During the course of gem & diamond setting, one important tool that is required, is a 'metal pusher'. These come in all shapes and types of metal.
Why are these so important? Let me just say at the onset, these are used in 'levelling stones', 'pushing over bezels & claws prior to their setting. I've used them as well as against Expensive Emeralds down to the basic Cubic Zirconia and (soft) White Sapphires.
============================================
COPPER PUSHER: These should be used with the great care along with Emeralds of the 6.5 Mohs Scale of softness. Many times I will drill a little hole (indentation) at the tip to have the claws enabling this tool to sit over the stone.
I don't want to flatten any of the claws while being set. That little hole will cover and embrace the tips of the claw.
In this photo, I haven't (yet) improved on the shape of the indentation or hole.
Here I am using my round bur to clean and enlarge the hole. The required 'bur hole, size' is depending upon the immediate needs while in the setting process.
BRASS PUSHER: As Brass is much stronger than Copper, it will give me 'more strength' in pushing, or moving the Oval Bezel against the stone as required. I like to keep my pushers small and not to be too large while in my hand. I use these 'pushing tools' as "extension of my fingers".
In this interesting photo, you can see 'how & where' the round bur is drilling into the metal.
STEEL PUSHER: I will create a 'textured' surface to prevent any undo 'slippage' in the process of gemstone setting. With a Steel pusher, any shaping is nearly possible. The only recourse is to use your "Separating Disks".
In this splendid photo, you can observe how the disks are making a 'textured surface'. I prefer a # pattern on the very tip of this steel pusher. The textured surface grips the metal thus preventing any slipping. (Don't use your 'Florentine' graver on steel.)
I will gladly use this Steel Pusher for Channel Setting, I need a secure piece of metal to wrap against each stone. Whereas Copper and Brass are not strong in tensile strength to be used, a Steel pusher does what is required.
I'm hoping that tutorial essay has been of some help to you in setting soft & genuine stones. Many of these tools are well over 60 years old and still being used.
No comments:
Post a Comment