MORE details of "PRINCESS-CUT, Diamond Setting", these MUST be read again. (18 photos)

 This topic has been covered numerous times in previous tutorial essays. Once again, I see many questions on our own Orchid-Ganoksin on "How to set Princess-Cut, Square Diamonds".

  With the utmost detail, I will again explain 'what to do & not to do and why'?

 In each corner, at 1/3rd from the tip of the claw is where the corners of the 4-Princess stone will permanently sit.

 For easier access to the drilling of the four corners, I ALWAYS 'open up' the claws as this allows my burs to get to the areas where they are needed.

  As I attempt to close the corners again, the stone will rise up and find it's new resting spot.

    Always be careful that the stone is well placed into the frame where the stone will be forever seated.

 Bring together all of the 4 claws. These 4 claws MUST BE SYMMETRICAL in all of the 4 views. Please be so very gentle, as this stone could be worth thousands of dollars.

 

 At this point in the setting, be weary of the spaces between the stone and the inside of the claws. The Princess stone must sit flush with these claws..NO SPACES MUST BE SEEN.

  Please observe the alignment of the "Girdles" in relation to the Bezel of the settings. A 'crooked stone' just never looks nice, agree?

  The size of hole in the 4 corners, is totally dependant upon the thickness of the Girdle.

 Just for appearance, I put the ring on my steel mandrel. At this point, I suggest that all "finger sizing" should be attended to NOW! 

  Keep the overall widths all of 4 claws nicely trimmed. You just don't need large amounts of metal holding onto the stone, if you have that amount, WHY?

 BTW, I used my FLAT graver #40, to Bright-Cut the inside of the 'VEE' shaped claws. How many Diamond Setters do this 'finishing touch' on the inside of their claws?

 => REVIEW ON SOME VERY IMPORTANT 'PRINCES-CUT' SETTING FACTS <=

 As you can see, I've carved a 'downward cut' from the round bur drilling spot down to the (near) base of each claw. 

 This is where the 'corners of the Princess Pavilion' will be resting. No parts of the stone  should be in contact with any of the rough metal. 

 

 I made a mistake, in not photographing where the Pavillion of the stone will be resting against the inside of the bezel frame. This can be cleaned with a FLAT graver or a large Bud-shaped bur of (at least) #007 in size.

          => REVIEW & OBSERVE <= 

  Again, realign the sides of the stone to the inside of the 'bezel, four walls'. This is the only opportunity that you have in doing this procedure, as this is so important.

 

  With your Pumice wheels of #180 grit  using either Tapered & or Flat clean off any remaining marks from any plier marks remaining on the ring. DO NOT RELY UPON your Cloth Polishing wheels, why?

 These aggressive polishing wheels will only ruin any sharp corners that are needed. PLEASE DON'T USE ANY FILES. They will again, leave stirations 'in & on' the metal.

 You can use your "SNAP-ON" Medium grit, fine textured Emery wheels to clean the ring where required.

    Here is the final photo of the finished "Princess-Cut" Diamond ring. 

Just for some fun, I took a photo of some metal shavings that my FLAT graver used in the metal cutting.