How to use METRIC in weighing 'metals & stones' ? (21 photos).

  This is the most accurate weight of synthetic stones that is in my collection of tools. In fact, my Diamond Dealer would prefer this digital weight as its the most efficient scale that he would accept & use.

 Does this "Pear-Shaped, Genuine Emerald" weigh 5.25 carats, 36.00 grams or  suggested weight of pennyweights or even 9.76 ounces? In which category would you buy this stone at?

  Do you see the ongoing problems of not unifying the measured weights of stones & metals? (I know for a fact that this complete finished Emerald necklace weighed in at 128.0 grams). 

The METRIC system is much easier and is used (almost) everywhere.

  Every piece of metal including the chain and the weights of stones were gauged & were weighed in two categories, "grams & carats".

 On this digital scale, the measurements of this silver ring were taken on the "ounces" display.

 Lets pick a unit of measurement, which one would you use? This is so very confusing to say the least. Can't we all stick to one unit to measure our weights of stones and metal? The simple & worldwide "METRIC System" is the 'best' route to take.

 One supplier could use "DWT" (pennyweights) and the other used Kilograms, or maybe Ounces. To make things worse, there are daily or hourly metal changes of costs for each category. Just a mind-boggling exercise with ongoing problems. 

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This photo-display is using "dwt" as in 'pennyweights'.

 All of the jewellers in Canada & Europe have now gone METRIC. Why is there such a difference of units of measuring? It can get so dangerous and very $$$ confusing.

   Here are two true stories about this measuring problem. 

1) The first story was about a European-crafted space mechanism. It was made and finished in Europe and then shipped to America for "NASA". Nothing seemed to fit and after careful examinations it was that Europe were using METRIC and America didn't. Millimeters and Inches just don't work well together.

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2) Another true story was that at a Canadian fueling-truck driver misjudged the weight of 'pounds to kilograms of fuel'. The difference was literally 1/2 the amount of fuel needed, the end result was that the jet plane just ran out of available fuel at 40,000 feet and glided down with no power, into Gimli, Manitoba, CANADA.

 This was at the beginning of the Canadian change-over from "Pounds to Kilograms" this was circa 1983 A.D. When you go to YouTube or Google, read the story of the famous "Gimli Glider".

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 In America, jewellers still use 'dwt's, ounces and pounds of weight', 'we' use Kilograms, Kilometers and Millimeters. We've accepted the METRIC system decades ago, but my American friends seem to avoided the changeover. Only 3 countries in the world still retain the "IMPERIAL" units of measurements.

  I'm now giving you examples of the weight differences. I'm not suggesting that you make any changes, but please be aware of the inherent problems that might occur.

 I'm using two scales and there was a slight discrepancy with these weights. I have a Diamond Scale which gives me the accurate weight. The larger scale had too many categories to figure out which to use and when.

 This is my preferred 'Digital Diamond Scale' that is very accurate. This particular device is used primarily for Diamonds and other Gemstones.  In this case, I'll use it for an example of weighing this silver mount, this scale is accurate to the 2nd decimal place.

  

 For larger items, I'll use another digital scale, but never for gemstones. It's essential to have these two scales always made available.

 

 Is this photograph the weight is at =>25.80 or is it 25.89 grams<=? You should use a '2 decimal' place scale to prove my point. 

 This weight is in "dwt's" or 'pennyweights'. It seems so unnecessary to use 'dwt' these days, as the need is now so antiquated, I see no reason to use it in our daily buying.

 The same scale weighing the same stone, but with two weights, why is this? Which will I use for measuring? I will immediately go to my gemstone "Diamond Digital Scale" for further 'two decimal place' accuracy. 

 

 Which weight would you buy this synthetic stone at? Would it be 1.0, or 1.1 'grams'? If it were me, I'd just walk away and buy this stone elsewhere.

 For heavier items, I prefer to use a scale that has a capacity of 300 grams, this is far better. You'll notice that all of the numbers shown are in 4 units of measurements.

      Weight differences between the NEW & OLD scales.

 The "old weight" differences are a mind-boggling 15% lower than the actual weight. Thankfully, I still have this hand-held scale that is an guess-estimated at 85 years old.

 This scale once belonged to my Father, (z"l) who had a company that was selling "Industrial Diamonds" in England & Canada, circa 1940 & 1950's.

 

 In preparing this essay, I checked those 'older' weights and found that there was a vast difference of  actual digital weights, as those 'hand-stamped' numbers.      

 There is a wide discrepancy between the 'stamped' and the accurate 'digital' weight.

