Diamond Setting & Metal Cutting. #1, of 2 examples => 7 photos

 During my 9-year apprenticeship, I was fortunate to use my gravers extensively. This got to a point where I was one of 6 setters in the company who enjoyed this metal-cutting process. The remaining 5 setters just couldn't get the techniques down correctly.

 As this was long before CAD (computer-aided design) came along, we had to cut the intricate patterns one ring at a time. Although it was tiring, I managed to excel in this craft. This was ONLY 66 YEARS AGO.

 Here are the exact shapes and patterns as they were made for this company. ENJOY, eh!

This official I.D. photo is #404.

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  I drilled a hole into the silver, as silver is quite soft for this intricate metal cutting.

 I used my #2, shaped Onglet graver to cut a 'V' shape, leaving two metal pegs. These two 'pegs' will eventually be future beads that will be moved over the gemstone.

 These 'V' cuttings must be dug DEEP into the metal. Please, there are no shallow cuttings. Where at the edges of the 'V' there should be two cuts (as shown here). These deep cuts are very important for the ongoing pattern that's now being created.

 When you've started to cut the initial outline, cut again with your graver. Each subsequent cut with this blade, must be almost held vertical. By this, I mean DON'T LEAN THE GRAVER  ON AN ANGLE.

 Repeat your metal cutting until this (photo) shape has now appeared.

 With your same Onglet graver #2, a secondary line should be cut carefully cut to create a line. 

Start your cutting without 'slipping' along the metal. This is not easy, as much care should be taken.

 Start your line cutting from the middle of the line and STOP right at the corner. This action will give you exactly a clean 'pattern' cut.

 REPEAT THESE LINES OF CUTTING DEEP. We need a deep line just to make access for the Flat graver cutting that will NOW start.

 Initiate the first Flat Graver cut at the BASE OF THE "V" and finish at the middle of the pattern. On a Scale of 10 for Difficulty, this is a definite 10. 

 I'm using a #40 width Flat graver for any of my metal cuttings. As you can see, my Flat graver cuttings start where the beads are located. From the point, I'll extend my graver cut DEEP and NOT ALLOWING THE GRAVER TO LEAN ON ONE SIDE.

   After many weeks of your practising,  you will succeed in creating patterns like these.

What burs to use in setting a round, "Brilliant-Cut" shaped gemstone => 18 photos

 We all know how to set diamonds, agree? But the exact rules differ for setting a large round stone in an engagement ring. Not to mention what kind of burs to use? This is where your experience & training start.

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 These two burs are the epitome of setting tools that will prepare the claws for gemstone setting. These burs are shaped exactly like the stone with the same angles as a diamond.

 When I need a bur to fit the gemstone, they are all placed in my wooden box. They are all in sequential order, from small to large. I have no need to search and waste my time, where that bur is.

 CUTTING A 'SEAT' FOR THE GEM-STONE: 

 The only bur that is to be chosen is the HSS bur, why? This bur has the very same shape as the stone. 

 In my diagram, I suggested a "156C", but when we are dealing with larger stones, I'd stay with the High Speed Steel bur as the dimensions are the same as the stone.

This diagram was created to show the placement of the bur in relationship to the claw. Please notice how the bur is angled.

 In this essay, we are dealing with a basic 4-claw setting. Please notice that the 4 claws are at equal distance from each other.

 This '156c' cutting bur has a 90degree angle shape, but not to be confused with the HSS bur with the same angles. The only difference is the spacing and depth of the bur teeth.

   I sometimes suggest, for a small stone setting, to round the tops  BEFORE the actual stone setting. This is not required with a larger stone setting.

 The rounding of the claws is not done with a file, but only with a "77B", Cup Bur. Using these burs, the tips will be of equal shape.

 Here is a side-view of the 156C setting bur. You will notice that the close proximity of the teeth and the depth of the claws are quite shallow. This in itself is not good for the aggressive cutting that is required.

  Here is an assortment of "77B" Cup Burs. The selected bur must be 30-50% larger than the claw; this will allow the bur teeth to cut and shape the claw tips.

 Here is another close-up view of the "156C" bur. This bur actually has 5 names to it, and they are all equally acceptable.

 When the edges of the teeth of the 156C bur get worn, they can't cut, and they can't be repaired, as seen in this photo.

 With the larger HSS burs, there is an excellent chance of repairing the worn teeth. This technique has been discussed in depth in recent essays.

  The two front burs in this photo need to be recut. This is a common occurrence with the bur cutting into the white metal in the gold. ALWAYS BE AWARE OF THIS ONGOING PROBLEM. There is no need to be alarmed; it happens all the time.

  As the 156C burs are reasonably priced, I always have duplicate or triplicate burs for each size. As a Diamond Setter, I always had a vast inventory to have at my disposal.

 For very small stones, as seen here, I didn't use the very aggressive HSS burs. The reason is that those burs would cut deep and ruin the delicate claws.

 When you are getting ready to start drilling the claws. I suggest that you should 'spread out' the claws. This will enable you to get the bur into the inside of the claw setting basket.

