Princess stone settings - REVIEW - 29 photos

Here are two Princess-Cut stones, but under closer examination the corners have been gently removed. The reason is for safety during the setting as some setters prefer to have them removed in case the stones get damaged.

  In this photo are the "V" shaped corners that soon will made ready for gemstone setting.

 These claws have not been properly finished. You can see that there are many errors from the setting processes, the setter avoided any repair work that was desperately needed. The work was to straighten the crooked stone and repair the claw on the left which has piece of metal missing. 

 I ALWAYS "Bright-Cut" the inside corners of the V-shaped claw, why is this? I don't want big pieces of metal holding the delicate stone.

  It is essential to clear the inside of the 4 claws, I use a elongated bur for this process, I use a Bud-shaped bur but NOT A ROUND BUR. I start at the top and clear all the way down to its base.

 In case the Pavilion of the stone touches the basket, all of the sharp corners of the setting must be cleared of any extra metal.

I'm using a Bud-shaped bur of a wide cut just to create an angle that will match the angle to the Pavilion. This is a very, very important process, there are no short-cuts allowed.

 Be mindful of the width (thickness) of the Princess-Cut stone. Please remember that on every stone the Girdles have been Faceted (polished) and this must be recognized in your cutting of the bearings.

 Before any stone setting, please have your ring pre-polished, this is again so important.

 All of the four claws must be symmetrical and not out of alignment.

 Here is a completed ring setting with the four claws nicely positioned.

   These claws now must have a series of bearings that will hold and secure the Girdle and the corners. These indentations must complement the angles of the stone at all times.

 Place your stone in the ring and check for any unwanted spaces or rocking, if so take the stone out and redo the cutting again.

 I use a pair of pliers and bring in the claws, never corner to corner. This will put much stress on the stone and breakage will occur.

 The jaws of the pliers should be against the sides of the V shaped sections of the claw. Its the sides of the claws that are securing the stone, never the corners of the V.

 In this photo you can see the completed securing of the four claw-points.

 With your Triangular file of #4 grit file the sides of the claws. I use an Emery (Medium grit) disk to keep the claw heights the same on all of the claw tips.

 This photo shows the inside of the V claw before anything has been done to it.

 REVIEW: I use a large round bur to clean the corner just where the point of the stone will permanently rest.

 This is a side-view of the stone being set, but there are many errors occurring here. The tops of the claws are too high and the stone is crooked.

  In my estimation, the ring is not usable and should be scrapped, why? The sides of the claws are totally beyond repair.

 The tips of the claws is now ready to be cleaned and having the claws nicely trimmed.

 I'd give this completed ring a '9.5 out of 10'. The V claws are only 90 % well shaped.

  Now compare these two rings; acceptable to <mediocre.

     This ring is 100% PERFECT.

 On my "Scale of Difficulty" this Princess-Cut Setting rates '25 out of 10'.  

Which gemstones CANNOT be put into an "ultra-sonic" cleaner? - 3 photos.

 First of all just what is an "Ultra-Sonic Cleaner"? It is an apparatus that emits sound waves through a liquid medium (water).This tankful of water has one or two 'sound emitters' built underneath the tank.

 The sound vibrates at a constant level of 40,000 cycles PER SECOND, which is above the level of normal hearing.

 This high level of sound being emitted, vibrates the crystalline structure of that stone and in turn literally shakes (vibrates) any dirt off of the stone, or the metal. This is basically the simple process, now which stones cannot be immersed into the 'cavitation' - shaking process?
 

 My preference is to 'suspend' the jewellery item, but to clean any loose gemstones these can be placed into jar of "Methyl Hydrate" aka Alcohol.

 You can see the two 'sound speakers' that are working in tandem underneath the tank.

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   Here is the list of 10 stones that must never be used.

1) PEARLS: As these are organic items, please refrain from immersing them into this cleaning process. The 'thin skin' of the pearl will be ruined within seconds. Mohs Scale  is at 2.5.

2) OPALS: These are very delicate stones  Mohs scale @ 5 - 6.5

3) AMBER: Amber is basically a sap that is found in trees. Mohs scale @ 2 - 2.5

4) TURQUOISE: The stones will loose their colours. Mohs Scale 5-6.

5) ONYX: Some of these stones are colour dyed Mohs Scale  6.5 - 7.

6) AQUAMARINE: These are soft @ 5 - 8 on the Mohs Scale.

7) EMERALD: Don't put these stones into cavitation, or the stone will shatter. 

Mohs @ 6.5.

8) LAPIS LAZULI: Very soft at 5-6 on the Mohs Scale. Don't use this stone.

9) CORAL: Don't even think of cleaning this stone. Mohs Scale @  3-4.

10) 'FRACTURE FILLED' DIAMONDS: Many diamonds have inclusions and for appearances the inclusions are filled to camouflage the fractured crystalline veins.

