Many errors seen in jewellery - 3 photos

Here is a troubling Emerald ring, why am I anxious to discuss this expensive Emerald setting? Where is the "V" claw on the Pear-shaped point?

 I would never allow anyone to wear this ring with no "V" claw protection". Even now I can see that 'the point' of the stone is damaged and as well broken off.

 The four claws have little symmetry to the finishing, as the front of the 4-claws has a sharp front edge.

 This is a 'poor finishing', why am I writing this? The front of each claw will 100% catch clothing. 

 I took a quick photo of a ladies' diamond pendant. I saw problems and asked, "where did you buy this diamond pendant?" "Oh, it belonged to my Mother and I wear it all the time", (I then kept my comments to myself).

 

 Just where is the "V" claw to protect the diamond? There wasn't any, plus the four very small claws are giving little ongoing protection in case the Pear-Shape diamond gets loose and falls away.

 I'm not criticizing these designs, but preventive measures and safety were not on the manufacturers "to-do" list.

ROUND DIAMOND DESIGN (pendant) - 1 photo

 This is a fantastic looking pendant for this gold chain. There are no mixing of curves in the design to any square pattern.

 The curves in the designing is just 'a wonderful exercise'. There is a full blending of texture and symmetry. 

 

Fancy-Cut stones - 5 photos

 In doing my 'mall walking for exercising' a few days ago, I saw a few photos on display kiosks that need a notes.

 As a Diamond Setter for the past 6 decades, I have seen some beautiful gemstone setting and here are some of them.

 On the point of the Triangular stones there are "V" claws. These are used for security and above all protection if the stone gets damaged. What I do is to "Bright-Cut" the inside edge of the "V-shaped" claw.

 

There are Triangular, small round and Emerald-cut stones, I had to take a few photos to share with you. 

 The "End-Bezel Setting" for the Emerald-Cut stone is filed and trimmed, as there shouldn't be any thick metal bars in holding the stone.

 The centre stone is set a higher-elevation than the two shoulder stones.

  Polishing of the Triangular-stone claws is required before the centre stone is set. I would even place this exquisite ring into a "Magnetic-Tumbler" as it's imperative that all claws be cleaned prior to setting.

 Once the stones are set, there isn't any chance to polish the claws again.

Jewellery mall posters - 3 photos

 Here is an array of beautiful "Pieces of Art" ornaments for your special lady. I'm at a loss for words to describe these beautiful creations, these photos speak thousands of words.

"My Diamond Setting bench" - 5 photos

 Many years ago my 'Diamond Setting Bench' was one of the featured benches in this 'Bench Book'.

  This is my current (2023-24) setting bench, I like to say "This is where my creations are born". 

  This is the photo of my bench that was displayed in the "The Jewellers Bench Book".

 

 

Post-Setting photos - 5 photos

 I relish in showing how uniform the mini-claw setting can be. It shows the correct way claws should placed against and over the girdle of the precious stone or diamond. 

 In these photos, 'polishing of the metal' is imperative and should not be postponed until after the stone setting. DO THE PRE-POLISHING NOW!

  The claws in this photo were completed in such a manner that there is not one claw out of alignment. Just a most delightful diamond-setting process.

 You see how nicely the Tube setting has been shaped, all you see is a faint line of metal. There isn't any thick bezel holding the stone in place.

 Here are an assortment of sizes of diamonds. This is Pave' setting at its best. There was no CAD involved in this creation. (CAD is another way of writing "Computer Aided Designing").

 

Baguette Setting (no diagrams) using 31 photos.

  In this extensive tutorial essay, I will 'attempt to explain' in the fullest detail possible how to set Tapered (or) Straight baguettes into a "End Bezel" ring.

The "Level of Difficulty is about 18, on the 10 Scale"

 In my previous essay, there were only diagrams explaining this very detailed difficult process. Thankfully, I found 31 photos of this same process, but NOT with any drawings.

