Different purposes of GRAVERS - 31 photos

 Here are two shapes of gravers, The top is an Onglette shaped graver (this blade hasn't been shaped on the 'bench-grinder' yet) these are basically metal cutting tools. The lower blade is a FLAT graver that is primarily used in "Bright-Cutting".

Here is a front view of the same Onglette graver before it has ben shaped for just one purpose and that is to be used in Raising Beads in Pave' Setting.

 These two very similar looking blades have different needs, the blade on the left has a slightly curved bottom that allows the blade to create Pave' beads. The bottom of the graver won't enable the tool to break off during the Pave' processes.

 The blade on the right looks the same, but it is used only in metal cutting, you can see just how thin it looks. Both of the blades are "Onglette #2".

You can see how nicely polished the graver on the left looks. I can use this polished surface for "Bright-Cutting" as well.

 These two gravers are composed of HSS, namely "High Speed Steel". 

This precision steel will not allow the blade to chip during any metal cutting. All of my graver blades are composed of "HSS" for durability during the diamond setting process.

 These two blades also have many uses, each having their own purpose in stone setting.

The number #2 blade can be modified on the bench-grinder for "Bright-Cutting". As the number #0 is primarily used in initial cutting of the metal, hence it's name "Knife-edge".

  Polishing the graver is a skill all upon itself. I start with the #600 grit and slowly working up to the #1,200 grit.

 The next polishing paper is #800 grit, each grade of paper gets 'smoother to the touch'.

This #240 paper IS NOT A POLISHING PAPER. It is an EMERY PAPER, two different purposes. The Emery paper removes the rough texture created when the blades were created-made

 On this Polishing Paper of #1,200 grit is the best grit to use. I use a 'soft pencil rubbing' to make the paper 50% softer. It makes the paper equivalent to a #1,600 grit, without buying more papers. The soft 'pencil rubbing' gets into the pores of the polishing paper and make it SO MUCH SMOOTHER.

 I use the 'pencil rubbing' process on EVERY GRAVER that I use. Therefore keeping the gravers in 'pristine condition' at all times.

The number #39 is another name for a "Knife Edge" and #4/0 has the same width, but made from another tool supplier. "Buyer Beware"

 

 This photos displays the 'rounded' bottom of the Onglette #2 graver. This curvature can be created with the Emery paper #240 grit.

 

 This photo shows an ultra fine edge of the blade #4/0 aka "Knife Edge". This blade is used in the preparation of any Bright-Cutting that has to be made.

 Here are an assortment of various gravers all with different purposes in metal cuttings.

 I've being seeing extremely thick FLAT gravers, why are they thick? My FLAT gravers (shown here) do not need to be so thick as it prevents any delicate metal cutting.

 These three FLAT gravers are used either in Diamond Setting or in the Engraving processes.  

 This is the "Knife edge" graver, the 'front face' needs to be shaped thin. It is a delicate tool, but it's the application that makes it so great to have in your bench. I left the steel metal wide, as this will prevent any bending of the graver body as it's been used.

   The blade on the right is the Knife Edge #4/0 sitting beside the Onglette #2. Compare the overall widths of each graver to the other.

 These same gravers are laying on their side for another comparison view.

  In this photo displays the 'width and depth' of a graver cutting into the metal. You can see the polished cutting that has been done.

 This photo from a company who does their own graver shaping, I for one, do not approve of the thickness of the blades, as it is not needed one iota.

 These 'uncut & not shaped' gravers are the best for me. The reason is that I can design the graver to suite my own specifications.

""Adjustable" graver handles - 17 photos

 These 'Adjustable, graver handles' are the epitome of a 'graver handle'. This is because no matter the length of the blade, each blade can be 'adjusted' to the required length for YOUR HAND.

 No matter the length of your graver, each blade can now be used. 'You are really getting your dollars worth in the use of the blade'.

 I've chosen many lengths of gravers to prove my point, even the shortest blade will do what it's supposed to do. That is to aid you in gemstone setting, or engraving.

  I use two handles for one good reason, the handle on the left is for any Onglette graver. The 'wine coloured' handle is ONLY for my Flat graver blades. This is my way of keeping my blades separated.

As there is a 'slight curvature' on all of the Onglette blades, I chose a handle that will overcome this design problem. That is to buy a graver handle that has 2 screws.

 There is just one little problem with the "one screw" handle, IF THE 'SINGLE SCREW' GETS DAMAGED...(GOOD-BYE HANDLE).

 

What handle is best under 'normal' circumstances? Buy the '2-screw' handles, as I do.

 What is the optimum length of the graver in a handle? The length of the blade should not exceed the 'first' knuckle (as shown).

 I always have two handles in my work bench. One beige handle for an Onglette blade and a 'wine-coloured' for the Flat graver.

