How do you "Flush-Set" a Square Gemstone? => 38 photo's

 The Rate of Difficulty is measured by the problems that could occur. I'll place this essay at 25, out of 10. Each photo being shown

could ultimately lead to more problems, I'm here to avoid these situations.

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1)  For the first instruction, always closely examine the gemstone for any breakage (anywhere). The 'corners' could be the first place that these might occur.

2) I would use a Bud-Shaped bur to initially enlarge the round hole.

3) Drill the hole vertically, then rotate the bur until the hole gets to be larger.

4) Use  "Medium" grade emery paper to remove the unwanted  bur-edge.

5) Select a Bud-bur that is 70 =>80% the size of the stone.

6) Calculate 'roughly' by site, how large you should open the hole, but not same size.

7) SELECT A STONE THAT HASN'T A THICK GIRDLE. This stone being displayed, is too wide.

   8) Scribe in ink where the corners will be situated. This is exactly where there corners of the stone will be eventually cut & drilled.

  9) Clean the 'flat surface', remove as many of indentations as you can.

10) This ROUND bur is too large, either select a smaller stone or a smaller bur, but some changes have to be made...HERE & NOW!

 

 11 ) Always keep a wide supply of burs in case of sudden changes.

12) =>Be careful of what burs you are choosing, one error or mistake, could lead to many problems.

13) Remember those 'corners' that you scribed? Use a Round bur to drill an indentation (half-deep) into the metal. Not at the same depth as the surface, but allowing "Table of the stone" to be eventually set.

14) Clean out the 'angled corners' as we are allowing the Pavillion of the stone to 'rest' against at 4 spots.

15) Please use a large round bur to clear more metal for the Pavillion

 16) Do the corners of the stone match exatly where the 'scribed corners' are, as planned? 

17) Examine for any defects 'at the corner facets'.

                  

18)  The corners of the stone MUST BE EXACTLY WHERE YOU 'SCRIBED' IN THE METAL.

19) Use a mini-round bur and drill a groove from the surface and at 45 degrees into the hole.

20) THIS IS EACTLY WHAT WE ARE AIMING FOR...A SQUARE HOLE.

21) At all times we are aiming for A 'SQUARE HOLE'. The round hole is now a thing of the past.

22)  Visually inspected hole is adamant in relationship to the stone.

23) Use your round bur that is the same width of the girdle of the stone...drill into the corner, as seen here.

24) It appears that some of the walls of the bezel are not properly aligned.

25) The corners of the bezel are still not aligned and must be redrilled before the stone is set. 

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26) SELECT WITH THE UTMOST CARE a round bur that is slightly larger than the Girdle of the stone.

27) Connect (or join) the '4 spots at the corners'. This where the stone will now rest, or sit.

 

                  

28) This is the ultimate resting place of the square stone. You can now understand why all of the 'horizontal drilling' was being done.

29) NEVER...NEVER allow the Culet of the stone to protrude, as seen here. Always select a thicker wedding band that you are eventually designing.

30) Paint the surface of the ring as a reference to your 'anvil hitting'.

31) Use your light-weight hammer at the sides where the hammer has 'touched'.

32) Now you can hammer at the 4 sides, but not at the corners...yet!

33) Gently hammer the metal down on the corners. Now with the paint being removed, you can see where the hammer touched. GREAT IDEA, EH?

34)  I would at this stage of setting, gently & evenly tap all around the 4 sides.

35) Keep the 4 inner walls of the bezel, in pristine condition.

36) "Bright-Cut" the inner bezel wall. 

37) GENTLY remove ALL of the little defects that remained from the hammering.

 38)  This diagram explains in better detail what has transpired during this long & difficult setting process.