"Filing & Claw Trimming " on a 4-claw setting. - 21 photos.

 The most attractive thing to see on a 4-claw setting are the claws. I hate to see large chunks of metal covering a beautiful and expensive diamond. 

 (This essay is not on the actual stone setting, but it's delicate finishing.)

This process is similar to an artist 'sculpturing' his diamond claws.

The Level of Difficulty is at an '8 out of 10'.

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What tools are needed in this exercise?

1) Pumice wheels #180 grit (Blue colour).

2) Pumice wheels of  #1,000 grit (Pink colour).

3) Emery, "Snap-On" Wheels (Medium, 220grit)

4) Triangular file, 8" in length, with a soft grit of #4. 

 These pumice wheels need to be BOTH of a 'Flat' and 'Tapered' configuration.

 I've borrowed 11 photos from other essays, but more will be seen here for the first time.

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 I like rounded claws, but many times there is a little piece of metal around the claw.

 My answer is to file each of these claws with my Triangular file of #4 grade, therefore there isn't any sliver of metal remaining.

 All of the sides of each claw MUST BE CLEANED AND HIGHLY POLISHED PRIOR TO ANY GEMSETTING.

 In this photo you can see the remnants of some 'extra metal' surrounding each claw. This is not nice to see under greater magnification.

 Before any High Speed Steel (HSS) drilling is to be used, I will use a bud shaped bur and prepare for the seat to be made.

If I didn't use this bud bur, the results could be catastrophic, how is this? The bur could verily be seen with many stone setters as the HSS bur wraps itself around the claw.

 The result is that the teeth of the bur will dangerously 'dig into the claw' as it rotates around the metal.

 Here you can see the after-cutting from the HSS bur. It looks nice, agree? NO! what if the Girdle of the stone is too thick? What do you think what we should do now?

 I'd use a bud shaped bur and prepare a space for that thicker Girdle, simple as that!

 This is the prime example of attempting to set a wide (thick) stone where it wasn't created.

 To have the claws laying FLAT TO THE TABLE-FACET, I truly suggest that using an Emery 'Snap-on' disk at #220 grit and avoid using a 'Pillar' file.

 In finishing this process, all of your claw tips will be of the same height and having the same thickness of metal on the stone.

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 All of the intricate and detailed designs must be cleaned long before any stone is set.

 This photo shows the old & worn emery disk, the one below is the newer wheel. These are quite cheap and if any wheel 'has seen better days', get rid of it!

 All of these Emery disks are of a #220 grit and wonderful to use in 'cleaning and finishing'.

 The following 2 photos are showing why I wouldn't use these wheels again. All of the necessary "Emery Compounds" have been worn away and the wheel is no longer useful. Get rid of it!!!

   Here is a photo of another (excessively used) Emery wheel ready to be discarded.

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 Here are the newest photos that will be an addition to my future 'essay-archives'.

 There was a little flange remaining from the wax-injection and the caster who drew the wax neglected to see it.  I saw it after it was cast and it was removed before stone setting.

 Here is a stone setting that is slightly off center, but still acceptable. The Culet doesn't coincide with the pattern/design of the ring.

I used a #003 Bud-shaped bur to prepare for the HSS bur cutting.

As you can see that the 'seats' for the stone have been carefully prepared.

  Once that the seats are drawn for setting, we can start the actual stone setting.

  The front of the 4 claws are now 'filed & trimmed' on it's way for the final 'claw finishing'.

 These 'final steps' are quite easy to manage, as most of the difficult work in setting has already been completed.

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 The sides of the claws have been nicely shaped and now comes the 'trimming'.

This trimming should be given equal care on ALL 8 SIDES, OF THE 4 CLAWS. I use a Triangular file of #4 cut (smooth texture).

 On the back end of the 4 claws is where a 'rounding' is made. This leaves the claws smooth and with no sharp corners.

 To give more of a smoother finishing, I use BOTH #220 GRIT and a #1,000 PINK Pumice wheels that will  give a higher texture & luster.

 This will reduce the need for an intense cloth wheel polishing that will wear the claws long before the customer gets her ring.

Finally finished, eh!!!!!