(REVIEWING) Diagrams of "GYPSY SETTING". (10 photos)

 This essay only shows diagrams, as I can 'create & draw' my instructions easier.

 This first drawing is what 'we' should be aiming for. The "Table" MUST not be at the same level as the metal, the reasons will be explained further.

 When you are using your "156C" that's made from Carbide steel, have the rotating edge simulate the dimensions of the stone. The rotating teeth will do the accurate metal carving of a seat for the "Girdle" of the stone.

 Hold the Carbide bur at a 45-degree angle, this bur will create a "Girdle" groove for the stone.

 How far into the metal should you cut? The depth as shown here, is important in this initial setting process.              

 

 There are TWO separate cuts to be made. The first is for the "Girdle" and the second cut is for the "Pavillion" of the stone. NO SHORT-CUTS are permitted in Diamond Setting, anywhere or anytime.

 Look at my diagram, why? The bearing MUST be at the same depth all around the opening, if not, you will have a crooked stone.

 This is the exact depth of the bearing carving that you are aiming for. "Nothing more and nothing less".

 This diagram is self-explanatory.

 There must be no reason to have the "Culet" of any stone in "Gypsy, or Flush Setting" be lower than the metal. If it is, the stone will cut into the skin of the person's finger.

   It is now time to see how your drilling of the 'bearing' is working for you.

   I use a very simple process of 'pushing the metal down' unto the Girdle Facets, how is this done? I use a 'Reciprocating Hammer' as then I am 100% sure that the metal is evenly sitting on the stone.

 You are basically 'gently moving the metal towards the edge', but not severely flattening it down.

 Once the metal is secured over the stone, then and only then should "Bright-Cutting" be done in the inner circle of metal around each and every stone. 

 I will sometimes use a Flat graver, but using an Onglette graver #2 on most occasions.

 

 Make sure that the tool that you selected is not touching the stone if it is or does, 'bye-bye stone'!

 

  In this final diagram, a full clean-up with a "Snap-On" Emery Wheel all of the hammer 'hits'. This is needed before any cloth-wheel polishing.

 

 I'm hoping that these diagrams aid you in creating something interesting for your client.