HSS 'setting burs' =>8 drawings

 These drawings were not professionally drawn, but the technique is important.

 1) When you are dealing with a very 'thick' Girdle, gently use a round bur the same size as the wide Girdle.

2) DO NOT ALLOW THE CULET TO PROTRUDE THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE RING.

  Exactly where the teeth of the bur are cutting will determine where the stone will be set. This diagram should greatly assist you further.

  These angles will lead to a correct placement of the metal.

 The rotating bur is creating a groove in the metal; this will be a seat for the stone. BUT NEVER HOLD THE BUR AT THIS SEVERE ANGLE.

 This is my "Rule of Thirds" that I learned, circa 1968.

Rule #1: The claw should have metal 1/3 above the stone.

Rule #2: The metal must be 1/3 back from the front of the claw.

Rule #3: There should be 1/3 of the metal to give claw support.

 

 1) The cutting angle must adhere to the angle of the Pavilion.

2) Only cut exactly where the Pavilion Facet is to be resting.

3) There is no need to have your bur cut to the bottom of the claw.

 Where the teeth of the rotating bur are situated will determine how deeply your stone will be sitting.