Different purposes of GRAVERS - 31 photos

 Here are two shapes of gravers, The top is an Onglette shaped graver (this blade hasn't been shaped on the 'bench-grinder' yet) these are basically metal cutting tools. The lower blade is a FLAT graver that is primarily used in "Bright-Cutting".

Here is a front view of the same Onglette graver before it has ben shaped for just one purpose and that is to be used in Raising Beads in Pave' Setting.

 These two very similar looking blades have different needs, the blade on the left has a slightly curved bottom that allows the blade to create Pave' beads. The bottom of the graver won't enable the tool to break off during the Pave' processes.

 The blade on the right looks the same, but it is used only in metal cutting, you can see just how thin it looks. Both of the blades are "Onglette #2".

You can see how nicely polished the graver on the left looks. I can use this polished surface for "Bright-Cutting" as well.

 These two gravers are composed of HSS, namely "High Speed Steel". 

This precision steel will not allow the blade to chip during any metal cutting. All of my graver blades are composed of "HSS" for durability during the diamond setting process.

 These two blades also have many uses, each having their own purpose in stone setting.

The number #2 blade can be modified on the bench-grinder for "Bright-Cutting". As the number #0 is primarily used in initial cutting of the metal, hence it's name "Knife-edge".

  Polishing the graver is a skill all upon itself. I start with the #600 grit and slowly working up to the #1,200 grit.

 The next polishing paper is #800 grit, each grade of paper gets 'smoother to the touch'.

This #240 paper IS NOT A POLISHING PAPER. It is an EMERY PAPER, two different purposes. The Emery paper removes the rough texture created when the blades were created-made

 On this Polishing Paper of #1,200 grit is the best grit to use. I use a 'soft pencil rubbing' to make the paper 50% softer. It makes the paper equivalent to a #1,600 grit, without buying more papers. The soft 'pencil rubbing' gets into the pores of the polishing paper and make it SO MUCH SMOOTHER.

 I use the 'pencil rubbing' process on EVERY GRAVER that I use. Therefore keeping the gravers in 'pristine condition' at all times.

The number #39 is another name for a "Knife Edge" and #4/0 has the same width, but made from another tool supplier. "Buyer Beware"

 

 This photos displays the 'rounded' bottom of the Onglette #2 graver. This curvature can be created with the Emery paper #240 grit.

 

 This photo shows an ultra fine edge of the blade #4/0 aka "Knife Edge". This blade is used in the preparation of any Bright-Cutting that has to be made.

 Here are an assortment of various gravers all with different purposes in metal cuttings.

 I've being seeing extremely thick FLAT gravers, why are they thick? My FLAT gravers (shown here) do not need to be so thick as it prevents any delicate metal cutting.

 These three FLAT gravers are used either in Diamond Setting or in the Engraving processes.  

 This is the "Knife edge" graver, the 'front face' needs to be shaped thin. It is a delicate tool, but it's the application that makes it so great to have in your bench. I left the steel metal wide, as this will prevent any bending of the graver body as it's been used.

   The blade on the right is the Knife Edge #4/0 sitting beside the Onglette #2. Compare the overall widths of each graver to the other.

 These same gravers are laying on their side for another comparison view.

  In this photo displays the 'width and depth' of a graver cutting into the metal. You can see the polished cutting that has been done.

 This photo from a company who does their own graver shaping, I for one, do not approve of the thickness of the blades, as it is not needed one iota.

 These 'uncut & not shaped' gravers are the best for me. The reason is that I can design the graver to suite my own specifications.