How do you prepare for future metal cuttings? => 42 photos

 As I am writing my 555th tutorial essay, I would like to celebrate this occasion by introducing the skill involved in metal engraving. You might have seen the displayed large 'bangle bracelet' in my previous essays, these engraving techniques are worth repeating.

 A lady wanted me to scrap her collection of old jewellery, this bracelet was among the many items. I told her "Here are a few dollars for the silver, as I'm keeping this bangle bracelet for my students to learn engraving and what tools were used".

 The line of Bright-Cutting was finished with a FLAT graver. You can observe how reflective the metal is after the cutting with this graver. This bright cutting is even before any 'cloth-wheel' Rouge polishing was used.

 What are the gravers that were used in this essay?

A) Onglette #1,

B) Onglette #2,

C) Flat graver #40.

 Why have a large & thick blade to do all of your metal-cutting when a greatly modified Onglette will do the same cutting? There is much more control over the cutting of designs.

 Imagine what the metal-cutting aspect of our profession would be like if 'we' didn't have these basic 3 tools?

There was no "CAD" aka 'COMPUTER AIDED DESIGNS' used in these patterns.

 I have greater access to the metal and subsequent new designs with an Onglette graver that has been shaped to these specifications.

 When the Pave' area is greatly reduced, the 'modified' Onglette #2 or #1 blade has to fit into a smaller space.

 I'm showing the graver that I use on many occasions. The initials "HSS" signifies that the metal is of a higher quality of metal "High Speed Steel". The "0" refers to the width or thickness of the blade.

 This is a close-up of the front 'face' of the blade before any grinding that is to take place.

 Now compare these two blades 'before' and modification is to take place.

 With the preliminary fancy cutting, the only blade to use is the Onglette #1 or even a thinner Onglette #0.

All of those "0:-:0:-:0" cuttings were started with using the Onglette #1 blade. These cuttings are a multiple 3-4 step process.

 There is no other blade to start your cutting than to use an Onglette #0, or Onglette #1. The need is to make a cut using only the thinnest blade possible.

 I call this blade "a spear", as it looks just what it is, it won't cut any new patterns, but it must prepare for new designs.

This ultra-thin blade is also used specifically in preparing for the new 'in-between beads'.

 Here you can see just how thin the first cutting is being prepared. WE NEED A STRAIGHT DEEP LINE.

 This is a photo of a blade that is shaped to only cut on the right side. I name this blade a "RIGHT-SIDED, BRIGHT-CUTTING ONGLETTE GRAVER ". You can see just how highly paper-polished the blade is.

  The left 'unused' side of the same blade is not necessary to be so highly polished.

 Another feature of the same blade is to reshape the blade to be modified on your oil-stone. The new shape is to eventually cut at a 45degree angle.

I used a FLAT #40 graver to cut at an angle. These little cuttings were done BEFORE THE STONES WERE SET.

 The wider graver was only used to 'move the new beads' over the stones. Now compare the narrower blade to the 'bead-pusher'.

 I use a ROUND bur of #001 - #002 to excavate the 'in between' metal. This done AFTER cutting with the thin Onglette graver #0, the emphasis is to do this "round-burring" as deep as possible.

 I keep a large inventory of burs always in my bench, if one bur gets worn, I have another at moments notice.

 

The need is to cut as deep as possible, as to make future beads to firmly fit over & against each stone. "The deeper you cut with the round bur, the higher each new claw will be".

 All of these 'mini-claws' were originally...just flat metal. "My gravers are my tools of the trade". I used a thin round bur to dig deeper, thus giving me a wider straight line of cutting. 

 A rounded 'inside trough' is better for polishing, than a deep line of cutting in between these two lines of claw setting.

 If the beads are not high enough to move over each stone. I'd use the same process of cutting deeper into the metal. Isn't this a simpler idea? As you can see that CAD was never thought of, or used.