 Here is another 'proof of errors' in the "Hand-Held" diamond weights, is it "5.0 carats" as it's stamped, or is it 5.15 carats on the digital scale? The difference could be worth hundreds of dollars.

 Accuracy of weights were just basically poor guesswork in those earlier days. 

 Would you as a buyer today, use this ''hand-held" weight scale in todays buying market? Accuracy in those days was just near guesswork of weighing precious stones.

 If you want to weigh these 10 stones, how would you do it and on what scale?

 I suggest using the 'Electronic, Digital Scale' as the best option. These total weights are now measured to the 'second decimal' place.

 'Hand-held' weighing methods are no longer to be deemed accurate. 

This exercise can get very frustrating, agree? But imagine this scenario, if you were an jewellery appraiser, which scale would YOU USE?

  In these two photos, there is 1.0 (or more) gram difference.

  I would gladly use the '2 decimal place' scale, anytime.

 Here is another example of 'house of errors' There is almost 0.20 grams difference. 

 

 

 For just one item I have TWO weight measurements. Which is more accurate?   

"Better to review, than forget" 4-CLAW SETTING - (85+ PHOTOS)

 These many photos have been sitting in my archives for many years. Here they are to be examined again for posterity.

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 This is a Gents ring that could be used for any diamond that is 0.35 <=> 0.75 points or larger. In this setting process, filing with a Triangular file of #4 cut is the main active setting tool. With a follow-up of Pumice wheels of #180 grit.

  Here are a few hand-drawn diagrams with explanations offered (including spelling & grammar mistakes).

       THESE DIAGRAMS AND PHOTOS are self-explanatory.

 I used a FLAT GRAVER to carefully remove any metal shavings from where the rotating High Speed Steel bur cut into the 4-claw setting.

   Please keep the bur-cutting clean, prior to setting of the diamond.

 These diagrams were seen in an American jewellery-trade magazine and proved to be very helpful to the readers.

 

 I use a novel method in setting of any diamond or gemstone, how is that? I WANT EACH CLAW TO LAY FLAT ON EACH OF THE "CROWN FACETS" ON THE GEMSTONE.

 My teacher showed me this method 65 years ago. I'm using a #4 wide of a saw-blade to do the cutting against the claw.

  You can see just where each of the saw-blade cutting is taking place.

 PLEASE AVOID NOT TO EXCEED THE SAW-CUT BEYOND THE "GIRDLE" OF THE STONE. If you do, there will be weakness in the structure of the setting.

 This is my "favourite" claw shaping & cutting bur, make no mistake about the shape or the angle. It is made at a 45 degree angle, some burs come in at 76 degrees but no diamond is shaped at 76 degrees. THOSE ARE NOT THE CORRECT ANGLES.

 

 Here are a few "MOHS" hardness's of materials that setter will come across.

 When the stone is set, remember that all of the 4 claws should be at the same height. The only way to achieve this height, is to either file the tops/tips with your Triangular file #4 grit, or with an Emery wheel with a "Medium, or Fine" grit texture, as being shown.

 Many gemstones have wide girdle, it is best to "show" the every wide area under the claw. With this unevenness, I'll create a 'seat' especially for that diamond. 

 Many of these 'well worn' burs are so badly worn down and in turn won't cut well. In a previous tutorial blog-essay I explained how to reshape them.

 Keep all of your HSS burs in sequential order. If you are spending too much time looking for that one special bur, you'll be wasting your time and "Time is money".

 I (sometimes) use a pair of fine-jaw pliers to push down on the tips of the claws to achieve added security.

 These little areas all need to be 'well polished' prior to the stone setting. Once the stone is set, it's nearly impossible to polish with any cloth wheel large or small. 

 These 4 claws MUST BE EVEN, but not having the Emery Wheel get too close to the stone. DON'T REMOVE TOO MUCH OF THE METAL, this will explained further.

 All of my claw tips are delicately filed with an Emery wheel, if desired. If you use a hand filing instrument, many of the claws could be left uneven.

 The "High Speed Steel" bur come in various sizes. It's better to have a wide selection of sizes as needed than to have a few of the wrong size.

 These claws are too long and need to be reduced in height, immediately!

  This is an up-close photo showing the many sizes of "HSS" burs.

 Here is a photo of a hand-filed aka 'trimmed' claw. Instead of using a 77B Cup bur everywhere, I file each claw as shown on the 'far left corner'.

 All of the claws must be 100% cleaned and exquisitely polished prior to the gemstone setting. Once the gemstone has been set, 'forget the required' polishing process.

