Triangular 'wax => wire' settings => 12 photos w/ diagrams

                           Here is something very different.      

    From a wax to a silver setting is 'almost' easy.

1) These two (shared) claws have much in common, as the centre wax claws will allow the two triangular stones to be set.

2) The 'outside two claws' have one purpose, that is to bend over the end corners of the silver claws.

3)  The inside of the wax opening must be contoured to accept the Pavilion facets. 

REMEMBER: THE 6% RULE OF WAX => METAL SHRINKAGE.

 This is predominantly the 'unseen rule' that many jewellers who do their own casting seem to forget, pity!
4) The inside two claws should be somewhat thicker to accommodate the two triangular stones.

5) After metal casting, always check if the two stones are sitting correctly and aligned with the new casting.

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                    If care is not used, what happens next?

  Just one word can be used..BREAKAGE. If care is not taken during the stone setting, especially at the corners..WOOPS!

 

  Although these two stones are CZ, namely Cubic Zirconia, breakage is almost a common occurrence.

 These 'bearings' for these stones need to be carefully scrutinised, as this is where some problems can easily occur.

 I would be remiss if I neglected to mention that the bearings must accommodate the Girdles of the stones.

                                  Bezel setting using pliers.

  I would avoid 'pushing the metal' towards the stone. It is much simpler if the metal were tightened with the pliers' jaws, instead.

  In setting a stone of this design, the rule is to have the bezel be 'equally contoured' and never bent out of shape.

  In this photo, you can now see just how nicely the sides of the bezel are being shaped. Accuracy is foremost in gemstone setting.

 With these (strange-looking) plier jaws, the ease of tightening is also very important to the jeweller/setter.

                                  Bezel Setting => Diagrams

 Having the 'sides of the bezel tightened' is quite different from this diagram than in the metal. 

But you can see the idea that all the sides of the bezel must be drawn together..EQUALLY.

 When the setting of the bezel has been completed. The next process is in 'filing & trimming'.

 I suggest filing the metal with a triangular file with a #4 grit. You can see from this diagram that the filing angle is at a 45-degree angle.

 There are many more technical aspects in gemstone setting; suffice to say, I could keep on writing for more pages.