Gemstone Studded => "CAD" created Poker-chip disks =>30 photos

 All of these photos were "CAD" created, and I gave these ideas directly to my CAD operator.

  If you are interested in copying any of them, please do so as I have 'no copyright ruling' on any of them. These are my gifts to you at NO CHARGE!

 When I was awarded my "Guinness World Record" my mind worked at a fast pace and I then created this line of jewellery.

 BTW, I have another tutorial essay with a complete line of 'casino related' jewellery blog dated "Sept.7th. 2024".

  For my American friends here is a 'Flag Disk' just for you!

 I chose to use "shared claws" on the outside row of stones.

 

  I chose to show not one row of gemstones but two layers of stones. This includes the Blue Sapphires you may use Emeralds, but all stones that you choose must be uniform in 'colours and sizes'.

  This CAD program details the weights & number of stones with their specific dimensions.

 Uniformity in sizes of stones is 100% critical, I can't impress you further with your stone choice.

Many of these designs can be in either 'white (Platinum) or yellow gold'.

  The colour of this disk could be in luxurious "Pink Gold".

  I personally like 'shared claw' settings, as this gives less metal being shown.

 This is the very 'lucky triple 7' in the gambling writing of numbers.

 

  Always keep the colours that you choose 'uniform'. Buying Emeralds is a very difficult task as well as setting them, I know this from past experience.

 When you are setting stones always have an extra supply in case of 'breakage'. I'd even suggest using your millimetre gauge constantly for size accuracy.

  I hope that you enjoyed these varieties of patterns. My previous essay shows more designs as my CAD operator kept giving me more patterns to use.

 

New video worth viewing on "GRAVER SHAPING".

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPVXSJjmaqc

  Here is a very important video lasting 15 minutes, it is about "Graver Shaping". This video was filmed at the "Ganoksin" offices many years ago and I just located this video and had the video link repaired.

"Rio Grande" and "Ganoksin" were instrumental in putting all of the graphics, text & spoken words together for this film.

 Many of my own photos were 'edited & spliced' into this film to make it even more appealing.

(If you are having any problems in not being able to access the video. I suggest that you retype this video link exactly as shown above).

What is a "Right-Sided, Onglette Graver?" => 22 photos

  All gravers come in a basic shape from your tool supplier. IT IS REQUIRED TO MODIFY  & ALTER THE SHAPE OF YOUR OWN GRAVER.

 In this tutorial essay, I will explore two routes: " modification and reshaping." I will also demonstrate what this graver can do to enhance your metal cutting.

 All photos of the displayed metal cuttings were not "Computer Aided Designed".

 This first photo shows how "Paper Polishing" removed all of the defects in the steel blade. The polished blade now looks like a mirror, which is what we are aiming for. 

 This plate of Genuine Emeralds was simply carved by an Onglette graver. When I attempted to set these precious stones, I had to set the stones into this plate 'very carefully' so as not to break any.

  Although the bottom blade is a "Flat graver", in this photo you can see how the above "Onglette" blade looks when it is untouched.

 This photo shows the preliminary stages of development from a roughly hewn blade to a semi-finished setting tool.

 This blade has been gently contoured to the shape that is needed for metal carving. It is not necessary to have the tip (large like a mountain) for metal cutting. The large size only makes any "Bright-Cutting" difficult to examine up close.

 It is easy to see that I've contoured the 'Graver Face' at a 45-degree angle. I'm aiming to have the right side of the blade to be used in metal carving.

 You can see the angle of the graver face starting to be seen. The 'left side' is not to be used, all of this angle-shaping is done on the oil-stone.

 Once the configuration of the blade has been achieved, now comes the 'paper polishing'. I'm using Polishing Paper with a 1,200-grit all of this shaping is on

the right side. 

 If you are 'left-handed', then all of these shaping techniques will altered for the left side of the graver.

 

 There are opportunities when engraving tools come already 'pre-shaped'. As seen in this photo, this is only 'half of the task'. You will see how thick these blades are. There is too much metal between the 'point and the curve'.

 The number "2/0" pertains to the actual 'cutting width', and the letters "HSS" refer to the designation of being "High-Speed Steel" which is the best there is.

 The only way that any Bright Cutting can be achieved is with an Onglette blade. This was not a CAD pattern, but originally just a 'Tube-Setting'.

 Please avoid using a Flat graver in cutting a circle, why is this? If I used a flat-shaped blade there would be facetting all around the 'Flush Setting'. 

 A 'Right-Sided' Onglette is truly the best manoeuvre in cutting circles.

 

 These are the 'best' length of gravers to buy as they can be modified to your own specifications, not someone else's. There is more room to do your own 'shaping'.

   These gravers were modified (to my needs) on my 'bench grinder'. The 'rough ends' are embedded into the adjustable graver handle and never used.

 This is my 'dream machine' aka bench grinder. Whenever I reshape my gravers, I ALWAYS have a little beaker of water within reach. If the graver gets too hot the steel softens and is not usable.

 I usually 'ink' the blade before the important shaping is to proceed. This is my guide in metal cutting as this is so very important. 

