini-claws will be situated.  I will use a Bead-Burnisher to push over the metal of the mini-claws to each stone.

Gemstone Studded => "CAD" created Poker-chip disks =>30 photos

 All of these photos were "CAD" created, and I gave these ideas directly to my CAD operator.

  If you are interested in copying any of them, please do so as I have 'no copyright ruling' on any of them. These are my gifts to you at NO CHARGE!

 When I was awarded my "Guinness World Record" my mind worked at a fast pace and I then created this line of jewellery.

 BTW, I have another tutorial essay with a complete line of 'casino related' jewellery blog dated "Sept.7th. 2024".

  For my American friends here is a 'Flag Disk' just for you!

 I chose to use "shared claws" on the outside row of stones.

 

  I chose to show not one row of gemstones but two layers of stones. This includes the Blue Sapphires you may use Emeralds, but all stones that you choose must be uniform in 'colours and sizes'.

  This CAD program details the weights & number of stones with their specific dimensions.

 Uniformity in sizes of stones is 100% critical, I can't impress you further with your stone choice.

Many of these designs can be in either 'white (Platinum) or yellow gold'.

  The colour of this disk could be in luxurious "Pink Gold".

  I personally like 'shared claw' settings, as this gives less metal being shown.

 This is the very 'lucky triple 7' in the gambling writing of numbers.

 

  Always keep the colours that you choose 'uniform'. Buying Emeralds is a very difficult task as well as setting them, I know this from past experience.

 When you are setting stones always have an extra supply in case of 'breakage'. I'd even suggest using your millimetre gauge constantly for size accuracy.

  I hope that you enjoyed these varieties of patterns. My previous essay shows more designs as my CAD operator kept giving me more patterns to use.

 

New video worth viewing on "GRAVER SHAPING".

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPVXSJjmaqc

  Here is a very important video lasting 15 minutes, it is about "Graver Shaping". This video was filmed at the "Ganoksin" offices many years ago and I just located this video and had the video link repaired.

"Rio Grande" and "Ganoksin" were instrumental in putting all of the graphics, text & spoken words together for this film.

 Many of my own photos were 'edited & spliced' into this film to make it even more appealing.

(If you are having any problems in not being able to access the video. I suggest that you retype this video link exactly as shown above).