             (This is an out of sequence photo)

 With a thin round bur of #001, I would make a deeper burring into the metal, thus making the new claws higher for setting.

 With a thicker Onglette blade #002, I would move each bead, well over each stone.

There is no possible way any thick Onglette graver can cut this intricate pattern. I always stay within the boundaries of cutting with the hope of having a great finish. "I always think & plan ahead".

 Here is my 'Bead-Raiser" that has been greatly modified with a 'rounded point' just for moving beads.

 Just a repeat of using a round bur-carving a line into the metal.

Again, as I stated that this is not a CAD pattern, but a well executed series of graver cuttings. The Difficulty Level just on this STAR pattern is 20, out of 10.

I used only Onglette #0, #1, #002 and FLAT gravers. It served no purpose, except an exercise in metal cutting.

 Here is a greater image of the above "Star" taken with my 400x power microscope

  This "Triangular" section was initially a flat plate, again NO CAD was used.

 This is my 'FLAT graver of #40 width' after many times it's been used, it needs a full 'touch-up'. The underneath section needs to refurbished again, and again.

 I will use this 'refurbishing technique' as a 'new tutorial essay' in a few days from now.

  This is just a collection of some of my patterns all done with "ONGLETTE GRAVERS".

How to REMOVE shellac off of your jewellery? => 9 photos

 Once the item is secured on the shellac and subsequently finished, the item must be removed and thoroughly cleaned. 

 I prefer to put my gemstone setting and engraving on my 'shellac sticks' instead of buying the expensive 'pin-locking' systems.

 

  I made sure that the silver plate was secured for my engraving, I needed this plate to be also secured with extra shellac underneath.

 How am I to loosen the silver plate? I used my "Benzo-Matic" mini-torch and very gently heated the shellac to 'release' the plate.

             The 'cleaning process' is now about to start.

   I placed my silver plate into a jar of "METHYL HYDRATE". 

 I have two ultrasonic cleaning tanks, but I chose the stronger-acting tank shown in the next few photos. 

 With this stronger vibrating tank, this particular tank comes with an 8-minute timer. This cleaned my engraved silver plate in approximately 10 minutes. FAST and very thorough.

 Every few minutes, I removed the plate just to examine the 'cleaning progress'.

 On the dial, I discovered that 7 minutes needed to be longer for a thorough cleaning. Back into the "METHYL HYDRATE-bath" it went again!

 In a 'total immersion' time of exactly 10 minutes, my plate was then completely cleaned. Time was not a factor, but to have it cleaned was my intention.

By the way, this engraving was not engraved with the aid of any 'CAD' (Computer Aided Designing). This is because I wanted to make any alterations during the engraving stages.

What tools are available in your local 'HARDWARE STORE' ? => 20 photos

 Instead of going online for some basic jewellery tools, I HAVE ANOTHER SOURCE OF TOOLS FOR EVERYONE.

 I often frequent my local hardware store near where I live in Thornhill, Ontario, Canada. The owner has greatly helped me in the past in locating many 'specialty tools' for gemstone setting.

 (In our bi-lingual country of Canada, we have "FRENCH & ENGLISH", all of the packaging are in two languages.)

 (I'm not going to give prices in this essay, but these 'non jewellery' suppliers costs are just truly fantastic).

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 These 'needle files' can be used without any hesitation in our profession. They even have their own handle, WOW, eh? 

 I took a close-up photo of these files, I'd use them without any second thought.

 The nice thing about these files is that they all came with handles. There is no need to spend more money looking for handles when they are all attached to the tools.

 Upon looking at these emery burs, the little problem is the diameter of the burs. I suggest a separate 'adjustable, handpiece' to accommodate the larger diameter.

If a non-jewellery craftsperson can buy these sheets of emery papers, why can't we?

 These 'plastic and softer-bristle' file cleaners are just what I was looking for. Instead of buying one brush at a time, these three brushes came ALL IN ONE CONTAINER.

