In this essay, I show many views of how a Princess-cut stone should appear during its setting process. This is different from any '4-claw round stone setting' as there could be many problems associated with this 'square stone' setting.
On a scale of 10 on my "Difficulty Scale". I'd place this at a '20, out of 10', if not higher.
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Setting a square, "Princess-Cut Diamond" is a definite challenge, many of these diamonds shown in this essay are worth mega-thousands of dollars.
This square diamond must be set symmetrical with the placement to the end bezel claws. There must not be any trimming of the corners to make them rounded.
These round claws must not be thinned to make them less secure. The claws were made with one purpose, and that is should be to hold the stone secure & with extra security.
I etched a faint line on the side of the claws for one reason, and that was to measure the depth of where the stone would be sitting within the 4 claws. With this initially, there is no guesswork involved.
When setting a square stone within the basket of the 4 claws is of major importance. The visible Culet must ALWAYS be in the centre of the 4-claw setting. Rotate the ring many times & check for this ruling.
Are all of the 4 claws on the corners of the square stone?
When a customer offers you to have the rectangular stone to be set, always observe if the claws are gently spread apart evenly. The diamond must have 1/2 of the metal of the claws appearing to cover the stone.
I ask you to pre-polish the inside of the 'claws and the basket', if not there won't be any chance to polish AFTER the stone has been set. Do all of your cleaning NOW!
Are all of the 'Vee" shaped claws "meeting, or touching" the corners of the square stone? Do the 'checking' before the stone has been tightened.
Keep the 'Vee' shaped claws in line with the corners of the stone and of the Pavilion.
When you have finished the "alignment process" remove the stone and start your drilling for the corners of the claws.
This is the most delicate stage of setting of the square stone. Use your pair of pliers and GENTLY bring together the two claws.
The positioning is done 'side-by-side' but NEVER SECURE THE TWO OPPOSING CLAWS. If you do you, better be looking for a stone polisher to recut the breakage!!!
In preparation for setting this "thick" stone keep in mind where the Pavilion of the stone will be resting. Contour all of your drilling to accommodate the stone, this includes the claws and the angles underneath where the corners of the stone will eventually be sitting.
Always check how the stone will be sitting inside of the 'basket'.
If redrilling is warranted, please do this NOW. The claws must be touching the stone and not use any direct force.
For the rule of checking for a correct setting position, align the Culet to the centre of the V-shaped head. This is the most delicate and important aspect of setting any stone, let it be Round or Square.
REVIEW: Are the 4 claws in line with the 4 corners of the stone?
When you are dealing with a rectangular-shaped stone, keep in mind that the 4 claws are against the corners.
If the stone is a Bezel & Bead-Set configuration, do all of your Pave' bead-setting FIRST! I honestly suggest that all of the 'pre-polishing' is completed before the Bezel Setting is initiated.
If by any chance that the square stone is longer than wide, in which direction must the stone be sitting? Look at how the 'inked stone' is being shown here.
Consider the direction of the finger, is it wide or long. Then the stone length must be in line with the finger, not in the width.
When I was 'given' a Princess-stone to set, I ALWAYS MEASURED EVERY STONE for the above-stated ruling. I purposely inked that stone to find the widest of the 2 measurements.
It was MY LAW to measure any Princess Stone for any deviation of 'length to width' long before any stone was set.
I didn't want to return the ring that was incorrectly set. "Any unhappy customer is a lost customer".
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