Round stone setting techniques - REVIEW - 15 photos

 This essay is a review of the very basic 4-claw setting techniques that every jeweller or stone-setter should know. Keep the ring in the exact center of the ring clamp. If not, there will a great tendency to setting the diamond crooked.

 To keep the 'side stones' held in place, I used a Flat graver of #40 width to create 4 pieces of metal to set each Blue Sapphire.

  This is the epitome of a correctly set diamond. I examine where the 'Culet' is placed, this is so important.

  I never use any other burs in preparing for the stone setting. These are my "High Speed Steel" burs that have a 90degree angle, this has the same angle that as of a diamond.

   The point of the Culet is in the center of the 4-claw head. NICE?

  Under closer scrutiny, I see that the center stone is (ever so slightly) crooked. How did this occur? The bearings, or grooves were not correctly cut into the claws. One bearing was left higher than the others, this was culminating in a crooked stone.

 I'd be somewhat worried with the 'exposure and the height' of this delicate stone. In this regard, I would lower the 'stone-basket' substantially.

 There isn't enough claw-metal holding the expensive diamond.

  The most important feature in 'round stone' setting, is keeping the diamond Culet in between the claws. There is now ample amount of metal covering the Girdle of the stone.

 All center stones should be set lower into the claws. The remaining height is where the tips of the claws are then used to hold the stone.

 This is the acceptable depth that all center stones should be set at. The remaining metal should be cut down a further 50% to sit between the "Table Facet" and the Girdle. 

 Keep the 4-claws in a 'square' configuration, that is the claws should have 'equal distance' between each other.

 This stone is dangerously set too high in the "4-claw basket". I'd remove it and lower the stone down as if the stone got moved, just say "Good-Bye", to the diamond. 

The Culet MUST BE LOWERED FURTHER INTO THE 4-CLAW HEAD. Simple as that! Upon closer examination, there isn't enough claw-metal holding the stone.

  In this photo you can see the new bearings in the claws for the center stone. If the Girdle of the stone is wide, the solution is to use a bud-shaped bur and cut a little extra bearing inside where the seat has been prepared. You are theoretically customizing the claw setting.

 From a series of photographs, I've detailed many techniques of setting round stones.

"Weights & Measurements". Updated information for you - 3 photos.

  Instead of copying every word and numbers, then making mistakes, I did the next best thing and took a photo of my computer screen. I 'borrowed' photo's from "International Gem Society", namely "IGS". 

These weights & items were something that should not be overlooked in my ongoing blog.

   Here is another conversion of weights "borrowed" from another source.

Do you know your birthstones? Here is the factual list of stones to the months.

 In my travels or via the internet, I'm so grateful to these company owners for the labour that they put in with making these charts. 

Princess stone settings - REVIEW - 29 photos

Here are two Princess-Cut stones, but under closer examination the corners have been gently removed. The reason is for safety during the setting as some setters prefer to have them removed in case the stones get damaged.

  In this photo are the "V" shaped corners that soon will made ready for gemstone setting.

 These claws have not been properly finished. You can see that there are many errors from the setting processes, the setter avoided any repair work that was desperately needed. The work was to straighten the crooked stone and repair the claw on the left which has piece of metal missing. 

 I ALWAYS "Bright-Cut" the inside corners of the V-shaped claw, why is this? I don't want big pieces of metal holding the delicate stone.

  It is essential to clear the inside of the 4 claws, I use a elongated bur for this process, I use a Bud-shaped bur but NOT A ROUND BUR. I start at the top and clear all the way down to its base.

 In case the Pavilion of the stone touches the basket, all of the sharp corners of the setting must be cleared of any extra metal.

I'm using a Bud-shaped bur of a wide cut just to create an angle that will match the angle to the Pavilion. This is a very, very important process, there are no short-cuts allowed.

 Be mindful of the width (thickness) of the Princess-Cut stone. Please remember that on every stone the Girdles have been Faceted (polished) and this must be recognized in your cutting of the bearings.

 Before any stone setting, please have your ring pre-polished, this is again so important.

 All of the four claws must be symmetrical and not out of alignment.

 Here is a completed ring setting with the four claws nicely positioned.

   These claws now must have a series of bearings that will hold and secure the Girdle and the corners. These indentations must complement the angles of the stone at all times.

 Place your stone in the ring and check for any unwanted spaces or rocking, if so take the stone out and redo the cutting again.

 I use a pair of pliers and bring in the claws, never corner to corner. This will put much stress on the stone and breakage will occur.

 The jaws of the pliers should be against the sides of the V shaped sections of the claw. Its the sides of the claws that are securing the stone, never the corners of the V.

 In this photo you can see the completed securing of the four claw-points.