 When holding the steel blade I ALWAYS protect my skin with Laytex gloves and wear glasses. The metal shards can hit the eye Retina and cause severe visual havoc.

                  KEEP THE GRAVER BLADE 'COOL TO YOUR TOUCH'.

  The 'optimum' metal shaping length is an estimated 23.25mm or one inch in length.

 I personally use Polishing Paper of #1,200 grit on all of my 'ready to use' gravers. This will give me the 'next to perfect' results.

  I was taught to 'pre-cut' my stone-setting, as this will give me much freedom in metal cutting. All of the metal cutting that you see here is using only the "Right-Sided" graver. 

 'C.A.D.' was never intended to be used anywhere in these displays.

 When the opportunity arises the graver needs to be enhanced again. I was taught to 'rub' a soft pencil into the pores of the paper. 

The granules from the pencil get embedded into the paper and actually make the paper softer than #1,200. This particular paper gets to be now #1,600 grit without buying newer paper. Good idea?

  All of these metal cutting was done with "Right-Sided" Gravers. Now you can appreciate the necessity of making these gravers, these will be a favourite new cutting tool always at your disposal.

 The engraver also used a 'FLAT' graver for those extra wide cuttings.

Before you buy a 'Micromotor' (read this essay) - 23 photos

  I saw the question "Which is the best micro-motor to buy" on our "Orchid community questionnaire". I would like to comment on some of these (gem-setting) motors, and their attachments. 

 I'm not promoting one brand name over another in this essay, but the names are quite visible in the many photos. I like being 'neutral', you the reader can make the 'buying choice' yourself.

 I have this same micromotor on my bench and it comes with a foot (speed control) pedal. When the motor handle is not being used, it is resting in the handle slot-tube on the side. 

 Just where is the dual speed control? This means manually altering the speed at all times and wasting your time in doing so.

    WHY IS THIS A GREAT MICROMOTOR?

1) Easy-to-read display of speed reference numbers.

2) It has a foot pedal.

3) The handle is easy to hold and work with.

4) There is no need for a pole to hold the motor. It rests easily on your bench.

   

   What are the negative aspects of this 'handpiece'?

1) These hand-pieces are very wide for the hand to grasp.

2) There is no 'flex attachment'.

3) There has to be a key to 'tighten and release' every bur.

4) This is not good for a delicate gemstone-setting action.

 This assortment of features and burs is lacking one item. It is lacking the 'flex' on both handpieces, why is that?

I (almost) approved of this duo of hand-pieces. With the desktop, there is no foot pedal to control the quick changing of the speed.

 With this combination of speed controls, there is both the foot pedal AND desktop. I thoroughly approve of this arrangement!

The micromotor handle has its own resting pad. Good idea as it gives a place for the motor handle to rest, instead of being loose in and on the bench top.

                        

                          There are three problems here!

1) There is no 'flexible bending' during the setting processes.

2) The 'quick-release locking switch' can interfere with the operator's grasp on the handle.

3) Sometimes the 'quick-release switch' can pinch the skin & hand.

 With this motor assembly, there MUST BE A POLE to hold the heavy motor.

 There are few, if any advantages to purchasing these two handpieces. In my estimation, these are not good for gemsetting purposes.

 STUDY IF THESE HANDLES ARE GOOD FOR YOU?

 

 At the very tip of the hammer anvil is a 'diamond crystal' that when used (carefully) can create a 'textured surface' in the metal. This could be a real advantage to your specialized creative patterns.

 This is an anvil before it is hand-shaped to become a Reciprocating Anvil hammer tip.

 This style of motor assembly needs a pole to hold it to your bench.

 This is a very worthwhile micro-motor to purchase, why is this? It comes with foot-pedal & easy-to-read speed numbers on a digital display.

 This is the most common style of pole that is required to hold the heavy motor. It also comes with an added feature of extending the height, if required.

If the pole isn't tightened securely, it will easily fall over. WOOPS!

 This is the epitome of a great Reciprocating Hammer to buy, why?

1) It has a flex shaft in the handle.

2) The handle comes with its own key for minor adjustments.

 I have the same hammer at my bench, why not one for you?

 NO COMMENTS on this hammer is that it lacks many good features for the gemstone setting. I've discussed them above.

 The quick-release locking device might cut into the hand when activated. PLEASE BE CAREFUL! (or just don't buy it!)

 I bought one of these on a trial basis and returned it a few days later.

 This is the key to the basic style of handpiece. There are no other means of tightening or releasing your bur, except using this key.

 I would prefer a 'foot control' when making your purchase.

 Here are a few things to remember when thinking about buying this motor.

 1) A strong pole is required to hold the motor.

2) There is no 'flex shaft' on the handpiece.

3) There is no foot 'speed control' pedal being shown.

 In conclusion, I attempted to give you my preferences & opinions on the various styles of handpieces and micromotors. 

 I avoided any names of equipment but just listing the 'good' and 'best' choices.

 Beware of equipment that is manufactured in 'overseas' countries. "Just because the price is cheap does not mean that it's better".

 Buy with caution at all times.