Round stone setting techniques - REVIEW - 15 photos

 This essay is a review of the very basic 4-claw setting techniques that every jeweller or stone-setter should know. Keep the ring in the exact center of the ring clamp. If not, there will a great tendency to setting the diamond crooked.

 To keep the 'side stones' held in place, I used a Flat graver of #40 width to create 4 pieces of metal to set each Blue Sapphire.

  This is the epitome of a correctly set diamond. I examine where the 'Culet' is placed, this is so important.

  I never use any other burs in preparing for the stone setting. These are my "High Speed Steel" burs that have a 90degree angle, this has the same angle that as of a diamond.

   The point of the Culet is in the center of the 4-claw head. NICE?

  Under closer scrutiny, I see that the center stone is (ever so slightly) crooked. How did this occur? The bearings, or grooves were not correctly cut into the claws. One bearing was left higher than the others, this was culminating in a crooked stone.

 I'd be somewhat worried with the 'exposure and the height' of this delicate stone. In this regard, I would lower the 'stone-basket' substantially.

 There isn't enough claw-metal holding the expensive diamond.

  The most important feature in 'round stone' setting, is keeping the diamond Culet in between the claws. There is now ample amount of metal covering the Girdle of the stone.

 All center stones should be set lower into the claws. The remaining height is where the tips of the claws are then used to hold the stone.

 This is the acceptable depth that all center stones should be set at. The remaining metal should be cut down a further 50% to sit between the "Table Facet" and the Girdle. 

 Keep the 4-claws in a 'square' configuration, that is the claws should have 'equal distance' between each other.

 This stone is dangerously set too high in the "4-claw basket". I'd remove it and lower the stone down as if the stone got moved, just say "Good-Bye", to the diamond. 

The Culet MUST BE LOWERED FURTHER INTO THE 4-CLAW HEAD. Simple as that! Upon closer examination, there isn't enough claw-metal holding the stone.

  In this photo you can see the new bearings in the claws for the center stone. If the Girdle of the stone is wide, the solution is to use a bud-shaped bur and cut a little extra bearing inside where the seat has been prepared. You are theoretically customizing the claw setting.

 From a series of photographs, I've detailed many techniques of setting round stones.