Insanely difficult Diamond Setting projects. (15 photos).

 There are times in our jewellery lives when we are confronted with tasks where "skill & patience" is a forerunner of the nearly impossible jewellery projects.

 To me, these following projects are the highlights of my career of 65+ years. I know that you might have seen these creations many times before on this active blog, I'm just keeping them seen. BTW, I enjoyed every moment while I was creating these "Pieces of Art".

  I'll keep my ongoing comments to a minimum, "my pictures speak for themselves".

 This Bezel setting was an ultimate challenge, namely in it's enormous size and cost. What you are seeing here is what two other gemstone setters avoided in setting this Emerald. My client was thrilled that it was completed without any problems.

Here it is upon completion.

 As seen in a previous blog-essay, this "Miami-Dolphin" award was given to the football league. Sometimes 'we' just never know where our creations end up.

 Each of these large 17 diamonds were 1.05 carats each in size. The gold weight exceeded in 133 grams of 18 karat gold.

   I used my hand to show how large this disk was.

   On the outside row of PINK stones were actually PINK diamonds.

  This project culminated in three weeks of Diamond Setting and decision making with my client.

Sitting at your jewellery bench - POSTURE & Exercise is important - (3 photos).

   We take sitting for granted, from our earliest days of living, we sat in a chair. But as time crept on, we forgot about these 'rules of sitting'.

 One of the most earliest rules that I learned in my apprenticeship was 'how to sit correctly'. My elbow and body must be in a 'relaxed position' for those long hours.

 This tutorial-essay is not a recent discovery on how to sit, but it's a continuation from my earlier learning years, circa 1960's.

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                                   => Rules for your body <=

1) Keep your feet firmly planted on the floor and avoid tucking them under your buttocks. That alone will give you a poor sitting position. (I've seen this on many occasions from the younger students).

2) Get off of your chair periodically and get some exercise aka 'move'. 

3) Give your eyes a chance to look into a distant focal point. Your eyes need a 'chance to relax' from focusing in a close area. Understand this?

4) Keep your elbow on a thick layer of cloth. If not, your "Ulnar" (sp.) nerves that are running through the elbow will 100% get squeezed and damaged. Arthritis will surely get involved in later years and then subsequently into your joints of your thumb & fingers. (I know this first hand.)

 I'm using multiple layers of cloth toweling to facilitate a thick pillow. BTW, the left side of my upper bench is slightly worn away. That is from my shoulder being nestled against it for all of my years of sitting & setting.

 This is exactly where my elbow is resting.

5) To avoid such 'damage', exercise your legs by 'standing or walking', loosen up those muscles every 20-30 minutes. This will avoid any 'pooling of the blood' in your legs.

VERY TRUE STORY!

 (My family doctor was once was on an airplane for 3 hours had the 'feeling' of a blood clot forming. He asked the stewardess to get him to a hospital as soon as possible, upon landing. YES, he did have a 'blood clot , luckily it didn't travel to his heart). 

The name for this major health issue is "Deep Vein Thrombosis" and is caused by long periods of inactivity.

6) Your chair that you are using MUST be well padded and don't sit on a hard chair. I could suggest a 'secretarial chair' as shown here.

 

 "Padding on the chair" is also very important for the 'extra cushioning' for your back and lower extremities.

7) As often as you can, stretch your fingers & get those 'tight finger' muscles moving again.

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 I truly think that this tutorial essay covers the many important aspects of being able to sit for many hours. Again, please get up & EXERCISE.

What is a "BENCH-PEG" - (9 photos)

 Long before the fantastic "GRS" clamping device came into existence, we and many other gemstone setters who were resigned to a wooden block that had a semi-circle carved out (as seen below).

 The purpose of this 'specially created peg' had one use and that was to simply have the ring-clamp held against it and that was to be made specifically for Diamond Setting.

 Luckily, I still have two of these wooden "Bench Pegs" (circa 1965) in my collection. One of the better uses, is while the setter is doing their work, there will be little holes cut out to contain any gemstones instead of being dropped into your bench.

 All of the holes and other added features are being shown in these photos.

 When the peg is into the 'bench opening' some stones might get stuck or lost. I will then apply a layer of wax to seal that separation of peg to the bench.

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  WHY  IS THERE A DEEP RIDGE ON THE LEFT SIDE of this bench-peg? 