 These 'paper emery sheets' even have their own 'grit' displayed. No more guessing, "what is the grit"?

 Be always on the look-out for something that might be of use 'now, or later'. If you are searching for that one specific tool, then its there waiting to be used. Never say "I don't need it now".

Interesting assortment of screwdrivers? You are truly investing in 'your future of tools' at your bench.

 If you need a smaller coarse file, I'm sure that they will be made for 'us'.

 These are basically tooth-brushes for the average user, not for 'us'. We could use them to brush away any remaining 'shards of metal' while we are cleaning our delicate projects.

 If you are using silver, gold, platinum or even waxes. It is 'best' to keep these brushes separate and not to contaminate the brushes to each metal.

 I knew of a 'ring polisher' who kept all of his cloth-polishing wheels separate from each metal. His selection even went into 10kt, 14kt and 18kt gold especially polishing his Platinum jewellery.

 He would go 'totally ballistic' if someone mixed his polishing wheels without telling him. I heard his yelling one day. Contamination of metals even on cloth polishing wheels is totally forbidden.

 Supposing that you need to cut a metal tube, why would you use a saw-blade? The best route to use is this 'metal-tube' cutter that would cost you the equivalent of 'two cups of coffee'.

 These coarse files are great if you are using them for wax carving.

  I used these files for larger wax patterns and there is still wax-residue still in the file.

 I kept much of the wax still in the file just to prove that I used them and not just writing about it.

 Remember, these large files were bought in a "Dollar (hardware) Store" and not from any 'brand-name' tool supplier.

 These little rotary emery wheels were a part of a "DREMEL" tool package.

 What a vast display of mini-emery burs and at a 'cost saving experience'? All it took was a bit of 'looking' and researching into other 'tool avenues'.

 This plastic tray gave me a whole new appreciation of not staying within the realm of the brand name tool suppliers that 'we all know'. 

When I first saw this tray and its emery burs, I was truly excited over 'this discovery'.

"WHY PAY RETAIL, WHEN YOU CAN BUY THE SAME WITHOUT EMPTYING YOUR WALLET?"

How to drill holes in metal...correctly? => 10 photos

 Anyone can drill a hole, agree? But to 'drill a hole correctly', this is what we are aiming to do today.

 Why did I use a round bur to partially drill a hole? The answer is relatively easy, if I didn't, the twist-drill would be running around and not cutting any hole. This mini-hole aligns the drill to stay in one place. This is so very important in the first step of drilling any hole. 

 

 The 'twist drill' must never start the drilling process at an angle (as shown here) because the drill hole will also be on an angle and we don't want this to happen, do we?

 The best placement of the drill will be held in a vertical position.

 Before and during any drilling, the twist-drill must always be well-lubricated. This is to prevent overheating of the steel drill and aid in removing any metal residue. 

  This twist drill will literally overheat in seconds if there is no oil in the hole.

 Here you can easily see that the oil is clearly seen around the hole. I like to 'flood the hole' and surrounding metal with this lubricating oil.

 The twist drill is now been put to good use. I will drill through the metal with the aid of oil I want the drill to keep drilling until it has cleared the metal underneath

 This is the residue of metal, I painted the ring as I wanted the subsequent holes to be in one continuous line. 

 I located another thicker ring for drilling and again kept this thicker ring absolutely flooded with oil.

Please be aware that overheating of metal will even cause the steel to break during the drilling process. This is the most difficult aspect of drilling holes, if any steel is remaining in the ring, the chances of it being removed can be a major problem. 

 I would carefully lower my twist drill deeper into the ring in segments. Drill, remove, oil, drill again, remove and use oil.

 All of this is not an easy task but look at what could happen if there was not enough oil being used..OUCH! 

 In my collection of twist drills at my bench, I have drills ranging from 0.35mm up to 1.47mm. Each of them has its own purpose, being a gemstone setter these drills are important to be kept in a wooden box and not just lying around getting damaged.