  What gemstones may be placed in the ultrasonic machine? There are two stones they are RUBY & SAPPHIRE, why only two? These belong to the "Corundum" family of stones.

Corundum are a very strong crystal which are on the 8-9 Mohs Scale of Hardness.

 Hoping that this essay has been much help to you. Regards, eh! Gerry Lewy.

Your new Belt Buckles with gemstones? - 29 photos

 Belt buckles are a fashion statement and as a clothing accessory. This essay will show that this commodity can be also a jewellery item as well.

 All it takes is being inventive and  thinking totally 'out of the box'.

  For the horse loving folks here is an added feature for your buckle.

 These 'dots' that I used with my marking pen, could have diamonds set into the silver or gold. 

 This is the front of the horses' face set with gemstones in the mouth-guard. You could put gemstones in the eye, nose and ear.

 

 For the casino players here is something different for you.

 I placed little but sturdy claws around the gemstone (not shown). Always "think out of the box" in creating newer ideas.

   Do you love horses? Here is a 'galloping horse' in full stride.

 I'll bet you'll like this casino gemstone laden disk? 

 While at your casino you could 'WOW' them with this gem-studded belt buckle. 

  These photos speak for themselves and are 'self-explanatory'.

 For those who are casino enthusiasts, here is my "Guinness World Record" you could wear on the belt buckle.

   A large Cubic Zirconia can be held on to the buckle with powerful and strong claws.

   Let these folks deny that this (Bezel-Set) Princess-Cut stone isn't real?

  Nice to have this Dice soldered on to your buckle, gemstones could be set in the 5 holes.

 Do you like to play golf? How about a great buckle to wear on the grounds. Another idea is to put white stones in all of the holes. WOW, eh?

  Two more and final suggestions is putting synthetic stones around the lucky '7' and '8'.

  You can copy any, or all of my ideas, I don't charge for these ideas. If you do want to use them please let me know via email => gerrylewy18@gmail.com

What is the 'Mohs Scale' of stone Hardness? - 5 photos

The "Mohs Scale of Hardness" is the corner-stone in describing the strengths of gemstones, including the Diamond. This essay maybe copied for your own information, these were 'saved' from the internet and not from private sources. 

Angled "Diamond Setting" pattern on a wedding band - REVIEW - 7 photos

 During my apprenticeship, one of my earliest recollections was being asked to cut a '3-stone pattern' into a wedding band.

 I learned from 'doing it', not by books or videos. In my beginning years, we never had videos or the internet these difficult techniques were then entrenched into my mind. 

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 The first step is to drill 3 holes into the wedding band at an angle of 30 degrees. This is the very first step in creating this pattern. For your information the 'Difficulty Level' in creating this pattern is about 8.5 out of 10.

 I used a 'marking pen' to draw the many lines on the surface. This was to guide me and my gravers, even today I'd use this method acting as a "GPS" to the metal. 

 In between the three holes, I'd cut a little "0+0 " pattern. This pattern will be then creating the new 'pseudo-beads'. 

 At the end of the 3 new holes, I'll use my Onglette graver #1 to create 3 beads in the pattern seen in this photo. This is not regularly the 4 beads that are normally seen everywhere in Pave setting.

 When the first cutting line is started, I will and must recut these lines DEEPER. These lines are my way of initializing the first steps for Bright-Cutting, starting in a few moments.

 The Onglette graver #2 cuts are the next step in preparing this new design. The graver must not leaning on its side during the cutting process.

 To make this clearer, this cutting has one purpose and that is to cut a pattern as seen in the next photo.

 The "+" pattern in between the holes that was shown previously, actually gave way in creating both 3 and 4 beads respectively.

 I decided to Milgrain the edges of the pattern, why was this? The wearer can then see the angles and the cutting more clearly.

 If you wish to use your Flat graver #40 (width) allowing more emphasis on the cutting will be acceptable. But the outside line shouldn't be Bright-Cut with your Highly-Polished Onglette graver nor use your Flat graver. It should be used only as a line of shaping.

 When the stones have been set, please use your Bead-Burnisher and 'round off' the tips of each new bead.

 These two blades are showing the 'before & after' from the Bench-Grinder shaping processes. You can see how detailed the point of the graver that has been shaped on the rotating grinding wheel.

  My gravers have been shaped not as seen in other videos or photographs from other instructors. This 'graver shaping' was taught to me only 65 YEARS AGO and has served me well during my profession at the bench.

"Square-configuration" on a 4-claw setting - REVIEW - 3 photos

 Brad Simon wrote this "BENCH" magazine essay many years ago & I kept this article in my archives. It's time (again) to explore this setting technique of 'placing the claws on the stone'. The claws MUST NEVER BE RESTING ON THE FACET EDGES.

   My claws would never be situated on the facet edges, as seen in this 'roughly drawn' diagram.