I've been displaying on many occasions "how and why" the hammering sequence is so very important.
Many of these instructions are self-explanatory, but I will endeavour to guide you along this process of stone setting.
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In the art form of Bezel Setting, there is a main problem, and if not corrected immediately can lead to irreparable damage.
Just suppose that the stone is correctly set with the 'Table Facet' sitting flat, but the stone is sitting twisted. How would you prevent this from occurring?
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1) Place the stone Table facet side, sitting in the bezel and with your hammer, initiate the 'gentle' hitting on the bezel wall at the sequence numbering #1 as shown in the first diagram.
2) The next 'hit' will be in the opposing corner of #2, then following is #3, with #4 (in the middle of the bezel frame) and #5 and lastly #6. This will prevent any sort of twisting of the gemstone.
3) With this completed exactly as described, there is no chance that this stone will tilt.
The Oval stone is now held in place securely, with no problems.
4) With more very gentle tapping just to smooth the bezel, it is to finish off the bezel setting.
I prefer to give details with photos or diagrams; a written text is not always advisable.
These two lines are coloured to distinguish one cutting section of the claw from the other.
--------- This line is for the bud bur to guide the "High Speed Steel" for the claw cutting.
""""""This line is where the "High Speed Steel" bur will cut an angle for the Pavilion facet.
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