 This setting process is the same for either a straight or tapered baguettes, the only difference is the shape of the ends of the stone.

 Make sure that the "Triangular file, #4 grit" filing across the end of the bezel walls is clean and no residual metal is remaining. (The Blue Sapphire ring shows this error) DO THIS CLEANING NOW!

 Into the two corners of the bar, at the end of the end-bezel there must be two little holes. These two holes will be eventually where the corners of the stone will sit, or rest.

 The only bur that is used here will be a round bur of #004, or a #005 in width.

 Using a bud-shaped bur, remove all of the residual pieces of metal that remains inside of the setting area.

 Select a grouping of stones for this exercise, the stones should be longer than the opening of the bezel. As this is so important as the stone MUST be resting INTO the end-bezel, not against it.

 The corner bezel points can be formed by a round bur that is slightly larger than the corner of the stone.

 Now let's get a bud-shaped bur and have that bud-bur create a partial-angle against the two parallel sides of the opening. This is where some problems might happen, read and read again my instructions.

 Clean out all areas of the inner walls. There must not be any metal remaining inside the bezel frame.

  In this photo is a sampling of my bud-bur collection.

  Hold your bud-bur at a 45degree angle that is the same angle as of your baguette pavilion.

  I suggest that the first angled cutting be as a guide in your Pavilion carving.

     Holding your bur at the correct angle as being shown here.

  I use my "Magnetic-Tumbler" often, as I want all of the metal dust to be removed prior to any stone setting. 

 

  Once that you are confidant to continue further, redrill those two holes deeper and INTO the base of the end-bezel. This is where the 'corners of the stone' will be resting for the 'tightening process'.

 I drilled an 'extra' hole as shown, why here? I don't want any 'slipping' of the rotating round bur to occur. This WILL frequently happen, and then you can 'join' the three holes together. DO NOT EXTEND THE NEW CHANNEL TO THE END OF THE BEZEL.

  You can now see that the three holes are now 'joined' together.

 At this moment, attempt to place the stone into it's 'new home'.

  Don't let your drilled hole go out of the end-bezel wall as shown here. WE ARE NOW READY TO SET THE STONE.

  Just as a review: CLEAN OUT THE FOUR CORNERS, CARVE OUT THE SIDES OF THE BEZEL, PREPARE A  SEAT FOR THE ENDS OF THE BAGUETTE.

 If you slipped during any round or bud bur carving, remove those extra marks with a Triangular #4 cut file prior to any stone setting. If you need to 'pre-polish' this bezel, PLEASE DO IT NOW, you can also use a Pumice Wheel of a "Medium" grit.

 The preparation of metal carving has now been completed, we're ready for the tightening and setting.

 DON'T USE HAND-TIGHTENING, YOU WON'T HAVE THE STRENGTH in your hand to do this.

  

 I prefer to use my Reciprocating Hammer to tighten the two end-bezels, but use a 'gentle level' of hammering.

 Why do I use my steel mandrel (as seen in my photos)? This is because I want a sturdier base for the ring, leather tipped wooden clamp only absorbs and renders the hitting power nearly useless.

 I start the hammering in the centre of the bezel and then tighten the remaining spots. Your hammer-anvil must never touch the front of the 'end-bezel' wall near the stone.

  I normally rotate the hammer-anvil to get a 'wider contact' to the end-bezel frame.

 You must hammer metal FLAT but not squeezing the metal down flat.

  You must try and avoid setting the stone on an angle (as shown here).

 When the 'securing' has been successful, just move the hitting anvil all along the surface. The bezel metal must remain FLAT.

 This Amethyst (soft stone) setting is now completed and all that remains is to use the 'split-lap' in polishing all of the necessary areas. Once that you have removed all of the metal dust particles then you can solder the centre stone setting.

 File clean and polish where needed. Your Baguette Setting is now 'thankfully' finished.