REVIEW. Tube Setting & using '1/2 -Cutting Round Bur' - 28 photos

"Tube Setting" is a challenging aspect of Diamond Setting. There is only one way to do this and it's the correct way. There are NO SHORTCUTS to make this any easier.

====================================================

 Place your gemstone on top of the tube, there must be enough metal showing on the periphery. If there isn't, I suggest using another tube with a larger diameter.

If it's necessary to make the tube less wide due to the size of the gemstone, I suggest in trimming the outside edge with your Pillar file of #2 grit.

 The first bur that is needed is your HSS (High-Speed Steel) bur, not your 156C bur. The reason is that the bur teeth are too close together preventing a deep bearing cut into the metal. 

 The question is HOW DEEP INTO THE TUBE DO YOU START MAKING THE BEARING FOR THE STONE? The answer is quite easy, where the teeth end on the bur, is where the stone will eventually lay...(as shown).

  Where the HSS bur 'touched the tube-metal' is where the stone will be within the tube. This must not be any lower and of course no higher. I call this the "Optimum" depth!

 

Before any stone is placed into the smaller tubes, please remove any extra pieces of metal that will interfere with the drilling and setting of each stone.

 Each of these tubes must be of the same size, this is paramount in this project.

 Instead of hammering each mini-bezel. I chose to raise little beads around 4 spots on the stone.

At the depth is where you MUST USE A ROUND BUR to increase the cutting width. The width should be approximately the same width or size as the Girdle of the selected stone.

 Place the stone at the opening of the Tube and decide if the stone will fit into the opening.

 These are my selected burs for this Tube Setting project.

 Don't let the stone be set yet. We have more to do in the preliminary steps before any stone setting.

  With this 1/2 round bur (of my own invention) insert the CABOCHON BUR into the tube. Some of my peers don't approve of this, but I feel it could be a nice way of having the stone sit better. 

 Here is the 1/2 bur being lowered into the Tube. The flattened underneath section of the bur will cut into the tube-metal. Thus leaving a clean groove for the stone to sit.

 The stone is now IN THE TUBE FOR THE FIRST TIME. Make sure that the stone is not crooked and that the Table Facet is at the top edge of the Tube. If not, remove the stone and make the necessary alterations...NOW.

 In this photo, you can see where the Riveting Hammer is hitting the outside edge of the Tube. 

 

The Hammer angle is at approximately 45 degrees to the stone Facet.

 If you decide to use your Reciprocating hammer, (so be it)! Don't let the Hammer Anvil touch the inside lip of the tube bezel.

Again there shouldn't be any hammering at the inside of the Tube setting. NEVER HAVE THE ANVIL HAMMER HIT FLAT. You are ONLY MOVING THE METAL TOWARDS THE INSIDE EDGE. 

 After all of the hitting and hammering is done, there will be an extension of the Tube setting, DON'T WORRY ABOUT THIS...IT'S QUITE A NORMAL OCCURRENCE,

  This is how the top of the Tube looks. "Looks appear deceiving", don't worry as we will fix this NOW!

 Here is when we must remove that 'extra lip' of metal from all of the hammering that took place.

 With your "newfound friend" the Right-Sided, Onglette graver #2, you should Bright-Cut the inner metal of the Tube that is surrounding the gemstone.

 Not all of the setters or jewellers do this metal cutting, please be one of them (including me) who do this metal shaping.

 This procedure separates them from 'us', this process makes your setting look so much cleaner. Even in this photo, you can see the shiny surface.

 Continue the cutting equally around the circle, as this is what the customer will be seeing from now on. All of this cutting is being done with only one side of the Onglette graver. That is why the graver must be kept in a pristine condition at all times.

  After everything has been set and Bright-Cut, GENTLY remove the tube from the shellac and polish where necessary.

 DON'T OVERHEAT THE TUBE FROM THE SHELLAC. Are you happy with the results?