 The answer is quite easy, as I'm Right-handed, my ring clamp that's held in my left hand will be nestled against this opening. 

 The ring, or it's claws can be secured against this opening. I always 'modify' many of my tools, as I make them especially for my 'on-the-spot' setting needs. 

 If I had a "GRS" metal clamp, I couldn't make such adjustments to any steel devise.

This is where my loose stones will be kept during the gemstone setting.

   You can observe where the wax-form that is being nestled against that bench-peg 'indentation'. 

  Even when I'm using my shellac stick, this 'opening' allows me to rest the thick wooden dowel against it.

On anything made of wood, it requires a constant application of varnish or even oil.

 I give my Bench-Peg a sliver of oil just to keep it looking in a clean 'pristine' condition. I even get rid of any metal shavings that might get stuck in the wood. 

 Just remember that this bench-peg is a very useful accessory to your 'working bench'. I always say that 'this is your friend, keep it clean'.

"High Speed Steel" or "Carbide" burs, which are the best & why? => (54 photos)

  There are many "W"s in this essay. Which, Where to use, When, Why, What for? I will attempt to answer each of these mini-topics in this essay. 

 During my 65 years at the bench, I found these answers myself and not from any book or 4-minute video. I have no diploma from any trade organization, (diplomas are only a piece of paper), as my 9 years of (fantastic & enjoyable) apprenticeship was 'my diploma'.

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 In my first photograph is my "High Speed Steel" 45-degree angle bur, not the72-degree angle as sometimes seen. This bur-angle relates to the exact shape of a diamond.

  This diagram shows exactly the angles of a diamond. Now compare them to the "High Speed Steel" bur, otherwise known as "HSS" tool.

 With these strong cutting burs the first thing you see is that the 'teeth' are wider apart and not grouped together. This makes the cutting 'very aggressive' in the metal of your choice.

    In this collection, the largest bur is 10mm and can be 3-4mm's in diameter for the smallest size.

  This box of burs contains many sizes. A Diamond Setter must have ALL THE AVAILABLE sizes at their immediate disposal. The costs of buying these burs can be expensive but these are the main tools of our profession.

 

 This photo shows how my bench is laid out. In the center lower tray is an additional metal tray where any of my stones will collect if they are inadvertently dropped. This metal tray has a 'raised edge' to capture any 'runaway' round stones.

 The two bur boxes are only for display purposes. I like to keep my 'bench drawer-tray' clean from extra burs packages & boxes.

 As you can see closely that some of the mid-to-large HSS burs have shiny surfaces. This will be discussed in great detail further in this tutorial essay.

 Here is a very expensive grouping of HSS burs. In my whole bur collection there could be in excess of $1,000.00 of burs just in these many boxes.

 As an example for you, I placed these extra-large cutting burs side-by-side, this is a 'very bad idea', why? The steel could touch each of the burs and damage both of the bur-teeth. Place a smaller bur in between, so this won't occur.

 These worn HSS burs need to be repaired for future usage.

 This is a great example of 'bur-separation', I heartily suggest that you use this as an example in keeping your burs safe. For a few minutes of re-arranging your burs this will save you mega-dollars, trust me!

  These two burs are slowly getting worn down, how can you tell? The edges of 'teeth are shiny' in appearance, this means that the cutting edges will not be good for much longer. WOOPS!

 These two burs are both HSS, but so different, how is this? The HSS bur on the LEFT is created at a 45degree angle. The bur on the RIGHT is machine-made at a 72degree angle. I NEVER BUY OR USE THE SHALLOWER ANGLE CUTTING BUR. No stones are designed with a shallow angle!

 Some Diamond or Gem-setters will use them for cutting bearings in claws, nothing else.

 I keep ALL OF MY HSS burs in sequential order at all times. I don't want to waste my time looking for one bur out of hundreds of burs in my many boxes of tools and burs.

Note to you and everyone, KEEP YOUR BURS CLEAN FROM EXCESS OF USED METAL. Your rotating bur cannot cut with residual metal remaining in between the teeth.

 Examine the size differences of these burs in this box. At one glance I know which size of bur is where. It gets very frustrating if these burs are all grouped together with no uniformity in sizes. If some burs need repairing, remove them from your 'usable burs'.