 As I mentioned just before, the HSS bur is too aggressive for small

stones as seen here.

 

 

 All new burs need to be well cared for; this is why I keep them in the plastic container AND WELL OILED in case rust starts.

 

  You have an option as to which bur to use. I suggest a bur that has the same angles as that of a gemstone.

 I don't entertain using a 'bearing-cutter'as the angles are too shallow for a stone setting application. The angles of the gemstones should be the same as the bur.

  The simple process of setting a gemstone is not that easy. Why is this? There are many things that might go wrong; my position here as a Diamond Setter is to enlighten you and succeed.

 That is just why it took me 9 YEARS to learn my craft. Have fun!

Do hardware stores sell jewellery equipment? => 12 photos

  I was walking through our local hardware store and captured 12 pieces of equipment that could be used on our benches. I always keep my iPhone with me just in case something appeals to me. WOW, was this opportunity fruitful?

As we live in a bilingual country, Canada. The packaging is printed in two languages, French & English. Plus, we also use the metric system where possible.

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 These brushes could be used extensively in sweeping away any precious & now expensive metals from your benches. 

  This brush came with plastic gloves, which could be used liberally. This is when using your bench grinder to prevent metal shards from getting into your fingers.

  In case you keep brushes for gold and another for silver, then these brushes will be great when cleaning the polishing hoods of those machines.

 I once worked for a manufacturer who had a polisher who demanded that he have 'double brushes' and 'cloth wheels', as well. He didn't want to contaminate one metal with the other.

 I have one pair of these pliers at my bench; these prices were less expensive than what I paid for.

 Instead of cutting the jaws of the pliers as I've doing, these pliers came with the serrated jaws.

 What is this? Here are two instruments in one package, still at a very reasonable price.

How often would you use 'binding wire' in your assembly work?

 Hello watchmakers et al! Here are screwdrivers to suit your needs.

 Let's just say that you drop something under your bench, and the item is somewhere behind. You can now locate it with the help of this little mirror. Great idea?

 Not sure if these wire brushes are good for 'us', but sometimes using them just once makes it worth the investment.

 Wire brushes are great for cleaning your large tooth files. These are also great for cleaning wax from the teeth of your 'wax files'. 

 I saw this small hammer, and I would buy it just because of its relatively small size.

 Just having some of these items in your possession makes your inventory so essential. How can you set stones or make your jewellery, if you don't have the correct tools?

 In closing on this essay, just make a trip to your local hardware store and see what they have. The variety will amaze you, as it did with me. (any comments?)

Which bur will you use "HSS", or "156c" ? => 18 photos

  "HSS" bur is another correct name for "High Speed Steel".

 The letter 'C' in "156C" refers to the softer Carbide steel. I've mentioned this reference name a few times in previous essays.  

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  These '156C burs' are also named 'bearing cutters'. In which the angles of the cutting edges are 45degrees instead of the regular 90degrees.

  Not like the "HSS" burs, can these be repaired if they get worn down? The teeth of the "156C" are in close proximity to each other, which does not allow any opportunity to be repaired.

 These burs, under 'normal situations', will last for months. They can be repaired by resharpening the teeth on a regular basis.

There are an estimated 45 burs to a 'full set'. This is for preparing claws of various sizes of gemstones. The sizes of burs start at 0.03 mm and go up to 10.00 mm (or larger)!

 Here in this photo are two burs of two pavilion depths, each of which has multiple uses. 

 Hence the difference in proportions. The thin bur is used just for 'bearing cutting', the thicker bur prepares the Pavilion Facet.

 In this remarkable upclose photo, you can see the extreme edges of the teeth, which are getting 'rounded' by constant metal cutting. I use a 'Separating Disk'  to cut into the teeth, one at a time.

  As these teeth look the same, I will use a 'dark, marking pen' this will distinguish one tooth from the other.

 The cutting disk will recut each of the teeth. This process will rejuvenate the longevity of the bur.

As each bur tooth is being reshaped, it is reclaiming the 'cutting life' of this bur.

  Here is a wide assortment of 156C burs of 'medium-sized' burs. As many of these burs are showing signs of wear, they cannot be repaired. The reason why is that the teeth are too close to each other. The only solution is to discard the bur, plus the teeth are not as deep as the HSS bur, 'goodbye'.

 The price of these 156C burs is not as expensiveas the HSS burs, trust me!

 These burs should be immediately discarded if and when the teeth get badly worn and become useless.

 The only minor problem is that after every tooth repair, the size of the HSS diminishes slightly.

 Examine the width of the teeth from the large size bur to the smaller bur.

 I KEEP ALL OF THE 'HSS' BURS IN THEIR SEPARATE DISPLAY BOXES. I have 4 boxes for my (expensive) burs, each box determines where these different sizes will be kept.

 These are the boxes of 156C burs for my inventory. I keep them from touching each other and maintain the sizes in these plastic boxes.

  This HSS bur is a good candidate for reclaiming, asap. Every tooth has become 'rounded' and can no longer cut metal.

 From this 156C bur to the above HSS bur, you can now see the difference in both the tooth depth and size.