Friday 6 September 2024

"Shared Claws" on a Diamond "Eternity" Ring - 15 photos.


 The only requirement needed is that ALL OF THE DIAMONDS NEED (must) BE THE SAME SIZE. There cannot be one stone larger or smaller in the collection of stones, NO DEVIATION. 

  I thoroughly examined the size of each stone, and there were little differences from 0.30 to 0.318 mm. SIZE IS IMPORTANT, as we will soon see in this essay.

 I separated the largest from the smallest and prevented those stones from being set. I never relied upon the 'size by sight'. 

 I used my HSS (High-Speed Steel) undercutting bur was my 'chosen tool'. These burs were almost the same size as each stone. NOW YOU KNOW WHY I KEPT MY STONES UNIFORM IN SIZE.

 You can easily see the bearing cuts inside of the two claws. The Pavilion setting area was carefully cleaned from any minor casting defects. I wanted to have EVERY STONE SITTING EVENLY.
 The double-claws when brought together would 'hold & grab' the two diamonds together. 

 When drilling of the claws, I would hold the bur at an angle of 30-45 degrees and prepare the cutting of the two claws in unison.
 Each drilling of the bur had to be lubricated continually, overheating of the burs can be a major problem for the setters.

    NO DIAMONDS SHOULD OVERLAP EACH OTHER'S 'GIRDLE EDGES'.

   With a 'Round shaped' bur, all of the underneath holes must be 'counter-sunk'. This leads to a uniformity of the hole shapes and sizes.   


 My 'presentation ring box' is where the ring should be kept for viewing by the customer.

 I was so very proud of my creation, that is why I took many photos after the ring was completed.

  This blue light was by accident, as my bench light gave the ring an 'added sparkle'.


 A little reflection of light from my bench lamp gave a little 'spray of light' from the stone facets. NICE EFFECT?

 Long before the ring was polished, I used my Pumice Wheels consisting of #180 and #1,000 grits. This was to remove any marks when the pliers that were used in the actual stone-setting process.

       "Shared Claws" come in various sizes, as shown in this 'cluster of stones'.

 

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