 It's my own method of grabbing the correct blade instead of searching for the correct graver and wasting my precious time.

 Here is another view of the 'graver & handle' (together) in my hand.

 

   These little pieces of bent steel are the 'keys' to tighten the graver blades into the handle.

 No matter the length of any of these Onglette blades, each can be used with no problems. This is the charm of the "Adjustable, graver handles".

 Imagine throwing away all of your FLAT gravers, just because of them getting too short? Those days are now gone.

  This is the photo of the box that this handle comes in. Now you know the 'correct name' when you start buying them.

 These are the "old-fashioned" handles that only allowed one length of blade to be used. As you can see that when I wanted to put a longer blade into this handle 'the wood split & broke'.

 

During the many years I've been buying these 'Adjustable Handles' without any second thoughts. I can't think of using any other handle.

REVIEW. Tube Setting & using '1/2 -Cutting Round Bur' - 28 photos

"Tube Setting" is a challenging aspect of Diamond Setting. There is only one way to do this and it's the correct way. There are NO SHORTCUTS to make this any easier.

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 Place your gemstone on top of the tube, there must be enough metal showing on the periphery. If there isn't, I suggest using another tube with a larger diameter.

If it's necessary to make the tube less wide due to the size of the gemstone, I suggest in trimming the outside edge with your Pillar file of #2 grit.

 The first bur that is needed is your HSS (High-Speed Steel) bur, not your 156C bur. The reason is that the bur teeth are too close together preventing a deep bearing cut into the metal. 

 The question is HOW DEEP INTO THE TUBE DO YOU START MAKING THE BEARING FOR THE STONE? The answer is quite easy, where the teeth end on the bur, is where the stone will eventually lay...(as shown).

  Where the HSS bur 'touched the tube-metal' is where the stone will be within the tube. This must not be any lower and of course no higher. I call this the "Optimum" depth!

 

Before any stone is placed into the smaller tubes, please remove any extra pieces of metal that will interfere with the drilling and setting of each stone.

 Each of these tubes must be of the same size, this is paramount in this project.

 Instead of hammering each mini-bezel. I chose to raise little beads around 4 spots on the stone.

At the depth is where you MUST USE A ROUND BUR to increase the cutting width. The width should be approximately the same width or size as the Girdle of the selected stone.

 Place the stone at the opening of the Tube and decide if the stone will fit into the opening.

 These are my selected burs for this Tube Setting project.

 Don't let the stone be set yet. We have more to do in the preliminary steps before any stone setting.

  With this 1/2 round bur (of my own invention) insert the CABOCHON BUR into the tube. Some of my peers don't approve of this, but I feel it could be a nice way of having the stone sit better. 

 Here is the 1/2 bur being lowered into the Tube. The flattened underneath section of the bur will cut into the tube-metal. Thus leaving a clean groove for the stone to sit.

 The stone is now IN THE TUBE FOR THE FIRST TIME. Make sure that the stone is not crooked and that the Table Facet is at the top edge of the Tube. If not, remove the stone and make the necessary alterations...NOW.

 In this photo, you can see where the Riveting Hammer is hitting the outside edge of the Tube. 

 

The Hammer angle is at approximately 45 degrees to the stone Facet.

 If you decide to use your Reciprocating hammer, (so be it)! Don't let the Hammer Anvil touch the inside lip of the tube bezel.

Again there shouldn't be any hammering at the inside of the Tube setting. NEVER HAVE THE ANVIL HAMMER HIT FLAT. You are ONLY MOVING THE METAL TOWARDS THE INSIDE EDGE. 

 After all of the hitting and hammering is done, there will be an extension of the Tube setting, DON'T WORRY ABOUT THIS...IT'S QUITE A NORMAL OCCURRENCE,

  This is how the top of the Tube looks. "Looks appear deceiving", don't worry as we will fix this NOW!

 Here is when we must remove that 'extra lip' of metal from all of the hammering that took place.

 With your "newfound friend" the Right-Sided, Onglette graver #2, you should Bright-Cut the inner metal of the Tube that is surrounding the gemstone.

 Not all of the setters or jewellers do this metal cutting, please be one of them (including me) who do this metal shaping.

 This procedure separates them from 'us', this process makes your setting look so much cleaner. Even in this photo, you can see the shiny surface.

 Continue the cutting equally around the circle, as this is what the customer will be seeing from now on. All of this cutting is being done with only one side of the Onglette graver. That is why the graver must be kept in a pristine condition at all times.

  After everything has been set and Bright-Cut, GENTLY remove the tube from the shellac and polish where necessary.

 DON'T OVERHEAT THE TUBE FROM THE SHELLAC. Are you happy with the results?