 I keep all very largest of burs in one sperate box, the mid-size in an other and finally the mini-sizes separate.

 Your investment of burs is so important I call them "MY CHILDREN", which they are!

   These packages of "156C" ("C" means Carbide) burs are not so expensive, but are very different in how they are used. You can observe how I maintain their order in a simple plastic tray. Their SQU numbers are written on each package for re-ordering their exact size & shape.

 As I don't use these burs too often, the sequential order of these burs is not that important. If they get worn down, "GOOD-BYE, BUR!"

 I need to keep my burs in order at all times, I hate to waste my time looking for one bur among so many.

 The 'white edges' are there because of my repairing processes that has taken place in an earlier time.

 These few burs are not to be used again until I repair them ASAP. They are now just useless pieces of steel.

  How to Repair (or) Recut the edges of these HSS burs.

 The only tool for recutting is a Separating Disk with a 3/4 inch diameter.

To make the cutting more easy to be seen, I 'mark' the edges with a felt, marking pen. Once the metal is 'touched' by the rotating disk, that ink will be removed. 

  There is no need to place this bur into any holding device, complete access is needed to rotate the bur as required. I use my finger tips to hold the bur, is that a good idea?

   Here is the 'painted bur' exposing the worn down edges of the teeth.

  All of the HSS burs are hand-shaped in a machine turning lathe, hence we will do the exact same shaping.

  There is no reason to recut further up towards the 'point of the bur'. The cutting area is primarily at the edge, understood?

 Here is the exact areas where the 'repairing' is now taking place. You can see where the rotating emery wheel is cutting into the steel bur.

 

 The softer "156C" steel bur does not require such important 'fixing'. The teeth are much closer together and no way can, or will the Emery Wheel do any sort of repairing. 

The cost of any Carbide steel is so minor that the cost of bur repairing is a waste of your precious time.

  I prepare the bearing cut with a round bur then my HSS bur won't 'run away'. This little drilling gives my bur a chance to prepare a seat with little cutting problems.

I attempted to set this round stone, but you can see that the claws are bent out of shape.

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 In this stone setting process, I will use a "156C" Carbide bur as the stone is so very small. "I want perfection at all times". The HSS burs are too aggressive in the cutting of these small claws.

 Here you can see on this 4mm size stone why HSS burs are are not warranted or required. Every claw needs to be carefully positioned, the "156C" bur is the best bur to use in these delicate settings.

 Even in this circular pendant, quality is paramount. The "156C" bur is all that is needed in uniformity of the claw setting.

 In setting these stones in the above setting, 'accuracy is the dominant factor'.

Here is the process in preparing to set any claw setting. There is no possible way the 72degree angle bur will be of no help to you. The 45degree is the 'best' bur to use.

The "RULE OF THIRDS" is a great formula in cutting bearings with your "HHS" or "156C" burs. (Please excuse my rough drawing). One third of the claw making the bearing on to the stone, another third into the metal and never exceed one third as the claw will be weakened.

 Some setters use a straight edge bur, who taught them how to set gemstones? In my apprenticeship years, I was taught the correct method. The Flat Sided bur cuts away all of the metal that is needed, 

This simple diagram explains the cutting process in great detail. The bur is simply cutting or removing metal that has the same angles as the stone.

  I used only a 156C bur in this detailed Gents ring. If I use a "HSS" bur, I could by error, cut too much of the claws prior to setting.

 Here is another sample of using a "156C" bur, detailed cutting is also so very paramount in this pendant.

 Even setting Oval stones the HSS bur is truly a 'life-saver', why is this? The angles of the stone match the angles of the bur.

 I found this out in my earlier days of learning setting, my teacher was wise enough to teach me this technique while he was learning his setting trade in Ireland, circa 1940's.

 

 Before the HSS is finally used, the best way is to carve a circle around the Oval setting, This will greatly assist in keeping the HSS from 'wondering off' and literally destroying the Bezel.

  

 After 7 hours of writing, I've finally finished this long essay. So many details have gone into it, it's been a mind-boggling writing & editing exercise. But you all are the recipients of my 65 years of Diamond & gemstone setting.

 I only hope and wish that the "Good L-rd" gives many more years to write these tutorial essays for you wherever you live. I still don't charge for my training and writing.

gerrylewy18@gmail.com