 The high "Table Facet" of this stone is a problem for the client, why is this? The stone will be involved with many problems pertaining to damaged facets. I'd refuse to set this stone, without advising the client firsthand.

 For your information, the teeth of this HSS bur are in need of repairing. These teeth are badly worn as the 'cutting and shaping' is greatly reduced.

 Here is a second photo showing where the "Emery Paper" disk is touching the 4 claws. IF THE DISK IS NEAR THE EDGE OF THE CLAWS, (SOMETHING BAD HAPPENS). The disk will bend and the claws will not be shaped evenly.

 If you aren't sure of the height (or depth) of the HSS bur, try this method, use a bud-shaped bur into the desired depth for the stone. This another technique that my teacher taught me 65 YEARS AGO.

If you avoid this method, your 'rotating bur' will be skimming all around the claw. YUK!

Here you are deciding just where your bur will be sitting.

 You can see just where the HSS bur is preparing for the stone to be set. DON'T HAVE THE "PAVILLION CUTS" BE MADE ANY LOWER THAN WHAT IS SHOWN HERE,

 You have just two options in 'finishing' the claw tips-tops. The first is the easier method of making your claws rounded with your "77B", CUP BUR or using your Triangular file.

 This is an assortment of the required tools & burs that are required in setting a 4-claw ring.

 Here is a better view on where the "Girdle & Pavilion Facets" will be nestled against each claw.

 The edge of the HSS bur is nicely preparing for the stone to be set. Already we've decided where the correct depth of the Girdle will be located.

  On each of the sides of the 4-claws will be 'metal shavings' that has been created by the rotating HSS bur, get rid of this 'metal shaping'. BUT HOW?

 DON'T USE A FILE! I use a FLAT #40-graver to remove the metal. If you use a file, these will be rough striations remaining on all of the 4 claws.

 The saw-blade must positioned exactly in the front of the claw, not on the side. Then you will have a good chance to bend that claw.

 Here you can see where that "Claw to Saw blade" is positioned.

 Just a quick 'review' of where the Emery Disk is hitting the claw tips.

 In this photo, again are the 'metal shavings' being seen? Get rid of them prior to setting of your stone.

 The 'prepared bur cutting' is too high, their won't be any metal to be needed to hold the stone in place. You need metal security, metal polishing and general wearing of the ring.

 This ring needs to be cleaned long before any stone goes in.

 

 The "Culet" of the gemstone needs to be positioned in the absolute center of the 4-claws. Use your mini-bud bur to remove any casting excesses as shown in this photo.

 When you initially setting a Square, "Princess-Cut" diamond please do what I was taught 6 decades ago. Use a marking device along the longest shape and draw a line where the long section of the Table.

 To make sure that you have the correct proportions, use your Digital Calipers and place your stone as seen here.

 If you avoid or not being aware of the dimensions, the Square set stone will look WIERD. The Longest angles must be at 90Degrees to the line of the axis of the ring.

  Even on a Square-shaped, "Princess-Cut" stone the Culet MUST BE WELL CENTERED.

 Prior to any setting of any diamond, ALL OF THE CLAWS MUST BE SEPARATED AND NOT JOINED TOGETHER. =>This is is first Cardinal Rule of Diamond Setting. 

 I suggest to set the smaller stones first...then proceed with the larger stones afterwards. The chances of hitting the larger stones will be greatly reduced.

 After casting, there will be numerous problems in regards to 'metal burs' appearing anywhere or everywhere. As I mentioned before, GET RID OF THEM...NOW!

 As seen early in this tutorial-essay use your #40 Flat graver to remove the shards of metal that were created from the rotary action of your bur.

   All areas of ANY RING must be clean of any defects from casting.

Little aberrations from casting still remain and this is not nice to see.

  To review the filing techniques; I honestly approve of Triangular trimming or filing, as seen on the left corner of the 4-claw setting. Cup Burs have a tendency to leave a rim along the outside edge.

  Remove this Diamond and clean these claws immediately.

 Even the 'Pavilion Claws' need to shaped to embrace the Diamond. The claw on the right is great looking, but the claw on the left was shaped with a file. That claw just won't fit against the stone.

 Just another view of how the underneath claw looks prior to setting.

 Much work is needed to 'clean' the inner areas of the setting. Gemstone setting is not on the immediate 'to-do' list yet.

    You know what's next? Any guesses?

Keep your HSS burs well oiled, at all times. Then the metal will be easily removed while it's being prepared for setting.

 

  This stone setting is made too high. The "Table Facet" is above where the claws are being created.