 With your Triangular file of #4 grit file the sides of the claws. I use an Emery (Medium grit) disk to keep the claw heights the same on all of the claw tips.

 This photo shows the inside of the V claw before anything has been done to it.

 REVIEW: I use a large round bur to clean the corner just where the point of the stone will permanently rest.

 This is a side-view of the stone being set, but there are many errors occurring here. The tops of the claws are too high and the stone is crooked.

  In my estimation, the ring is not usable and should be scrapped, why? The sides of the claws are totally beyond repair.

 The tips of the claws is now ready to be cleaned and having the claws nicely trimmed.

 I'd give this completed ring a '9.5 out of 10'. The V claws are only 90 % well shaped.

  Now compare these two rings; acceptable to <mediocre.

     This ring is 100% PERFECT.

 On my "Scale of Difficulty" this Princess-Cut Setting rates '25 out of 10'.  

Which gemstones CANNOT be put into an "ultra-sonic" cleaner? - 3 photos.

 First of all just what is an "Ultra-Sonic Cleaner"? It is an apparatus that emits sound waves through a liquid medium (water).This tankful of water has one or two 'sound emitters' built underneath the tank.

 The sound vibrates at a constant level of 40,000 cycles PER SECOND, which is above the level of normal hearing.

 This high level of sound being emitted, vibrates the crystalline structure of that stone and in turn literally shakes (vibrates) any dirt off of the stone, or the metal. This is basically the simple process, now which stones cannot be immersed into the 'cavitation' - shaking process?
 

 My preference is to 'suspend' the jewellery item, but to clean any loose gemstones these can be placed into jar of "Methyl Hydrate" aka Alcohol.

 You can see the two 'sound speakers' that are working in tandem underneath the tank.

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   Here is the list of 10 stones that must never be used.

1) PEARLS: As these are organic items, please refrain from immersing them into this cleaning process. The 'thin skin' of the pearl will be ruined within seconds. Mohs Scale  is at 2.5.

2) OPALS: These are very delicate stones  Mohs scale @ 5 - 6.5

3) AMBER: Amber is basically a sap that is found in trees. Mohs scale @ 2 - 2.5

4) TURQUOISE: The stones will loose their colours. Mohs Scale 5-6.

5) ONYX: Some of these stones are colour dyed Mohs Scale  6.5 - 7.

6) AQUAMARINE: These are soft @ 5 - 8 on the Mohs Scale.

7) EMERALD: Don't put these stones into cavitation, or the stone will shatter. 

Mohs @ 6.5.

8) LAPIS LAZULI: Very soft at 5-6 on the Mohs Scale. Don't use this stone.

9) CORAL: Don't even think of cleaning this stone. Mohs Scale @  3-4.

10) 'FRACTURE FILLED' DIAMONDS: Many diamonds have inclusions and for appearances the inclusions are filled to camouflage the fractured crystalline veins.

  What gemstones may be placed in the ultrasonic machine? There are two stones they are RUBY & SAPPHIRE, why only two? These belong to the "Corundum" family of stones.

Corundum are a very strong crystal which are on the 8-9 Mohs Scale of Hardness.

 Hoping that this essay has been much help to you. Regards, eh! Gerry Lewy.

Your new Belt Buckles with gemstones? - 29 photos

 Belt buckles are a fashion statement and as a clothing accessory. This essay will show that this commodity can be also a jewellery item as well.

 All it takes is being inventive and  thinking totally 'out of the box'.

  For the horse loving folks here is an added feature for your buckle.

 These 'dots' that I used with my marking pen, could have diamonds set into the silver or gold. 

 This is the front of the horses' face set with gemstones in the mouth-guard. You could put gemstones in the eye, nose and ear.

 

 For the casino players here is something different for you.

 I placed little but sturdy claws around the gemstone (not shown). Always "think out of the box" in creating newer ideas.

   Do you love horses? Here is a 'galloping horse' in full stride.

 I'll bet you'll like this casino gemstone laden disk? 

 While at your casino you could 'WOW' them with this gem-studded belt buckle. 

  These photos speak for themselves and are 'self-explanatory'.

 For those who are casino enthusiasts, here is my "Guinness World Record" you could wear on the belt buckle.

   A large Cubic Zirconia can be held on to the buckle with powerful and strong claws.

   Let these folks deny that this (Bezel-Set) Princess-Cut stone isn't real?

  Nice to have this Dice soldered on to your buckle, gemstones could be set in the 5 holes.

 Do you like to play golf? How about a great buckle to wear on the grounds. Another idea is to put white stones in all of the holes. WOW, eh?

  Two more and final suggestions is putting synthetic stones around the lucky '7' and '8'.

  You can copy any, or all of my ideas, I don't charge for these ideas. If you do want to use them please let me know via email => gerrylewy18@gmail.com