Best Bezels - REVIEW - 32 photos

 This photo shows the Reciprocating Hammer hitting the bezel, but the 'contact' is using the edge of the hammer tip. The metal is literally being moved towards the stone.

 The lower 'double-photo' shows the three Princess-Cut stone pendant. This one photo is not for the 'faint of heart', as I would register this technique at a definite 15 out of 10 on the "Scale of Difficulty".

  This tube bezel does look like a tube, but these bezels should retain their thin-like appearance. The lower photo shown has many bezels with thin and thick-looking bezels. I prefer the thin appearance.

  This insanely expensive Emerald took me about 3 hours in labour. I had to be 100% aware of the facet edges that were touching the underneath bezel frame. The thought of breakage NEVER ENTERED MY MIND.

 As you can see the bezel was given to me in pieces and then Laser-soldered together.

By the way, I had the opportunity to Bright-cut the frame using my highly polished Onglette gravers, as shown.

 The Flat gravers were not used as the side edge of the Flat graver could cut against the Emerald facets. I never asked my client how much the stone cost. But afterwards, I learned that the cost was well into '5 digit' numbers.

 I use my "High-Speed Steel" undercutting burs as they create the bearings that make a 'seat' inside the Tube bezel. These burs are created at 90degree angles.

  The "156C" bur is of no use to me as the teeth are too close together and just don't cut a thick rim into the metal.

With my 150x power microscope, you can see the bezel as it is sitting against and over the stone.

  My hammer is a lightweight tool that is not heavy for long periods of hitting.

 The face of this hammer must be well-cared for as if there are any defects on the face they will be easily transferred to the gold or silver. This results in defects that can't be easily removed.

 This Oval Stone bezel has a Culet that is sometimes protruding through the base of the bezel. When I'm hammering, I don't wish to have the point of the stone make any contact with the steel mandrel.

 If there is any contact, the stone will get easily broken. That is why all of the 'setting mandrels' have that groove carved out.

  On the inside of any & every Bezel will have a shiny surface. That shiny surface is named "Bright-Cutting". I never overlook this technique during the final stages of Bezel Setting, neither should you.

   Here is the side-view of the Bezel-setting as it is holding the stone TIGHT.

    Here are multiple views showing more Bezel set items.

 Here is my favourite tool is the Onglette graver #2 'ready for action'.

 This is the 'before and after' views of the essential cutting blade. I've seen some videos showing a massive steel blade, what is the purpose of such a thick blade? 

 To execute such a shiny surface, the Onglette blade must be highly polished using Polishing Paper of #800 grit.

 I put a layer of 'soft pencil graphite' into the pores of the paper, why? This paper is now softer and is now rated at about #1,200 grit (without buying more papers).

  The "modified & enhanced" graver can & will cut a cleaner swath all around the inner Bezel. DON'T USE A FLAT GRAVER, as there will be faceting against the metal.

  I'm now showing my "HSS" bur along with the Oval Ruby stone. Don't forget to pre-polish all the many areas of the ring before setting of this delicate stone.

 

 This next photo shows the finished ring, all that is needed is a light Rouge polishing.

 On my Scale of Difficulty, this project rates a '7.5 out 10'.